2005 Honda Odyssey A/C not very cold after compressor replacement

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Diesel Central, Indiana
I'm pretty handy, but heretofore I've always hired out HVAC work.

Alas, the $2800 estimate from the one local shop I trust got me pricing out the DiY option for the previous uncharted territory of A/C work. Since a new compressor kit, manifold gauges, and vacuum pump could all be had for $800, I decided to DiY it.


The compressor swap mostly went fine, other than the usual serpentine tensioner struggle on a 20 year old J35. Dang they run them tight.

However, since I replaced the compressor, the A/C just seems not very cold. During the peak heat of the day recently, after 30 minutes on recirculate, the main vents were still discharging at temps in the low 60s while the vehicle was in motion and airflow across the condenser was sufficient. When set to pull in outside air, the delta T i between ambient and vent temps is not even 20F. That seems pretty weak.


I feel like I did it all "right", very conscientiously ensuring the correct 7oz of PAG46 and 32oz of R134a were in the system. Low side pressures are between 40 and 50psi when it's set to maximum output (lowest temps setting, highest fan speed) in ambient temps in the mid 80F range. I don't recall what high side pressures were, but I want to say 130-150?

There's no evidence of abnormal cycling. The clutch is engaging perfectly and staying engaged. The temperatures across vents are pretty consistent, as is the airflow, so there's no evidence of anything awry there.


When I charged the system, it passed a 45 minute vacuum leakdown check and I pulled it down for another 45min with a pump rated to 28 microns before admitting any refrigerant.

The compressor was the only element of the system I replaced.


Did I do something wrong? Do I need to be patient and wait and see? My other vehicles have MUCH colder air conditioning, and before the compressor failure, it seemed quite a bit colder.

Best theory I can come up with is that the prior compressor failure actually generated debris in the refrigerant section and that this debris is now creating a low flow condition at the evaporator. I have no idea how I could check for this. I'm REALLY trying to avoid throwing a ton of money into a 20 year old van.

It's humbling to have to ask for advice on this, but I am quite out of my wheelhouse in doing A/C work.

What's a "normal" vent temperature? I can't get mine to go below 55F under any conditions seen in the last 24 hours, including in the cooler ambients of dusk.
 
If you have an obstruction from "debris" then that creates a low pressure area allowing liquid refrigerant to flash to gas. Hand over hand the piping to see if you have frost somewhere.
 
How well did the AC system perform before the old compressor stopped working? Did you replace the dryer? Replacing the dryer is highly recommended when the system is open to the atmosphere for any length of time. Also, the dryer's desiccant may be bad.
 
Good tip! No frost happening. Just lots of condensation.
Okay, then you may just be a touch low on refrigerant. Maybe add just an ounce at a time while monitoring and see if it heads in right direction. If not, recommend just taking it to a pro.
 
Whenever a compressor fails it almost always puts metal contaminants into the system. First place it goes is into the condenser.

It plugs the condenser and it can't condense the refrigerant when that happens.

If that's the case the entire system has to be opened up,flushed, expansion valves replaced etc. I assume it has a rear unit too.

If it does that is where your $2800 estimate comes from.

You have also over oiled the system if you added a full 7oz of oil on top of the oil that was still in the system.

Only replacing the compressor after a failure is like replacing an engine after it blew up and putting the old oil filter back in the new engine.
 
Whenever a compressor fails it almost always puts metal contaminants into the system. First place it goes is into the condenser.

It plugs the condenser and it can't condense the refrigerant when that happens.

If that's the case the entire system has to be opened up,flushed, expansion valves replaced etc. I assume it has a rear unit too.

If it does that is where your $2800 estimate comes from.

You have also over oiled the system if you added a full 7oz of oil on top of the oil that was still in the system.

Only replacing the compressor after a failure is like replacing an engine after it blew up and putting the old oil filter back in the new engine.
No, 7oz total. It came precharge with 3oz per the sticker, so I added 4oz. It does have the rear unit as well.

If you are correct that the system is compromised by debris, then I'm just going to have to live with it. I'm not putting $2800 into my 20 year old van to lower the vent temps another 10-20F.
 
No, 7oz total. It came precharge with 3oz per the sticker, so I added 4oz. It does have the rear unit as well.
There should be some remaining oil in the condenser as well, so you can be overoiled.

I think your best bet is to replace the condenser 1st and or try the expansion valve as well. Both operations should be not too expensive though the teardown could be exciting. Maybe a DIY flush is possible as well? I don't know what is entailed with a flush, but with the EV and condenser out at least blowing everything out with compressed air for a while would work.
 
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If the compressor failed catastrophically then the system is full of metal and you should have also swapped the condenser and at a minimum the desiccant pack. Could also have metal in the expansion valve and that will cause poor cooling. I also suspect you may have ended up with to much oil in the system. You added enough for the total system and when you swap the compressor you only need a few oz as the rest is still distributed throughout.

Don't feel bad I had a very similar experience and started going DIY on A/C repairs and its been an uphill learning curve for me. When I did the compressor on my CRV only the clutch had failed so I didn't have to worry about debris in the system.
 
If the compressor failed catastrophically then the system is full of metal and you should have also swapped the condenser and at a minimum the desiccant pack. Could also have metal in the expansion valve and that will cause poor cooling. I also suspect you may have ended up with to much oil in the system. You added enough for the total system and when you swap the compressor you only need a few oz as the rest is still distributed throughout.

Don't feel bad I had a very similar experience and started going DIY on A/C repairs and its been an uphill learning curve for me. When I did the compressor on my CRV only the clutch had failed so I didn't have to worry about debris in the system.
I have no evidence the compressor itself failed catastrophically-- just that the clutch did.
 
Given the ambient temperature, the high side pressure seems a bit low compared with what I see on other cars.

If there’s no debris in the system, I would add an ounce or two of Freon and see what that gets you.

With low pressure on the high side, I don’t think you have a flow obstruction.

What brand compressor did you use?
 
No, 7oz total. It came precharge with 3oz per the sticker, so I added 4oz. It does have the rear unit as well.

If you are correct that the system is compromised by debris, then I'm just going to have to live with it. I'm not putting $2800 into my 20 year old van to lower the vent temps another 10-20F.
If you continue to use the ac the new compressor will ingest the contaminants and it too will fail soon.

Then you will really have a mess with 2 compressor failures
 
If the compressor didn't fail only the clutch then there shouldn't be metal in the system. I've contemplated replacing my factory ac compressor with 341k since it or the clutch never failed and if it were to then it'd be an issue but it just keeps working fine. I think I'll wait for the clutch to go first.
 
I have no evidence the compressor itself failed catastrophically-- just that the clutch did.
I had the same thing happen on my 05 Scion, clutch wouldn't engage, most likely due to non-serviceable solenoid failure. Who knows, maybe they Odyssey uses the same compressor.

I did everything you did, but with less oil. I don't recall the pressures though, but I did run nitrogen through the system to absorb moisture from the dryer. I fortunately have a small tank and regulator.

Also I ran dye through it which revealed O-rings which were on their way out. Got an o-ring kit from Amazon.
 
Hook up the gauges and report back with your low and high side pressures.

If the pipes were visually clear when you performed the swap, it is less likely for the compressor failure to have been catastrophic.
 
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