2003 Duratec 3.0 Tune Up

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

Stainless1020

Joined
Dec 24, 2013
Messages
26
Location
Illinois
Hey guys, I have been reading this site daily for quite some time now and finally decided to make an account. I have gotten some great information from this board.

Anyway, I have a 2003 Ford Escape with the 3.0 duratec v6. It has 85,000 miles on it and is in decent shape. It was previously a one owner car, but it seems that only basic maintenance was performed. I figured that because everything is already ten years old it could use a tune up. I have not been getting the greatest gas mileage but there are no codes (not even pending). I have two questions:
1. Would you recommend the tune up? I planned on doing it by 100k anyway.
2.Does anyone recommend any specific parts or methods for completing the tune up? If I did do the tune up I was planning on doing it myself as I do have mechanical experience just not with these engines.
Parts I had planned:
Denso or Motorcraft platinum plugs
Denso Ignition coils
Fel pro Upper and Lower Intake Manifold Gaskets
Fel pro valve cover gasket set (I found oil in a plug well when I changed a front plug/coil)
Motorcraft PCV
 
I have a 2001 Duratec, only thing I would suggest is the motorcraft platnium plugs. Usually on other sites, some people have good/bad luck with other brands, but no one ever has problems with the motorcraft ones. On the PCV, I think there's also a tube associated with it and that should be changed too. It's all easy to do if you swap out the gaskets at the same time, but I had a mechanic do mine pretty much all at the same time, plugs, PCV and gasket set.
 
Thanks for all the quick replies. I should have added that I have already serviced the transmission with all fresh fluid and Lubegard Red additive. I will stick with motorcraft plugs and I have heard about the PCV hose as well. Fuel filter was also recently changed with new motorcraft. Old Mustang Guy - a CD4E with 198k?? You did it right, congrats!

Any other suggestions?
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I have a 2001 Duratec, only thing I would suggest is the motorcraft platnium plugs. Usually on other sites, some people have good/bad luck with other brands, but no one ever has problems with the motorcraft ones. On the PCV, I think there's also a tube associated with it and that should be changed too. It's all easy to do if you swap out the gaskets at the same time, but I had a mechanic do mine pretty much all at the same time, plugs, PCV and gasket set.


The Motorcraft plugs sold now do not match the Motorcraft plugs that came out of it.

The ones that came out of my MZI (Duratec30) looked identical to Autolites except for the striping on the insulator. Same black oxide coating, same platinum pad. The new style look a little like Champions. Silver shell and a much smaller center electrode. I don't know if Ford actually sourced them from Federal Mogul but they do look a little similar.
21.gif
Maybe that's the way Fram group makes them now

The new style Motorcrafts work fine. For that matter so does NGK G-power.
 
I noticed earlier that the plugs available today have different part numbers. I have also seen the G power but I am always leery about using anything non OEM.
 
I would get the Autolite plugs, they would likely be closest to the original equipment.

I would look at changing the transmission fluid and adding a cooler. The transmission in that is barely adequate for a small car.

Fuel filter and coolant flush would be next for me.
 
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020
Thanks for all the quick replies. I should have added that I have already serviced the transmission with all fresh fluid and Lubegard Red additive. I will stick with motorcraft plugs and I have heard about the PCV hose as well. Fuel filter was also recently changed with new motorcraft. Old Mustang Guy - a CD4E with 198k?? You did it right, congrats!

Any other suggestions?


Originally Posted By: Miller88
I would get the Autolite plugs, they would likely be closest to the original equipment.

I would look at changing the transmission fluid and adding a cooler. The transmission in that is barely adequate for a small car.

Fuel filter and coolant flush would be next for me.


I think you should practice reading more closely...
 
I did read. There's no point in paying extra for a Motorcraft plug that is a rebranded autolite. And it needs a Cooler; they barely held up behind the 4 cyl in the escort.
 
Go ahead and do the belts while you are there. Take your time, i found the intake manifold gaskets take a bit of finesse to get in place without disturbing them when reinstalling the intake.

I never replaced my coils. I had 175k on it when i trade it. Very reliable engine. The upstream o2 sensor is worth replacing. I gained a few mpg after doing so, and mine never thew a code. I just noticed the fuel mileage dropping off.
 
Looks like my original plans were not far off. I might try to tackle this is the next few days. Thanks again everyone and any continued advice is appreciated. This is the most expensive tune up Ive ever heard of lol.
 
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020
Old Mustang Guy - a CD4E with 198k?? You did it right, congrats!

Any other suggestions?


Wife's 03 Escape is @ 142k and no transmission issues - maybe a flare here and there when cold but still nice firm shifts.. 30k flushes will do that. IMHO the CD4E is like the AX4N/S, AXOD - change the fluid every 30k and they will get good service life. Not stellar life but adequate - if the wife's bit it tomorrow I'd feel we got our money's worth.

Definitely do the PCV valve while you have the manifold off - much easier than trying with it on (trust me, I know). Also replace the PCV tube - early ones had issues with the rubber deteriorating and the wife's was pretty bad.

If you're doing the manifold gasket, also check the oil pan and timing cover gasket. Those can leak on that vintage Duratec and it all has to come off to replace the timing cover gasket so if it's leaking, add an oil pan and timing cover gasket and related parts to it as well.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020
Old Mustang Guy - a CD4E with 198k?? You did it right, congrats!

Any other suggestions?


Wife's 03 Escape is @ 142k and no transmission issues - maybe a flare here and there when cold but still nice firm shifts.. 30k flushes will do that. IMHO the CD4E is like the AX4N/S, AXOD - change the fluid every 30k and they will get good service life. Not stellar life but adequate - if the wife's bit it tomorrow I'd feel we got our money's worth.

Definitely do the PCV valve while you have the manifold off - much easier than trying with it on (trust me, I know). Also replace the PCV tube - early ones had issues with the rubber deteriorating and the wife's was pretty bad.

If you're doing the manifold gasket, also check the oil pan and timing cover gasket. Those can leak on that vintage Duratec and it all has to come off to replace the timing cover gasket so if it's leaking, add an oil pan and timing cover gasket and related parts to it as well.


Wow really glad to hear another person had good luck with their CD4E. As I figured, consistent service will keep it going for a while. Unfortunately, the previous owner did not ever service the trans although it shifted fine when I bought it although a few times I noticed the torque converter shudder. As soon as I flushed the trans it did nothing but shift perfectly. Im sure the lubegard only helped a bit more. What kind of fluid were you using? I was planning on sticking to strictly regular MERCON since that is what was spec'd initially.
 
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020

Wow really glad to hear another person had good luck with their CD4E. As I figured, consistent service will keep it going for a while. Unfortunately, the previous owner did not ever service the trans although it shifted fine when I bought it although a few times I noticed the torque converter shudder. As soon as I flushed the trans it did nothing but shift perfectly. Im sure the lubegard only helped a bit more. What kind of fluid were you using? I was planning on sticking to strictly regular MERCON since that is what was spec'd initially.


I wouldn't worry if its working fine now. I think the later versions are relatively stout. The re is another 03 Escape in the family with about the same mileage and as far as I know it's OK as well.

Fluid is whatever the Ford dealer used - I think by now it's all Mercon V as it was back-speced for it. I'd stick with that since it is a synthetic fluid and what Ford recommends now.

The Escape is a reliable vehicle - the wife's has not given her many issues over the 142k other than the Duratec Oil Leaks and a front bearing at 100k or so but I blame the bearing on the crummy PA roads. And the other side is starting to make noise now too. Wife is planning to replace it next year with, you guessed it, another Escape.
 
Originally Posted By: itguy08
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020

Wow really glad to hear another person had good luck with their CD4E. As I figured, consistent service will keep it going for a while. Unfortunately, the previous owner did not ever service the trans although it shifted fine when I bought it although a few times I noticed the torque converter shudder. As soon as I flushed the trans it did nothing but shift perfectly. Im sure the lubegard only helped a bit more. What kind of fluid were you using? I was planning on sticking to strictly regular MERCON since that is what was spec'd initially.


I wouldn't worry if its working fine now. I think the later versions are relatively stout. The re is another 03 Escape in the family with about the same mileage and as far as I know it's OK as well.

Fluid is whatever the Ford dealer used - I think by now it's all Mercon V as it was back-speced for it. I'd stick with that since it is a synthetic fluid and what Ford recommends now.

The Escape is a reliable vehicle - the wife's has not given her many issues over the 142k other than the Duratec Oil Leaks and a front bearing at 100k or so but I blame the bearing on the crummy PA roads. And the other side is starting to make noise now too. Wife is planning to replace it next year with, you guessed it, another Escape.


I want to use the mercon V, but I have read and heard so many horror stories on switching to it in the CD4E. Some say that only early formulations caused the issues and it has since been corrected but Im not sure if I believe that. I am going to do a drain and fill at 90,000 to get anything out that was freed up with the initial fluid change so we will see probably this summer.

Anyway, glad to hear you have enjoyed your escape. One thing I would recommend is to research the current problems the escapes are experiencing. Apparently some are shutting off on the highway and their are a few lawsuits pending. Hopefully its nothing major with them!
 
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020
I noticed earlier that the plugs available today have different part numbers. I have also seen the G power but I am always leery about using anything non OEM.


I honestly can't tell the difference between the original Autolite style Motorcraft, new style Motorcraft, and NGK G-power. Outward appearance aside, the only discernible difference is the $2 or so I saved on each plug with the NGKs. It doesn't run any smoother, quicker or see any real change in MPG with the more expensive Motorcrafts.

Same ignition coils on my Mazda. I'm surprised you haven't had one die. All six of mine eventually went belly up starting at around 60,000 and ending around 140,000 miles. The first Master-Pro replacement from O'Reilly has lasted longer than half of the OE (Ford) branded ones did. If I can get 50,000 more miles out of it, it will have outlasted all of the OEM Ford coils.

I had Motorcraft plugs in the engine when the first coil kicked the bucket. One did get swamped by a coolant leak so in all fairness, It might still be alive today if it had not met an early demise by drowning
 
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
Originally Posted By: Stainless1020
I noticed earlier that the plugs available today have different part numbers. I have also seen the G power but I am always leery about using anything non OEM.


I honestly can't tell the difference between the original Autolite style Motorcraft, new style Motorcraft, and NGK G-power. Outward appearance aside, the only discernible difference is the $2 or so I saved on each plug with the NGKs. It doesn't run any smoother, quicker or see any real change in MPG with the more expensive Motorcrafts.

Same ignition coils on my Mazda. I'm surprised you haven't had one die. All six of mine eventually went belly up starting at around 60,000 and ending around 140,000 miles. The first Master-Pro replacement from O'Reilly has lasted longer than half of the OE (Ford) branded ones did. If I can get 50,000 more miles out of it, it will have outlasted all of the OEM Ford coils.

I had Motorcraft plugs in the engine when the first coil kicked the bucket.


I was seriously considering the NGK's as well. And yes, Ive heard these coils go bad all the time and thats why I was not going to use the motor crafts to replace them. Thanks for your input!
 
Oh, they also failed with NGKs. Maybe I just got a bad batch of coils
21.gif


Front 3 are easy. I change all the plugs when I have to change one of the back three. I already have the upper intake off. Might as well.

I don't know if the PCV valve is a problem on the regular Duratec30. It caused a few engine failures on '03-'04 VVT Mazda6es
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
2008 Chevrolet Aveo Misfire uphill (Chevy Again)
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
robertfixit
G
Should I change my oil after a misfire due to a leaking fuel injector?
2
Replies
21
Views
706
Drifter
P
  • Question Question
Doing spark plugs on a Lexus, what is this rubber gasket?
Replies
10
Views
1K
KGMtech
U
2002 Sebring O/C and tune up
Replies
3
Views
374
harbor
S
2010 Kia Forte 2.0L Valve cover gasket
Replies
12
Views
1K
Sequoiasoon
Back
Top Bottom