LOL I wont knock anybodys choice of oil
2005 Yukon first oil change
- Thread starter HaroldCallahan
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Durablend or other good synthetic blend and taking the GM oil life monitor (OLM) up to 50% should be ok. Since you tow, and like Valvoline, I don't think the Maxlife Full Syn is all hype. You might want to check it out, but if your into short oci's the Durablend is probably a better choice.
I use Castrol Syntec Blend 5w-30 in my Envoy (4.2l DOHC) and wait until the OLM goes to 50%
In my case, it might be a little overkill. But I definately couldnt let the OLM go to 0%, I think I would be too nervous..lol
In my case, it might be a little overkill. But I definately couldnt let the OLM go to 0%, I think I would be too nervous..lol
Maybe the full synthetic would be good. I am not committed to just valvoline. Part of reason for not thinking full synthetic was the shorter intervals that I dont mind, and the fact that I dont want to leave the oil in there for too long of a period of time either. There could be 5 months between changes even at 2500, since some times there will only be about 500 a month on the truck. Those low mileage months would also be mostly short trips. The months with a lot of miles would likely include longer trips, often with the trailer in the mountains.
The 2500 seemed like a simple way to ensure without too much thinking that the truck got a timely oil change regardless of whether the driving was mostly short trips over a long period of time, or include more heavily loaded longer trips.
Also, I am a bit hesitant on the full synthetic for two reasons. I have heard and read from numerous sources that a new engine should not be broken in on full synthetic. Some have even stated to wait till 10,000 miles before going to synthetic. Also the mobil synthetic did not seem good for my ranger. The engine got a knocking sound at idle, I took that synthetic out and refilled with conventional.
The theory that changing oil too often could be worse rather than better is an interesting idea. I never thought that there would be need for the oil to break in. I just figured the fresher the oil the better it would be.
So, I just thought that maybe the synthetic blend with shorter intervals would solve all the issues - without having to think too much. I dont want to constantly change the intervals - I would just like a simple fixed mileage interval.
Now I know that there is debate about the time rather than the mileage interval as well. Like if one was to only drive 3000 miles a year, would it be OK to only change oil once a year ???
This discussion is making me wonder if the initial intervals that I though of were a bit aggressive. But on the other hand it might take a few months to put 750 miles on this vehicle.
This can certainly get complicated.
The 2500 seemed like a simple way to ensure without too much thinking that the truck got a timely oil change regardless of whether the driving was mostly short trips over a long period of time, or include more heavily loaded longer trips.
Also, I am a bit hesitant on the full synthetic for two reasons. I have heard and read from numerous sources that a new engine should not be broken in on full synthetic. Some have even stated to wait till 10,000 miles before going to synthetic. Also the mobil synthetic did not seem good for my ranger. The engine got a knocking sound at idle, I took that synthetic out and refilled with conventional.
The theory that changing oil too often could be worse rather than better is an interesting idea. I never thought that there would be need for the oil to break in. I just figured the fresher the oil the better it would be.
So, I just thought that maybe the synthetic blend with shorter intervals would solve all the issues - without having to think too much. I dont want to constantly change the intervals - I would just like a simple fixed mileage interval.
Now I know that there is debate about the time rather than the mileage interval as well. Like if one was to only drive 3000 miles a year, would it be OK to only change oil once a year ???
This discussion is making me wonder if the initial intervals that I though of were a bit aggressive. But on the other hand it might take a few months to put 750 miles on this vehicle.
This can certainly get complicated.
Yeah I really dig the OCI plan for your new Yukon. My parents have a 2004 Black Yukon Denali, and while they definately dont follow those good OCI you are setting up for break-in, I LOVE that truck. It actually was a toss up when I bought my 02 Envoy SLT because there was a 2003 or 2002 Yukon Denali on the lot for about $8k more, but it had lots of miles.
Anyways, I agree with what everybody else has said... you are gonna love that Yukon!
Anyways, I agree with what everybody else has said... you are gonna love that Yukon!
Harold,
There are numerous manufacturers that fill their cars with synthetics straight from the factory. Corvettes,Porshes,and Vipers just to name a few come from the factory with synthetics. If you want to switch to a synthetic right now it won't hurt the break in.
I agree to stick with MC or Havoline/Chevron and skip the Durablend. But short changing at 2500 is overkill, but will give the owner peace of mind, especially during the first 50K or so until that copper comes down. Dino oil is cheap...still.
Harold, Please do perform a UOA or two and post them here. Thanks!
One more vote for Havoline or Motorcraft 5w30. No need to drop $5/qt. when these oils, at reasonable intervals, will protect your engine just fine.
Patman
Staff member
Yep, my Corvette came factory filled with synthetic, and it didn't hurt the break in, since my engine uses no oil at all (not a noticeable amount anyhow)
The owner manual also states that the oil must meet GM 6094M.
I checked and both Valvoline conventional and durablend do meet the spec.
I am wondering about the other suggestions, if they meet this spec.
For the dino oils - Chevron/Havoline, Motorcraft, MC/Conoco Phillips, Pennzoil and Wal*Mart Supertech. Do they all meet GM 6094M ???
For the synthetic blends - Castrol Syntec Blend and Motorcraft. Do they both meet GM 6094M ???
I might get to do the 500 mile change soon. The Yukon might get about 20 miles on it today. That would put it at 495 - that would be close enough.
I am rethinking the intervals a little bit. Basically doubling the interval the first few times.
First at 500 miles, then at 1000 miles, then at 3000 miles.
Then at 3000 mile intervals thereafter. One concern on the 3000 mile interval. If there were 6 or 7 consecutive sub 500 mile months, that would put the time interval at 6 months or more. Is that a problem ???
I am going to look closer at the synthetic and synthetic blend oils.
I checked and both Valvoline conventional and durablend do meet the spec.
I am wondering about the other suggestions, if they meet this spec.
For the dino oils - Chevron/Havoline, Motorcraft, MC/Conoco Phillips, Pennzoil and Wal*Mart Supertech. Do they all meet GM 6094M ???
For the synthetic blends - Castrol Syntec Blend and Motorcraft. Do they both meet GM 6094M ???
I might get to do the 500 mile change soon. The Yukon might get about 20 miles on it today. That would put it at 495 - that would be close enough.
I am rethinking the intervals a little bit. Basically doubling the interval the first few times.
First at 500 miles, then at 1000 miles, then at 3000 miles.
Then at 3000 mile intervals thereafter. One concern on the 3000 mile interval. If there were 6 or 7 consecutive sub 500 mile months, that would put the time interval at 6 months or more. Is that a problem ???
I am going to look closer at the synthetic and synthetic blend oils.
The GM 6094M spec for cold temperature pumpability was intended to bridge the gap during the delay of the GF-3 to GF-4 transition. GF-4 5W-30 oils meet this spec along with the majority of GF-3's. Should not be a major concern for any GM owner.
Stainless steel top ring in all the new GM 5.3L engines?
Is the SS ring identified with a new engine code?
Stainless steel top ring in all the new GM 5.3L engines?
Is the SS ring identified with a new engine code?
Dont know. Guys on other forum dont know either. I may call GM this week, but often it is difficult as in anything else to actually find anybody that REALLY knows.
Guys on other forum suggestion is to assume that it is stainless steel rings since it is flex fuel. Use dino till at least 10,000 miles.
I think that is what I will do, use valvoline 5w/30 with 2500 to 3000 interval. Just got done with first change at 501 miles, used valvoline and GM PF46 filter.
After 10K may switch to synthetic and probably stick with the 2500 to 3000 interval.
Next I need to decide when to drain and replace the fluids in the transmission, transfer and differentials. Any suggestions on that ???
Guys on other forum suggestion is to assume that it is stainless steel rings since it is flex fuel. Use dino till at least 10,000 miles.
I think that is what I will do, use valvoline 5w/30 with 2500 to 3000 interval. Just got done with first change at 501 miles, used valvoline and GM PF46 filter.
After 10K may switch to synthetic and probably stick with the 2500 to 3000 interval.
Next I need to decide when to drain and replace the fluids in the transmission, transfer and differentials. Any suggestions on that ???
On a Suburban forum, I ran across one possibility for the 5.3 concerning synthetic and break-in. This is a flex fuel engine in the Yukon.
Here is the quote from another forum, when asked about the 5.3 and when to change to synthetic.
"Some of the new engines now use a stainless steel top ring to make them compatible with propane and natural gas. The ss ring will not seat by design for 10K miles or more, as we confirmed from the engineers at the Tonawanda assy plant. If the ring is not stainless, then the break in period is much sooner.
So for sure late 454's and 496's will have the ss top ring. Guess is any marine motor or any alternate fuel (Ethanol, high Methanol) engine will as well."
Here is the quote from another forum, when asked about the 5.3 and when to change to synthetic.
"Some of the new engines now use a stainless steel top ring to make them compatible with propane and natural gas. The ss ring will not seat by design for 10K miles or more, as we confirmed from the engineers at the Tonawanda assy plant. If the ring is not stainless, then the break in period is much sooner.
So for sure late 454's and 496's will have the ss top ring. Guess is any marine motor or any alternate fuel (Ethanol, high Methanol) engine will as well."
One thing with Valvoline, and all other oils for that matter, is that with the new GF-4 formula, there is not much info out yet to make a real determination as to how good/bad Valvoline is. It is not so much as to how good bad it is any way, more bang for the buck. Many feel that for the cost of Valvoline, there are other oils out there that are better for the same or less price.
For the amount of time you put the miles on the vehicle over the long period of time, there seems to be a split, some say go just by mileage, some say time and mileage, some say do a used oil analysis.
My wifes Hyundai Tucson is in a similar situation as yours. Minimal around town driving with an occasional long trip. My plan is an initial oil change at 1000 miles, Dealer oil change @ 3500 and 7000 miles (free from the dealer using Mobil Drive Clean) and then @ 10,000, go with Valvoline DuraBlend (free from e-bay) and a 5,000 mile OCI, and I will probably do a UOA on the Valvoline just to make sure it is still within spec. With this, I will probably be changing the oil every 5-7 months, and I am not worried about the time frame.
For the amount of time you put the miles on the vehicle over the long period of time, there seems to be a split, some say go just by mileage, some say time and mileage, some say do a used oil analysis.
My wifes Hyundai Tucson is in a similar situation as yours. Minimal around town driving with an occasional long trip. My plan is an initial oil change at 1000 miles, Dealer oil change @ 3500 and 7000 miles (free from the dealer using Mobil Drive Clean) and then @ 10,000, go with Valvoline DuraBlend (free from e-bay) and a 5,000 mile OCI, and I will probably do a UOA on the Valvoline just to make sure it is still within spec. With this, I will probably be changing the oil every 5-7 months, and I am not worried about the time frame.
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