2003 Corolla: motor mounts?

[panthermike]

Good morning all,

When I bought this car back from my buddy a few months ago I noticed that it had vibration at idle in drive. Also there was sort of a buzzing sound but only when cold. As soon as the car warms up it smooths out to some degree and does not make the buzzing sound. Definitely still some vibration present though, felt in the wheel as well as the seats.

I had read that the intake manifold gasket on these was prone to failure so I replaced that did not make a change. My next thought was motor mounts. The car does have 251,000 mi. I did the put it in drive and rev the engine test, I did see some back and forth movement but not as much as I expected maybe in an inch of play slightly more?

Just looking for any thoughts, if the motor mounts are the right track or something else vacuum leak? Just trying to find a good direction to start, the OEM motor mounts on this car are about $500 for the lot.

Car has no check engine codes.

 

[cptbarkey]

Very good chance they are shot. There is a rear mount (trans), front mount, left and right (trans). Could be any of them. I need to buy a full set myself for my project Matrix sometime in the future as they are all spongy.

 

[The Critic]

There is most likely nothing wrong, but for some models, there is a TSB for the hydraulic mount near the passenger front fender.

I have seen minimal improvement from replacing that mount unless there was something obviously broken.

These engines are simply rough and buzzy, especially as they age.

 

[97prizm]

Good morning all,

When I bought this car back from my buddy a few months ago I noticed that it had vibration at idle in drive. Also there was sort of a buzzing sound but only when cold. As soon as the car warms up it smooths out to some degree and does not make the buzzing sound. Definitely still some vibration present though, felt in the wheel as well as the seats.

I had read that the intake manifold gasket on these was prone to failure so I replaced that did not make a change. My next thought was motor mounts. The car does have 251,000 mi. I did the put it in drive and rev the engine test, I did see some back and forth movement but not as much as I expected maybe in an inch of play slightly more?

Just looking for any thoughts, if the motor mounts are the right track or something else vacuum leak? Just trying to find a good direction to start, the OEM motor mounts on this car are about $500 for the lot.

Car has no check engine codes.

Idle air control valve. I need to replace mine on my neon. Similar symptoms.

 

[panthermike]

There is most likely nothing wrong, but for some models, there is a TSB for the hydraulic mount near the passenger front fender.

I have seen minimal improvement from replacing that mount unless there was something obviously broken.

These engines are simply rough and buzzy, especially as they age.

Definitely a concern is spending $500 and it being exactly the same! I have replaced the driver side (trans) mount already as it was easy to do and relatively inexpensive.

Interestingly on the TSB but not exactly the same; the buzzing sound only happens for the first few minutes when the car is coldest and I put it in drive. As soon as I'm above 10mph or so and accelerating it disappears. Also when the car is fully warmed up, no more buzzing.

 

[panthermike]

Idle air control valve. I need to replace mine on my neon. Similar symptoms.

I've never dealt with IAC's; would I have idle speed issues or not always? Reading online some of the symptoms match but some don't.

 

[cjcride]

I had a buzzing on a Corolla and one of the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts was loose.
Tightened it and noise gone.
Check the heat shields on the catalytic converter too

 

[panthermike]

I had a buzzing on a Corolla and one of the exhaust manifold heat shield bolts was loose.
Tightened it and noise gone.
Check the heat shields on the catalytic converter too

Thanks, that is simple enough to try!

 

[97prizm]

I've never dealt with IAC's; would I have idle speed issues or not always? Reading online some of the symptoms match but some don't.

Apparently certain vehicles and my neon in general have IAC valve issues from the factory ( How was this not caught in testing? ) My neon idles in D when cold but after warm up or 20ish minutes of driving in warm/hot weather it idles rough and if stop and go traffic will rarely set off but occasionally an oil light can come on. It seems like it's hit or mis but apparently ALL neons have this issue (Thanks lazy Stellantis). It's definitely worth a look. Questions feel free to pm me.

 

[The Critic]

Thanks, that is simple enough to try!

Belt tensioner as well, especially that 19mm.

 

[panthermike]

Found a really good deal on some OEM mounts, so I purchased them to do in the near future. Cleaning IAC is on the list as well.

 

[panthermike]

Did the mounts yesterday, that did the trick. So much smoother.

 

[The Critic]

Did the mounts yesterday, that did the trick. So much smoother.

All 4?

 

[panthermike]

All 4?

Yes, shopped nationwide and got a pretty good deal I thought.

 

[The Critic]

Yes, shopped nationwide and got a pretty good deal I thought.

That is quite the investment. Kudos to you.

 

[panthermike]

That is quite the investment. Kudos to you.

Haha I know right. Surprised by the price but we're keeping her for a while. I thought of it as about 1 months car payment