2003 Toyota Camry Suspension Issues

Status
Not open for further replies.
First I'd like to say, I read ZERO of what went on below.

I just wanted to say this, this forum is MUCH better now that engineer20 is confined to a few threads of his own, and not necro-posting to 10 ancient threads at once. I encourage everyone not to encourage him.

Originally Posted By: engineer20
I'm storing the CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS, I am REPLACING the sway bar bushings. The Cont arm was made in japan/special orderred. The sway bar ones are in stock, one was made in USA but older, and the rest were from India, I haven't bought that one yet, but I have bought the japanese control arm bushings.

Said I'd store the control arm bushings, but my question was, DOES IT HURT to change them out now near 170k as preventative maintenance or don't?

Yesterday, I went to a U pull in junkyard nearby, and I risked it because they dont' tell you what's in there! I would see 97-99 camrys often, but rarely my camry, but I paid the dollar to get in (not that bad, like buying a lotto ticket that i know i'll lose money on, but this time, I "won") because there was an 02 camry there! I pulled off a wheel from it, as well as a bumper cover. The camry is black, and my rear bumper cover is cracked, so I'll replace that. I destroyed those plastic rivets that hold the bumper in, so I guess get the ones from the dealer or from oreilly's/parts stores? I kept the old broken ones as referenceing for dimensioning so i can get aftermarket ones which are cheaper. Ripping it off was easy becasue it's a U pull it and the bumper as already half off when I started since the tailight was ripped off as well as some other stuff, now it's the intallation which may be hard, and I"ll do that later.

Anyways, I got one wheel with tire off, but I wanted to get a second. The wheels are in perfect condition! This junkyard dosdn't tell you mileage, but I saw an oil change sticker from october of 2015 saying 199k, so I bet the car has around 200k on it, and for 200k, the car was in good condition! I looked at a lot of the suspension compoennts. I wanted to rip off a stabilizer link since it's oem, but i saw one of the boots was torn. I also saw the control arm, which I considered, but only took the wheel and bumper cover, and plan to maybe return again tomorrow for about an hour or so after work (it's nearby) and because of DST they begin summer hours so it's open to 6 now, rather than 4:30. I can post this picture of the control arm. My control arm was similar, in that the bushing isn't straight, it was sagging when I jacked it up, is this normal? I see some tears on it, it's from the JUNKAYRD, NOT MY CAMRY, and I saw the struts were also semi leaky, not in good condition, but I plan to rip a strut off and maybe reinstall it, so I can know the process, the back seat is already partially torn off, as in it's torn off, but wasn't taken away, so that may make things easier.

Also, I can't take the axle nut off, because the trans and engine have been removed, i wanted to pull an engine pan but it didn't have it, but I saw this rod that went to what was left of the transmission was spinning. So the axle nut doesn't come off since the whole hub spins. if the trans was in the car, it'd stop it from spinning, but because there's only a rod left, that resistance is gone and the rod spins with the axle nut, but I saw someone using a pipe wrench on round things, so have somone hold that rod that I see left in thwere the trans is, and then hold it with a pipe wrench, while I try to take the axle nut off? or what other advice do you have given this dilemna? I want to maybe remove the steering knuckle, but I think it's risky as it was rusty and could also have a bad wheel bearing! If I get a junkyard steering knuckle, i think it's better NOT to go to a u pull it, since the ones with the parts on the shelves, often have the parts tested, so they are good parts. BUT, I think while I might not get anything else from this car, it's a good car to practice on, as in pay the dollar, pratcice on the rear strusts, pratcie with the rear stabilizer bar links bushings, and also with the hex thing on the oem stab bar, I think a hex key is too weak and may round, and I didn't bring penetrating oil to the junkyard! next time, I"ll bring it next time. but the stabilizer link, I tried my hex key, which was in my tool bag I brought in, but it didn't work, it would round, so you need a socket. it's 5.5 mm, so I guess I'll buy a hex socket (do you recommend 1/4 or 3/8 drive for this) and now that I have that craftsman 3/8 ratchet as well as my normal husky 3/8 roundhead ratchet, I can use 2 ratchets to remove the oem stab links to get to the strut and control amrm and steering knuckle.

If you remove a part and don't buy it, should you reinstall it, or do you not have to? I see many parts in the trunk (ruined, unfortunately becasue it rained and the trunk was open), BUT I moved them to the backseat, since the windows are on the car, so if it rains those parts the other people pulled off but didn't use/buy will be saved, otherwise, if you leave them in the rain, they'll be ruined, as I saw an alternator from that car drenched in rainwater, sadly yesterday, so is it OK or acceptable and is it proper junkyard etiquette to put parts you pulled but aren't buyuing INSIDE the car? You could put it in the turnk, but that isn't proper junkyard etiquette which may ruin the part due to rain, OR should you reinstall it and put the part back in, for proper etiquettte?

I also need a tailight, since my rear one has some cracks and I used tailight tape on the rear left, but they only had the right side one! the left was already pulled off
frown.gif


but I think it's better to not go to a u pull it for a steering knuckel. i see belle tire papers from last year and last year, they said it was the left wheel bearing, and this year, they said the same, whereas some times, belle tire, didn't say anything about my wheel bearings and said they were fine.

The car makes a slight roaring noise when I turn left, so it that the left one? my plan was to get a junkyard steering knuckle, left, and install it, and see if the noise goes away, if so, i'm all set, if not, it's not the wheel bearing and it's something else, OR the junkyard steering knuckel also has a bad bearing, in this case, I have 30 days to return it in case the part does work, but if you go to a one where it's on the shelf and isn't a u pull it, the parts generally are ok and working.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20

Yesterday, I went to a U pull in junkyard nearby, and I risked it because they dont' tell you what's in there! I would see 97-99 camrys often, but rarely my camry, but I paid the dollar to get in (not that bad, like buying a lotto ticket that i know i'll lose money on, but this time, I "won") because there was an 02 camry there!


grin2.gif
 
if you dont' read that wall of text, at least, can you help me on getting that stuck tire off? it won't come off!, but i forgot penetrating oil, use penetrating oil? i kicked it, and hit it with a hammer, still no success. the tires are bald, so they'll only charge me for the rim, which is only 12 dollars, at discount, they want like 30 something and it's like 25 dollars at this cheapeast wheel place, so 12 is a good deal, one of my rims is bent and has a dent, BUT the tire on it is still ok and it's holding air and is holding it's seal but looks messed up, the disdount tire /bele ppl said don't mess with it, as if you do mess and have them try to bend it back, you could ruin the seal on the tire and then you'll need a new tire again, and that's a near new tire on there, so I don't want to risk that. but they said the next time i get a new tire, it might not hold the seal, so i'd need a new rim, so that's why I'm interested in rims. That lexus rim in my trunk, maybe I'll get rid of it and sell it seperately. also, that camry is an LE stick shift/manual, maybe a pipe wrench may help in getting the axle nut off since the trans is out, so i need something to grab a rod thing still while i turn the axle nut, as now, the axle nut spins with the hub, since the trans is out so that thing providing resistance is gone.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
can you help me on getting that stuck tire off? it won't come off!, but i forgot penetrating oil, use penetrating oil? i kicked it, and hit it with a hammer, still no success.

Did you try removing the lug nuts?
 
if you read, i did remove the lug nuts, but the wheel is stuck on there, then i hjit and kicked it, still wont' come off, it's stuck?
 
Maybe that Belle Tire place can help you. Drive to 8 different ones and see what they say. Make sure to ask if they use SAE or metric lug nut sockets. This is paramount.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
if you read, i did remove the lug nuts, but the wheel is stuck on there, then i hjit and kicked it, still wont' come off, it's stuck?
It's rusted on. You didn't kick it enough or hard enough. You might have to try to go from behind with a tire iron and try to pry on it.
 
Is this the harbor freight equivalent of JB Weld original? I want to try jb weld or its equivalent on my trans case which is slowly seeping, it could temporarily sovle the issue, to fix it propertly, they need to take the trans out and it will cost 1000+, but jb weld and do it every month thereafter might not be a bad idea and can be a temporary fix.


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-oz-qu...oxy-68346.html is this the equivalent from harbor freight of jb weld? thanks.


http://www.eastwood.com/jb-weld-8265...FYU2aQodCBQOVQ
 
First of all, why are you buying a part to store just in case when you are not planning to install it soon? Auto parts prices drop all the time, and you will expire your warranty if you buy early to hold.

As you can see in the junk yard, people pull parts out and damage them all the time, so you should be very careful when you pull something to make sure it was not already damaged by the customers or in an accident.

You do not need a transmission to hold the axles while pulling them, just put a screw driver into the vanes of the brake rotor to keep it from moving and then work on it with a breaker bar + socket / impact.

Yes, parts get rained on after the car has been pulled apart, but they get crushed after a few weeks and new cars will come, so don't worry too much.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: engineer20
if you read, i did remove the lug nuts, but the wheel is stuck on there, then i hjit and kicked it, still wont' come off, it's stuck?
It's rusted on. You didn't kick it enough or hard enough. You might have to try to go from behind with a tire iron and try to pry on it.


this is very common.before putting a wheel back on, I always put some grease on the part of the rim that will contact the hub. problem solved. of course, you should use metric grease, since you have an Asian car.
do NOT use a bfh.good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: yeti
Nick1994 said:
do NOT use a bfh.good luck.


BFH directly to the sidewall is the ONLY guaranteed way that it will come off.
You have to swing with all your might in order to get it, however.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear


You do not need a transmission to hold the axles while pulling them, just put a screw driver into the vanes of the brake rotor to keep it from moving and then work on it with a breaker bar + socket / impact.

Yes, parts get rained on after the car has been pulled apart, but they get crushed after a few weeks and new cars will come, so don't worry too much.


I tried the brake rotor screwdrive trick doesn't work and axle nut is still spinning, i plan to go tmrw i'll take a picture of it, I think holding it down with a pipe wrench, that long "pipe" thing below, may work.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: yeti
Nick1994 said:
do NOT use a bfh.good luck.


BFH directly to the sidewall is the ONLY guaranteed way that it will come off.
You have to swing with all your might in order to get it, however.

BC.


agreed. but, look who will be swinging the bfh.
he could dial 911, and only have to push enter. let's be honest -- e20 is an accident waiting to happen.
 
You guys are getting sucked into another 50 page thread that goes nowhere.

You're putting wear and tear on your fingertips for nothing.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You guys are getting sucked into another 50 page thread that goes nowhere.

You're putting wear and tear on your fingertips for nothing.


Did you ever figure out how to water that tree?
lol.gif
 
engineer, I think your gig is up. You have more automobile skills & training than you lead on. I think the only reason why people still respond is because of the safety issues that your fake repairs pose. The sad part is that you have the solution for the questions you ask.
 
I went to the junkyard today after work, and the camry was GONE! the 02! I was there for about an hr, as they close at 6, and I saw a 97 camry and tinkered with it to learn how to work on my camry, as it's similar, esp the suspensoin, and I got a stabilizer link off, as well as the front sway bar bushing (the rear sway bar was taken off), the bushing isn't hard, you take that collar off, but the hardest part is sliding the fasteners out and putting them back in due to limited clearance, if you take the tie rod out, you'd have more space, but not worth all that extra effort, so leave it in and carefully put the bolt in. Also, the stuff was STUCK, even with blaster, and I broke my adapter (I don't have enough 1/2 drive sockets, and broke me 1/2 to 3/8 adapter) and only brought deep sockets, so that with an adapter was way too long, with my harbor frfeight breaker bar (1/2 drive) so I also realize I need a 3/8 drive breaker bar, which is 18 inches and still long, for my 3/8 sockets, I have 6 pt, but now I realize, due to tight clearances and stuff, even if 6 pt grabs the nut better and won't strip/round it as easily as a 12 pt, if you're gentel, you shoulnd' tround with a 12 pt if you'r careful and don't do it very often (as you shouldn't, hopefully) and so I'll get a set of 12 pt 3/8 regular, non deep sockets from h freight, as wel as 12 pt 1/2 sockests, for oil changes and stuff where I can reach it easily, use the 6 pt sockets, and when it's hard to reach or i can only turn it so much (i used a ratcheting wrench to get the collar off to get to the bushing), the 12 pt is useful, so use 6 pt when you can and if it's easy and use 12 pt when you need it and don't use it too often, my ratcheting wrenches are 12 pt and haven't caused any harm, so just use the 12 pt, is my conclusion.

Pb blaster helped, at first, the drum wouldn't come off, but that's because i set the aprking break, i seat the brake so that i could get the rear wheel off as without it, it'd spin, but after you get it off, releasse the brake again and then the rum comes off easily! that's a lesson i learned and i began to work on the drum, though i wasn't able to get the shoe out (i had a limited amount of time, only so much I could do , as well as limited tools) and I reazlie you need needle nose pliers, and I didn't bring them! I used my dykes to finangle with cotter pins and learned how to take one out (did that to the tie rod), you bend it straight ,and then you yank it out with the dykes on the opposite end (not the end that folds, but the round end)! and didn't get any wheels/tires ,and i didn't have time to look at the exhaust sheild, anyways, today was crushign day and taht sucks, as I would've gotten an exhaust shield! They calliemd this camry was there for 4 months, but I didn't see it then! last time I went was before the winter in like november, and this 02 camry showed up probably JUST a little after my previous visit
frown.gif
but hopefully another one will come in soon, and I can get a left taillight, a right side/passenger rear view mirror, a rearview mirrow (center) as well as an exhaust heat shield, now i've gotten the hang of junkyards, and i brought my "work clothes" which is the same [censored]/dirty shirt/pants I wore when I was fixing my camry in december/january, and so because the ground is dirt/unpaved at the junkyard, wear some [censored] clothes you don't care about, and then bring in a ton of tools, and rely on neighbors for tools you dont' have, as I borrowed a neighbor's 12 pt non deep socket at one point today, and though fancy tools are nice, remember the basics, like regular needlenose pliers, and I wasn't able to find out if a pipe wrench would work today
frown.gif


at least now, i'll look forward to opportunities to come where I can work on camrys in the junkyards, and "pull parts" for them, and ppl will thank me for such, and i'll leave the pulled parts loosely on (so it's easy for the next person to take off) or inside the car (not in the trunk, it can get wet in there!) and work on a 97-99 which is common, as my generatoin isn't common in junkyards yet, at least i got a black gbumper cover, that's good as bumpers are black originally, so if i put it on my grren camry, it won't stick out, it'll just look like an unpainted bumper and many trucks/suvs/utlity vans have black bumpers, so that'll be ok.

anyways, though the camry got crushed, it was a good, fun expereicne and i look forward to the nexst time the camry appears again

the advantage of this junkyard is it's close toe work and therefore not too terribly far from where i live, the other junkyards are on the other side of town so i have to take a trip to get there, whereas this is right next to work and i can go anytime, any day, bBUT this junkyard doesn't inventory their cars or post it online! the one that's farther away in the city of detroit, has an inventory online, but it never has my camry, it did at one pont, but it was very stripped down and i didn't know what i was doing at the time. i was a junkyard vergin.
 
will a star hex like t27 work on a hex bit? i saw the t sockets at home depot at bought a star ,sicnce they didn't have a 5.5mm! a 12 pt works on a 6pt socket for a fastener, so would a star bit socket or star hex / allen key work for something that calls for a 6 pt hex allen key? Thanks, i wasn't able to test that hypothesis as the hex size on the 97 camry was 5 mm, not 5.5 but a lot of the stores i went to today didn't see the 5.5 mm and had a 5 or 6, ro what's an SAE size for a hex that might work for a 5 mm or 5.5 mm hex bit/allen key? thanks.
 
Nice hobby you have there, at least if you make a mistake you will not get people killed.

Why don't you just spend time in the yard instead of messing with your car until you becomes good at it?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom