2006 Accord knock sensor code

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2006 Accord 4 cylinder recently got a CEL with code P0325 (Knock Sensor 1, Circuit Malfunction, Bank 1 or 1 Sensor). No driveability issues or obvious pinging. Research suggests most likely culprit being the sensor itself, so I changed it out this morning (I found the "method" for doing so without removing the intake manifold to be quite impossible, so I took it off and moved aside enough to access the sensor more easily). Cleared the codes, let it idle for a bit to make sure I'd put the car back together correctly, then during the test drive the first time I really got on the gas it came back immediately. Same code. Any thoughts?

jeff
 
No obvious problems with the wiring or the connectors. I've never had to touch any of this stuff.

My old Saab had a couple of problems over the years due to wire junctions going bad. Those were pretty well understood on that model so were easy to verify by the symptoms and straightforward to fix.

Any basic tests that can be done on the wires or sensor with a standard multimeter?

jeff
 
I had a knock sensor code years ago when replacing my 2001 Civic shocks, after I gave up and took it to a place that shall remain nameless to finish the job.
Apparently the air guns caused such vibration that it threw the code. I tried replacing the sensor, but was impossible (for me) in the place it was located.

Cleared the code with a cheap Actron, and it never came back.

Hope your's can go away also. Unsure of your fix at this point.
 
Cleared the code with a cheap Actron, and it never came back.

Hope your's can go away also. Unsure of your fix at this point.
Ha, I too have a cheap Actron and my first course of action with any CEL is to check it, clear it, and hope for the best 😁 It actually works a surprising percentage of times.

The "good" news on this is that the car seems to be running fine, and I learned that it's not too tough to remove the intake manifold. Could probably do it in half the time now.

jeff
 
Man that stinks put in all that labor, just to have it not be the fix. I'm sure you read all the troubleshooting and next culprit option seems to be wiring harness. Ugh.

Sorry for the adversity. At least no drivability issues. Best of luck.
 
Fortunately the part was only $15 and the job was pretty straightforward once I figured it out.

Yes the next troubleshooting steps seemed to involve an oscilloscope, which I do not have. Hoping to stumble across somebody else who's had a similar problem.

jeff
 
Fortunately the part was only $15 and the job was pretty straightforward once I figured it out.

Yes the next troubleshooting steps seemed to involve an oscilloscope, which I do not have. Hoping to stumble across somebody else who's had a similar problem.

jeff
The knock sensor lists for $153. If you only paid $15, you might have a counterfeit.
 
The knock sensor lists for $153. If you only paid $15, you might have a counterfeit.
Interesting. I have never had any problem with parts from random ebay sellers but you are correct this price is more in line with aftermarket parts, rather than OEM from the more traditional sources. Hondapartsnow wants $108. Need to check into that.

Next question - there some discussion of the wire or connector going bad, but the part does not seem to be available. I can't even find a part number for the 2.4l engine. A few DriveAccord threads suggest getting a new connector and pigtail (also from eBay or Amazon 3rd party) and replacing them too, requires some cutting and soldering which I can manage. Thoughts on that?

jeff
 
Possible counterfeit. If you don't want to fork over the $150 at the Honda dealer, atleast get a reputable aftermarket brand from Rock Auto (about $40)
 
Whoever does this type of job, buy OEM, and look at the wiring pigtail, apply grease in the pigtail, remember it lives in the valley of the shadow of death in those V spaces :cool:
 
I had a similar thing with my '92 Vigor. EBay K.S. that looked like Genuine Honda (even the stamping on the metal looked good).
So, I didn't think it was bad. I scoped it before installing, but it's pretty much a microphone, and I didn't have anything else to judge it by.

Spent next several years chasing the problem (and the 2nd KS went bad in the meantime) as if it were a lean condition. I became convinced it was the wire in the loom, and even had new ones made (but not installed).

Gave in, took it to my mechanic. Of course, they're following the service manual troubleshooting flowchart, going through all the steps. I even gave them a junkyard ECM I had tried. Their 'scope showed my KS wasn't putting out enough amplititude. They bought a new one (like low $300) and fixed it, so bought another to replace the other KS, and fixed that one (but that one had obvious physical damage).

I never replaced the whips, mainly because I still saw a signal coming to the ECU on both lines. But, Google says whip replacement, particularly with another car brand, is common.

BTW, a few years before this I had a KS code, took out the EGR valve, cleaned the passage from the EGR into the intake manifold, and that fixed the code. The passage was completely clogged with spongy carbon deposits, at the I.M. I know they redesigned the passage with their V6 to catch and condense more stuff in a labrinth. I'd imagine the I4 was also redesigned. You could look into what you need to remove to check/clean the EGR passage and try that first.
 
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Fortunately the part was only $15 and the job was pretty straightforward once I figured it out.
Yeah as has already been noted there is no such thing as a knock sensor for $15. I've only had to replace them on my BMW (and that took four of them) and they were somewhere around $80 each as well.
 
I had a similar thing with my '92 Vigor. EBay K.S. that looked like Genuine Honda (even the stamping on the metal looked good).
So, I didn't think it was bad. I scoped it before installing, but it's pretty much a microphone, and I didn't have anything else to judge it by.

Spent next several years chasing the problem (and the 2nd KS went bad in the meantime) as if it were a lean condition. I became convinced it was the wire in the loom, and even had new ones made (but not installed).

Gave in, took it to my mechanic. Of course, they're following the service manual troubleshooting flowchart, going through all the steps. I even gave them a junkyard ECM I had tried. Their 'scope showed my KS wasn't putting out enough amplititude. They bought a new one (like low $300) and fixed it, so bought another to replace the other KS, and fixed that one (but that one had obvious physical damage).

I never replaced the whips, mainly because I still saw a signal coming to the ECU on both lines. But, Google says whip replacement, particularly with another car brand, is common.

BTW, a few years before this I had a KS code, took out the EGR valve, cleaned the passage from the EGR into the intake manifold, and that fixed the code. The passage was completely clogged with spongy carbon deposits, at the I.M. I know they redesigned the passage with their V6 to catch and condense more stuff in a labrinth. I'd imagine the I4 was also redesigned. You could look into what you need to remove to check/clean the EGR passage and try that first.
Good catch on the EGR passages. many uses an old speedo cable on an electric drill, after overnight soak. removes the carbon really well
 
Next question - there some discussion of the wire or connector going bad, but the part does not seem to be available. I can't even find a part number for the 2.4l engine. A few DriveAccord threads suggest getting a new connector and pigtail (also from eBay or Amazon 3rd party) and replacing them too, requires some cutting and soldering which I can manage. Thoughts on that?

jeff
Honda does not sell a replacement sub-harness for the K24. But they do have one for the J35. I have never done a K24 knock sensor, but if the connector is the same, may be you can buy the V6 one ($12) and solder the wires into the existing connection?
 
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