2005 Honda Odyssey repeated oil leaks/consumption

[Drew7a]

Update: I put the VCM muzzler on; changed the PCV valve; had the oil control rings overnight soaked...
2500 miles later - oil full - haven’t had to add any oil at all.

Glad things are working.

Which flavor of the VCM muzzler did you use?

Also did you use kreen for the piston soak?

 

[Bill7]

I have an `06 Ody EXL, 168,000. Just did a valve adj. for 1st time, under valve cover and on heads looks like sludge and crap, even though I maintained it extremely well. Mine also sees lots of short trips. I am just hoping to get 5 more years out of it. Fingers crossed. Mine uses about 2-3 quarts of oil in a 5000 miles OCI. Using synthetic. I bet my engine would be dead if I used conventional and followed the Maintenance Light.

Hi zfasts03,

I have two 2006 Ody EX-L's and two 2007 Ody EX-L's.
You mentioned in your message above that you had sludge and crap under the valve cover and on the heads.
Please share your oil change interval in miles/months, and how many years you did that maintenance.
Just trying to determine if I should shorten my OCI. Thanks.

 

[Bill7]

The PCV valve is a big issue with these but the valve cover it is in can also be part of the problem. This front valve cover (looking at it from the front of the car) has a plate with a bunch of small holes in it, this is where the vapors travel to the PCV, these holes get clogged effectively making the PCV inop.
It can be cleaned using carb and parts cleaner letting it soak overnight.

This is what you may find, the first pic is the front with the PCV the second is the rear with the fresh air inlet, the engine needs free flowing air through the crankcase to remove the vapors through the PCV properly, if either is blocked its a problem.

View attachment 33101

View attachment 33102

The other issue you may or may not find is an extra screen in the oil filter pad. Some of the 05 had both some not, the VCM engine usually only has one at the spool valve but some got through with both, this one did.

View attachment 33103

Changing this is no problem 3x 10mm head bolts IIRC and you can get at it through the pass side wheel well with the wheel removed, about 20 min.

After all that I would put a can of Berrymans Chemtool in the oil in a cold engine and run it for 15 min not more at idle only then change the oil and filter. I would then run 16oz of Kreen in the new oil and 16oz in the fuel, run it for 1K keeping an eye on the oil then change it and the filter.
You can either run Kreen again or try it without but I would add a UV dye to the oil to pin point any leaks with a UV light, the stuff from GM is very good, it and the light are available from Amazon and other sources for cheap.

@Trav - To clean up the engine varnish/sludge in these 2005 to 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L's, which of the following would you use if it were your vehicle:

[1] HPL Engine Cleaner, followed by HPL PCMO.
[2] Liquid Moli Engine Flush.
[3] Berrymans Chemtool.
[4] Kreen

Also, instead of the #1 to #4 above,
would just using SuperTech Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 oil with 4k/6 months OCI do any cleaning all by itself?

Thanks

 

[zfasts03]

Hi zfasts03,

I have two 2006 Ody EX-L's and two 2007 Ody EX-L's.
You mentioned in your message above that you had sludge and crap under the valve cover and on the heads.
Please share your oil change interval in miles/months, and how many years you did that maintenance.
Just trying to determine if I should shorten my OCI. Thanks.

My `06 was purchased new my me. Did all oil changes myself. Oil change intervals where between 4000-8000 miles, 2-3 oil changes per year. Almost always changed the filter with the oil change. Also PCV valve was changed at 25-45,000 miles intervals.

My issues are a result of excessive short tripping, in combination with a design of VCM and inadequate PVC. Also I commonly saw moisture under the fill cap in the winter months.

All changes where with many different brands of quality full synthetic oils. Sometimes, 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30.

My brother in law had the same van also bought new and did his own maintenance. His was spotless under the oil fill cap on a diet of 5w-20 Mobil 1 extended performance using the OLM. His commutes consisted of much longer drives. He parted with the van with 180,000 miles on it due to cylinder misfires that he couldn't resolve.

I still have mine with 201,000. Runs great, just looks like crap under the covers. I did my valve adj. at 168,000. My brother in law, never did the valve adj. That might have been his problem.

 

[Bill7]

My `06 was purchased new my me. Did all oil changes myself. Oil change intervals where between 4000-8000 miles, 2-3 oil changes per year. Almost always changed the filter with the oil change. Also PCV valve was changed at 25-45,000 miles intervals.

My issues are a result of excessive short tripping, in combination with a design of VCM and inadequate PVC. Also I commonly saw moisture under the fill cap in the winter months.

All changes where with many different brands of quality full synthetic oils. Sometimes, 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30.

My brother in law had the same van also bought new and did his own maintenance. His was spotless under the oil fill cap on a diet of 5w-20 Mobil 1 extended performance using the OLM. His commutes consisted of much longer drives. He parted with the van with 180,000 miles on it due to cylinder misfires that he couldn't resolve.

I still have mine with 201,000. Runs great, just looks like crap under the covers. I did my valve adj. at 168,000. My brother in law, never did the valve adj. That might have been his problem.

Thanks zfast03. Knowing what you know now, what mainenance would you recommend to totally avoid all sludge and varnish in these engines, especially ones that are short trippers (3 out of 4 of my 2006/2007 ody's are short trippers).

 

[zfasts03]

Thanks zfast03. Knowing what you know now, what mainenance would you recommend to totally avoid all sludge and varnish in these engines, especially ones that are short trippers (3 out of 4 of my 2006/2007 ody's are short trippers).

We'll definitely under 5000 miles, with a full syn. Maybe even shorter interval in the winter with the short tripping.
Peek in the oil fill hole occasionally with a flashlight and monitor for early signs of varnish and sludge.

Also the shut down of the 3 rear cylinders causes the front to get very hot and oxidize the oil. My oil would frequently look spent and feel like a dryish residue on the rag, when wiping out the oil drain pan.

The OLM does not reduce/adjust OCI adequately enough for short trips in the cold. This engine just trashes the oil. Also my oil consumption rises after about 2000-3000 miles.

With 201,000 miles I burn about 2 quarts through a 5000 miles OCI. Currently running Mobil 1 0w-20 EP. Next Mobil 0w-30 AFE is going in.

I have many synthetics in this engine. Redline 5w-20 to try to clean things up. Amsoil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Napa, 1x Syn. Blend Castrol. I now just kinda follow sales, clearances, rebates, etc. with this car.

The valve adj. at 168,000 miles was a nice improvement to running quieter and smoother. I never really could tell a difference on running one oil or another.

I did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler, etc. at 95,000 and again at 195,000. Not doing it again (I hope). Doing spark plugs 1 more time this summer.

 

[Bill7]

We'll definitely under 5000 miles, with a full syn. Maybe even shorter interval in the winter with the short tripping.
Peek in the oil fill hole occasionally with a flashlight and monitor for early signs of varnish and sludge.

Also the shut down of the 3 rear cylinders causes the front to get very hot and oxidize the oil. My oil would frequently look spent and feel like a dryish residue on the rag, when wiping out the oil drain pan.

The OLM does not reduce/adjust OCI adequately enough for short trips in the cold. This engine just trashes the oil. Also my oil consumption rises after about 2000-3000 miles.

With 201,000 miles I burn about 2 quarts through a 5000 miles OCI. Currently running Mobil 1 0w-20 EP. Next Mobil 0w-30 AFE is going in.

I have many synthetics in this engine. Redline 5w-20 to try to clean things up. Amsoil, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Napa, 1x Syn. Blend Castrol. I now just kinda follow sales, clearances, rebates, etc. with this car.

The valve adj. at 168,000 miles was a nice improvement to running quieter and smoother. I never really could tell a difference on running one oil or another.

I did the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, idler, etc. at 95,000 and again at 195,000. Not doing it again (I hope). Doing spark plugs 1 more time this summer.

zfasts03: Thanks for the info. Since I have the same engine as you in my 4 Honda Odysseys, I was just hoping to learn more about the oil consumption issues I may eventually face.

With new oil in your Odyssey (after an oil change), how many miles does it take the oil on the dipstick to turn dark brown or black? 1,000 or 2,000 or 3,000 or 4,000 or 5,000? Wonder if this could measure how bad the sludge is?

Also, do you attribute the oil consumption as being caused by the sludge/varnish buildup?

 

[zfasts03]

zfasts03: Thanks for the info. Since I have the same engine as you in my 4 Honda Odysseys, I was just hoping to learn more about the oil consumption issues I may eventually face.

With new oil in your Odyssey (after an oil change), how many miles does it take the oil on the dipstick to turn dark brown or black? 1,000 or 2,000 or 3,000 or 4,000 or 5,000? Wonder if this could measure how bad the sludge is?

Also, do you attribute the oil consumption as being caused by the sludge/varnish buildup?

The oil darkens about the same rate as other vehicles. Oil consumption amount I attribute to just general wear of the engine.