So I changed my oil today using QS High Mileage 5 30 and a supertech filter. I also did a "drain and fill" on the transmission using the proper Valvoline Max Life Fluid and sucked out 1 quart from the dipstick. The drain and fill itself got about 3.5 quarts out. Does anyone know how much more is left to drain? I plan on maybe doing another "drain and fill" at my next oil change. Thanks
2004 Toyota Corolla Transmission Drain & Fill?
- Thread starter albertson
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7.7 quarts capacity. Did mine last summer and posted this thread on it:
Transmission flush and fill on a 2006 Corolla 94,400 miles
I just did a drain and fill yesterday on my 2006 Corolla with 94,400 miles, it still had the factory fill. It says right on the dipstick that there is no need to change the fluid. The original fluid came out a very dark red. Dark but not black and it has no burnt smell to it. The car shifted...
bobistheoilguy.com
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According to Toyota, you might damage your transmission since it is not Toyota Genuine T-IV fluid
. I doubt it, but I dunno.
No one's "preference" means anything, nor what you heard. What does Toyota say in the owner's manual ? Some vehicles you check hot with engine off, some hot with engine on, some can be checked cold (engine off) but the only right way is what Toyota says for this model.
3.5 qrts for a d/r. I have an 03' Matrix (same as a Corolla) and have done this 3x already. Castrol Import MV was my choice and for nearly 35k miles it's still running perfectly. Initially drop the pan, change filter and gasket, and clean magnets and reinstall. Then do 2 - 3 more just d/r with 500 between them. This will get out close to 90% or so of the old fluid. These 4 sp Aisins are pretty much bulletproof if you take care of them.
I'll take a 4 or 6 sp Aisin over ANY CVT.
I'll take a 4 or 6 sp Aisin over ANY CVT.
In that case I would drain from the drain bolt in the pan.
Maxlife in my 3 previous Corollas. Never a problem.
Maxlife in my 3 previous Corollas. Never a problem.
Our 2006 Corolla, which lived a hard life of teenage drivers, before being gifted to one of our children, got a simple D&F roughly every other oil change. I changed the oil on that car every 5,000 miles, using whatever 5W30 was on sale, so the D&F was every 10-15,000 miles.
The car was given to a needy family two years ago, with 240,000 miles on it, running and shifting perfectly. The paint was tired, headlights faded, and the wheel covers were long gone, but it ran perfectly. So, our D&F was enough to keep it running.
I used T-IV but Maxlife at the time claimed to meet T-IV and was the same viscosity. Newer Maxlife meets the Low Viscosity requirements, so, I don't see how it can meet the T-IV spec. T-IV is relatively cheap at the Toyota dealer (and I used to buy it by the case, as that's what I used in the Volvo transmissions that also required T-IV), and you're only buying 4 quarts at a time. I think I would stick with a JWS-3309/T-IV fluid, not a universal LV fluid.
The car was given to a needy family two years ago, with 240,000 miles on it, running and shifting perfectly. The paint was tired, headlights faded, and the wheel covers were long gone, but it ran perfectly. So, our D&F was enough to keep it running.
I used T-IV but Maxlife at the time claimed to meet T-IV and was the same viscosity. Newer Maxlife meets the Low Viscosity requirements, so, I don't see how it can meet the T-IV spec. T-IV is relatively cheap at the Toyota dealer (and I used to buy it by the case, as that's what I used in the Volvo transmissions that also required T-IV), and you're only buying 4 quarts at a time. I think I would stick with a JWS-3309/T-IV fluid, not a universal LV fluid.
It's best and proper to check it strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, whatever that may be. It should be in your owner's manual.
The "cold" mark on a transmission dipstick is only there to indicate a bare minimum so you can proceed to check it properly.
IIRC - it was hot, idling, level ground, in park for a fluid check. Hot is generally more actuate than cold, and it absolutely had to be idling.
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T-Iv starts at a higher viscosity, and will shear down. Maxlife will start at a lower viscosity, but will not shear as much.
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