Did both of those. Passed a 45 min check at max pull from a 28 micron dual stage vacuum pump. Held another 45 min before introducing any Freon.
2005 Honda Odyssey A/C not very cold after compressor replacement
- Thread starter Hohn
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I'll check it tonight when I get home.
I saw no debris signature on pressure or vacuum ports, and there's a small manifold/elbow casting that has to be transferred from old compressor to new, allowing a pretty good look.
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Or the dessicant is before the high side port and is restricted showing low pressure there.
Please take a look at this video
Air seems cool but not quite cold. 60F on outside air with ambient around 77F. I’m recirculating it will dip to low 50s vent temp.
I’m going to leave it as is, I don’t want to ruin anything getting greedy and it does seem able to keep up with the heat. We’ll see more when it gets truly hot.
You have too much oil in the system. Low side is a little high and high side also seems a little high. At your temperature recirc off, I would expect low side to ride closer to 30-35 psi and high side 150-180 psi. Recirc on it should cycle off near 20 psi or some.
When you change a compressor you're supposed to "balance the compressor" which would be to remove the old compressor and dump all the oil out of it and measure that. Then only add that much plus maybe 0.5oz extra of new oil to the new compressor. Most oil stays in the system so you probably have about double the system capacity of oil
When you change a compressor you're supposed to "balance the compressor" which would be to remove the old compressor and dump all the oil out of it and measure that. Then only add that much plus maybe 0.5oz extra of new oil to the new compressor. Most oil stays in the system so you probably have about double the system capacity of oil
He did that - said it held vacuum for 45 minutes. Filled it by weight.
That said, those manifold gauge readings seem a bit high. Overcharged? Too much oil?
My personal experience suggest that's only the case if the compressor actually fails, which is rare. Normally it's just leaking too much refrigerant to be useful (shaft seal, etc.) and in that particular case it's probably not spewing metal into the system. I'd like someone who actually does a lot of automotive AC work to comment on that though.
It may be lower quality aftermarket parts.
It may be that it's 100 degrees outside and you are stuck in traffic.
It may be debris in the condenser (and/or bent fins).
It may be the orifice / expansion valve (expansion valves seem to be very trouble prone).
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To answer the vent temp question, because I too recharged our GM. It was blowing 55F and on really humid days I’d see almost no condensate at the rear right wheel and not much from the middle.
Checked the other 2 cars (2006 and 2007) and both were 41F and 43F. On YouTube I saw the same. Huge obvious puddles when humid.
I recall having or at least feeling such that I could not get accurate readings on the gauges for whatever reason. I just generally feel AC will not improve on its own, over time.
So after my effort nothing was worse, but nothing was better. We’re getting a new GM soon and I’ll measure the temps and observe if we see puddles under the car front and rear. The 2011 was like that new, and was no longer…I wonder if having a rear evap is the reason the system degraded. The other two cars do not have that.
Checked the other 2 cars (2006 and 2007) and both were 41F and 43F. On YouTube I saw the same. Huge obvious puddles when humid.
I recall having or at least feeling such that I could not get accurate readings on the gauges for whatever reason. I just generally feel AC will not improve on its own, over time.
So after my effort nothing was worse, but nothing was better. We’re getting a new GM soon and I’ll measure the temps and observe if we see puddles under the car front and rear. The 2011 was like that new, and was no longer…I wonder if having a rear evap is the reason the system degraded. The other two cars do not have that.
If the cabin aircfilter is old, replace it.
Anytime a system is apart it's a great idea to replace the orifice tube with screen and desicant dryer. It's standard practice by most refrigerant techs, and prevents the kind of problem you report.
Anytime a system is apart it's a great idea to replace the orifice tube with screen and desicant dryer. It's standard practice by most refrigerant techs, and prevents the kind of problem you report.
^^^^All of these posts are pointing to the cause of your under-performing A/C unit. Based upon the procedure you described in Post #8, I would estimate that you have closer to 11 ounces of PAG46 in the system instead of the prescribed 7 ounces.
For perspective, take a look at Post #20 in this previous BITOG A/C thread that shows the outlet temperature in a 2006 Odyssey that I repaired 14 months ago.
Totally the opposite here. See a few leaks but blown up compressors,locked up,scroll with a hole is much more common
Yeah, there’s too much oil in it almost certainly. I guess I need to decide if it’s worth it to yank it all down and try again. Probably so, since the SuperTech R123a is only $10 a can or so and it takes barely over 2 cans to fill.
How does one purge the oil? I have compressed air available, but what do do with it?
I’m not willing to do anything I can’t do from the topside. I’ve been having to spend every waking minute fixing SOMETHING way too much lately (replaced a kitchen faucet today) and I’m pretty much in full screw it mode.
But if I can rest a bit and develop a better attiude and can drain out some oil somewhat conveniently, I’d consider it.
Everything breaks differently in Apple Valley, CA.
The most important thing that can mess it all up, is the introduction of air into the system. And happens very easily if the hose that is connected to the refrigerant can is not bled real well.
I'm guessing the machines that cost crazy $ take care of all that. I've always wondered how those machines keep the oils specific to different vehicles separate. Or do they not?
I'm guessing the machines that cost crazy $ take care of all that. I've always wondered how those machines keep the oils specific to different vehicles separate. Or do they not?
I speak as an automotive mechanic that is currently a hvac and fire suppression technician for mobile mine equipment (dozers, excavators, haul trucks, etc)
The proper way to get the right amount of oil is to remove the compressor and txv(if equip, if it's an orifice tube system you'll be okay. Then flush the system with a flush gun and dedicated flush solution. Vacuum in the full system charge at that point through the high side, wait a minute or so for it to drain out of the hose the pull a vacuum over both sides until you have under 500 microns of pressure then leak test, vacuum, charge, etc.
Second best way is to remove the lines from the lowest point of the system.. typically this is the condenser and blow the excess out
Forewarning, this is not the proper way to do this...
what you can do that I heard from a friend of a friends cousins uncle is to first evacuate the system very fast, almost like you were venting through the yellow hose to a washer fluid jug DON'T VENT REFRIGERANT TO ATMOSPHERE, thats a big no-no for environmental and legal reasons. After you've recovered the refrigerant... measure the oil you've removed. Then undo your blue line from the gauge and put it into a washer fluid jug. Undo the red line from the gauge and blow (ideally nitrogen because it's a dry and inert gas. If not then blow) compressed air into the high side and keep doing that until you get out the extra oil... sometimes a slow "draft" of air works better and sometimes a full system pressure blast works better... either way i've heard it takes a alot of air.
After all of that pull a vacuum for atleast an hour. Ideally after that hour you change your vacuum pump oil since it's be saturated with too much moisture. Take your car for a drive to the store to get more refrigerant or a snack or something... idea here is to get under the hood hot to help boil off more moisture while the system is under a vacuum. When you get home, pull another vacuum for atleast an hour or more again then connect your refrigerant, purge your line and charge as normal.
The proper way to get the right amount of oil is to remove the compressor and txv(if equip, if it's an orifice tube system you'll be okay. Then flush the system with a flush gun and dedicated flush solution. Vacuum in the full system charge at that point through the high side, wait a minute or so for it to drain out of the hose the pull a vacuum over both sides until you have under 500 microns of pressure then leak test, vacuum, charge, etc.
Second best way is to remove the lines from the lowest point of the system.. typically this is the condenser and blow the excess out
Forewarning, this is not the proper way to do this...
what you can do that I heard from a friend of a friends cousins uncle is to first evacuate the system very fast, almost like you were venting through the yellow hose to a washer fluid jug DON'T VENT REFRIGERANT TO ATMOSPHERE, thats a big no-no for environmental and legal reasons. After you've recovered the refrigerant... measure the oil you've removed. Then undo your blue line from the gauge and put it into a washer fluid jug. Undo the red line from the gauge and blow (ideally nitrogen because it's a dry and inert gas. If not then blow) compressed air into the high side and keep doing that until you get out the extra oil... sometimes a slow "draft" of air works better and sometimes a full system pressure blast works better... either way i've heard it takes a alot of air.
After all of that pull a vacuum for atleast an hour. Ideally after that hour you change your vacuum pump oil since it's be saturated with too much moisture. Take your car for a drive to the store to get more refrigerant or a snack or something... idea here is to get under the hood hot to help boil off more moisture while the system is under a vacuum. When you get home, pull another vacuum for atleast an hour or more again then connect your refrigerant, purge your line and charge as normal.
My machine removes oil when it removes the refrigerant. Usually a couple of ounces. I would suck it out , refill, repeat to get the excess oil out.
