2006 6L PSD breakin ?

[Don Stefanik]

For those that have the Ford PSD 6L engine, I was wondering how many Miles/KM did you put on it before you switched over to a synthetic?
I know a few of my customers ran 10,000km and some changed at 5000km. One ran 20,000km before changing and he seemed to think this was the best. He is on his 4th PSD. First 2 were the 7.3. Likes the 6 better.
I'm hoping to pick my new PSD up in th next day or two as I'm going to Toronto on Thursday and pulling my new Legend 6X12 trailer should be great fun compaered to my older Ranger 4L and 5X10 Roadmaster.

 

[mettech]

I have a '05 PSD... Ran 4800 miles before first OC.. I will change to syn at the 15K mark.. You can't go wrong using MC oil in it.

 

[bmwtechguy]

I have always heard that with the diesel engines you should wait until at least 5k miles, and preferably 10k miles, if you have the patience. I have no personal experience to back that up, but have heard/read the 10k mile "rule" over the years.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

I had my oil analyzed at approximately 10K miles and all of my wear metals were at the universal averages of other 6.0's. An oil analysis will let you know if you're engine is at the "break in" point.

 

[Don Stefanik]

I'll be picking up my new truck tomorrow and heading to the AMSOIL Toronto ware house with my new Legend 6X12 all Alluminun trailer in tow. Not really a workout for her but better than nothing I guess.
From what I hear when talking to others looks like I need to run at least a couple of petroleum changes threw her first. Then change to synthetic.
I haven't decided whether to run the AMSOIL Series 3000 5W30 or try the AMSOIL SAE 30/10W30 oil in her.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Don Stefanik:
I'll be picking up my new truck tomorrow and heading to the AMSOIL Toronto ware house with my new Legend 6X12 all Alluminun trailer in tow. Not really a workout for her but better than nothing I guess.
From what I hear when talking to others looks like I need to run at least a couple of petroleum changes threw her first. Then change to synthetic.
I haven't decided whether to run the AMSOIL Series 3000 5W30 or try the AMSOIL SAE 30/10W30 oil in her.

---

It states in the owners manual that you are supposed to have 500 on the odometer before towing with the 6.0 PSD. You are also supposed to vary your speed for the first 500 miles.

 

[Don Stefanik]

My new trailer is only a 6X12 tandem axle one.
Last night I only had 2000lb load in it so I'm pretty sure I didn't hurt anything . Besdies I had to keep looking in the mirror to see if I even had the trailer hooked on!!!
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!
I like this new PS diesel.

 

[The Critic]

Don,
I’d do a change at 5000KM and 10000KM with the oil of your choice. Its generally a good idea to do short, 5-8000KM drains during the initial 15000KM since wear metals will be high due to wear-in.

It won’t hurt to use synthetic at this time, but it’s simply a waste of money at such short intervals. However, the Esso XD3 0w30 is only 4CDN/L, and it’s a full syn, so you may want to consider using that for those oil changes at the 5000KM and 10000KM mark before switching to longer drains with Amsoil at the 15000KM mark.

It’s always wise IMO to wait 15000 KM before doing longer drains.

Mike

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

FoMoCo puts in 10w30 Motorcraft oil from the factory in the 6.0 PSD and by the time you put some miles on the oil it will have sheared down to a 20 weight.

The block is sand casted and you will have tons of crap in your engine from the casting process. I would HIGHLY recommend dumping the factory fill ASAP and putting in a quality dino 15W40 and running it for a shorter interval than normal, and then dumping that out of the crankcase.

I would refill with dino 15W40 once again, but would run it for at least 5000 miles. At that point, get a UOA done to see what the wear metals look like. You will probably be able to fill the crankcase with a syn oil at this point.

I have an '04 6.0 PSD and the power 84,000 miles later still surprises me.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

Don-
Run the AMSOIL HDD. Use oil analysis. Put on a Bypass Filter.

 

[Don Stefanik]

I've been running the HDD in all our farm equipment since it came out. 800plus hrs 3 years on the 4wheel drive instead of every 100hrs. Combine 550 hrs 2 years and on my Ranger 20,000km.
I also use it in all the Honda transfer pumps and my JD425 lawn tractor.
It is a fabulous oil to say the least.
SO when the time comes I will probably run the HDD in my PS as well. Though I was contemplating using the SAE30 10W30 AMSOIL Diesel oil. NAh....I'll stick with the best....HDD it is.
Thanks guys.

 

[Mike_dup1]

For specific installations,
see the AMSOIL Product
Selection Guide
New Engines
Run a new engine 1,000 to 6,000
miles, or until oil consumption stabilizes
at an acceptable level, before
installing AMSOIL synthetic diesel
oils to purge the engine of break-in
wear metals.

 

[Albin]

Here's my plan for my new 6.0 PSD:

- 200 miles: change the filter
- 500 miles: change the filter
- 1000 miles: change the oil and the filter, install Fumoto valve, UOA
- 5000 miles & every 5K thereafter: change the oil, UOA

I already have an Amsoil bypass filter mount (I'm a dealer), so I'll eventually install one of those along with a switch to syn when I'm comfortable with a) the engine and b) pretty sure I won't violate or void the warranty.

My logic for the multiple early filter changes comes from the guys with coolant filters in the 6.0 that report clogged coolant filters as early as 200 miles.

Coolant filters are usually 30 micron. Oil filters for the 6.0 are 17 microns. Therefore, I think that the oil filter would clog up pretty fast. I see no reason that the sand coming out of the casting process would be any different (i.e. less) for the oil passages as they are for the coolant passages.

Comments?

Al

 

[The Critic]

Jeez...I hope you know that an oil filter for a 6L PSD is $10-$15 (even the lower-end ones). Plus, what you're planning to do is totally unnecessary...do your oil change at 1000, again at 5K, then every 5K thereafter.

 

[Albin]

$13 with S&H from Fleetfilter.com. Already ordered 6 of them.

I provided my logic and rationale for my plan. Please provide yours for the comment "...totally unnecessary....".

Al

 

[The Critic]

Any "debris" generated by a modern engine during break-in will be caught by the oil filter...there aren't any huge "chunks" of metal floating around in modern engines when they break-in.

I doubt that your frequent oil changes during break-in will significantly increase the lifespan of your engine...if I'm incorrect, please feel free to provide evidence how frequent oil changes in a NEW 6LPSD will increase its life.

 

[Albin]

I never said evidence, I said "logic and rationale". Something you haven't provided to back up your assertion. Furthermore, I never said the word "chunks of metal", so I don't know who you are quoting, but it's not me.

Coolant filter users report that the clogged coolant filters contain a "sand-like" material in their filters. Some example links are provided below.

http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=2003Drivetrain1&Number=2692166&Forum=f48&Words=%22coolant%20filter%22&Searchpage=0&Limit=100&Main=2692166&Search= true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post2692166

http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=2003Drivetrain1&Number=2637672&Forum=f48&Words=%22coolant%20filter%22&Searchpage=0&Limit=100&Main=2637672&Search= true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=1&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post2637672

http://www.fleetguard.com/fleet/pdf...SSION=NO#search='benefits of coolant filters'

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=324

Apparently, the block is cast in sand during it's manufacture. The sand leaches out over time and, for coolant systems, can wear on the pumps and seals, hence the addition of a coolant filter. CF's are widely used in heavy trucking industry, they're now starting to be used in the light trucks such as the PSD's etc.

Clogged 30 micron coolant filters in as little as 200 miles, that's what being reported by users of coolant filters on Ford 6.0 PSD's.

Assuming the block is the same for the oil passages as it is for the coolant passages; big assumption which is why I asked buy I don't see why it would be any different, means that a 17 micron oil filter will clog up faster with the sand-like particles, than a 30 micron coolant filter +/-.

Since the oil filter on the 6.0 PSD is open when removed, please tell us how many you've removed and what they looked like and what mileage. If you know the details of how International casts their engines, please provide details.

If you haven't, well, then I'll be happy to post pics of the first filter I remove mine at 200 miles.

In any event, you've made a statement, please back it up.

Al

 

[The Critic]

I don't own a 6L PSD, period.

I don't have any solid evidence to prove anything...I don't have access to such info.

For what my statements are worth, what I meant to say is that of the 1% of users (like you) who demand the absolute best (for whatever reason), go right ahead and do it. It’s your money.

If it were my truck, I wouldn't worry about it. Why? 99% of the 6L PSD owners don't install coolant filters, nor do they do their first oil/filter change at 200 miles, or even 1000 miles, and their engines still last a long time. I don't disagree that there may be some sand in the filters with that setup, and may clog your coolant filter, but the fact is that it clearly isn’t mandatory to do what you plan to do or else it’d either be recommended by Ford or every diesel mechanic/Ford Dealer/PSD Enthusiast….

BTW…even though this is an uneducated guess…I still think that the oiling system would have a lot less “sand” than the cooling system…if the engine parts are moving at thousands of RPMs per minute, such large particles would be very abrasive and I’d assume that the OEM would have ensure that there wasn’t any “sand” that would be allowed to mix in with the oil and clog up the FF filter.

 

[mettech_2001]

1st oil and filter change on my '05 6.0L PSD was at ....4890 miles. Changed the oil with MC 15w40 and a MC filter.
Next oil change was at the 9920 mile marker. I now run Schaeffers 9000 5W-40 in it. Truck runs great. No smoke, no oil usage.

BTW, I started working the truck with 530 miles on the odm. I pulled a 13-14K lbs 5th wheel for about 3K miles on the factory oil. I ran the truck hard, very hard (lots of hills and city driving).

I should have the first 5K UOA completed around the Feb/March time frame. It might indicate if any damage was done to the PSD by not changing the oil early during the break-in period. I'm betting $50K that it's OK. That's the sticker price for it...LOL

IMHO, the truck is made for working, not nursing.

 

[JR]

Personally I would run it 500 miles to get all the manufacturing crud out of the engine and then go ahead and dump in syn oil of choose. The designer of the D-Max in there own engine ship them from the factory with syn in them. I have a kubota RTV-900R with 675 hours on it. I bought it as a demo with 6.8 hours on it. The dealer dropped it off and within an hour I had dropped the filter and oil and installed a kubota oem filter and dumped in Mobil 1 5W-40. Later the dealer asked me what I was using as the oil. I told him that I have used Mobil 1 T&S 5W-40 for ever oil change. He was like it uses oil now doesn't it. I was like what. He said syn oil is to slick it will glaze the cylinders. I was like it has now 380 hours on it and hasn't used a drop. And at 675 still hasn't.