2003 Corolla, GC, 10,000 miles

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I should add this oil was doped with ~200ml of Rick's Brew (scroll down)

It seems the intake system spoiled this one.
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Replaced with MC 15w40. Using old stock.
 
quote:

Crap, if this was Amsoil people would take a dump.

Amsoil thickens all the time, GC never does. That is the difference. Si is also high.

Great report Z.
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This makes me feel even more confident about my decision to start doing 10,000 mile intervals using GC in my wife's Civic! Her silicon is usually only 4ppm in 5k so her air filter is working well enough to handle it too. Plus she never sees any fuel dilution in her oil either.
 
GC normally does not thicken mainly because folks typically aren't running change intervals > 10,000 miles. I believe you'll find that any 0w30 will tend to thicken over long drains, due to both evaporation and oxidation.

The Cr/Fe/Al levels are just fine, as is filtration - a lot of the silicon(e) in newer Toyotas is simply gasket leaching. Why Blackstone hasn't picked up on this yet is simply beyond me. Go back and review the UOA's of low mileage Toyotas and it's very obvious.

TS
 
Buster my comment was more in regard to the TBN of 1.6. Seems to me people would have a say about this.

Z - I couldn't EXACTLY pick up on "Rick's Brew" please explain, what it is, how much, when added, etc....
 
Pablo,

As you know, the TBN's from Blackstone are so out of wack anyway, I don't take a lot of stock in them. Send this sample to any another lab and the TBN would be about 2 points higher.

The oil performed very well here, but it's reached the end of it's service life.

(and I thought I got up early!)

Ted
 
nice one but I think you would do a little better than that using M1. See my toyota previa UOAs.

JMH
 
Sure does not look like GC to me
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Moly too high, calcium too low. Viscosity is out of wack, too. Are you sure this was GC? Did you pour it in yourself? Did bottles say Made in Germany? What oil was used previously?
 
Silicon looks ok to me. Consider how much was in this brew to begin with and subtract it. Consider the mileage and the relatively new engine and the ppm per miles driven is ok, imho.

I'd be happy with this report.
 
Looks pretty good, I take it this engine doesn't normally produce that much copper.

-T
 
quote:

Buster my comment was more in regard to the TBN of 1.6. Seems to me people would have a say about this.

Sure ..GC is wimpy in the TBN retention arena. This was a very nice report ..but I don't see it being anything exceptional. Nothing I see distinguishes GC over a multitude of other oils that can muster a 10k run.

You're also right TS ..that if this was Amsoil ..the sky would be falling ...but since it's GC ..everything is just rosy.
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Here's an M1 TBN @ 7500 ..even if you cut it in half to account for whatever lame test being done .. or even by a factor of 4:1 ..GC still loses. 10k is about the limit for the magic juice.
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[ March 25, 2005, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: Gary Allan ]
 
Michael,

The amount of silicon(e) or other contaminents in used oil samples is directly proportional to the number of miles on the sample. For example, your most recent sample showed 16 ppm of silicone after 4750 miles. This sample shows 23 ppm of silicone after 10,000 miles, which is very reasonable in that context.

Understood?
 
quote:

Originally posted by vvk:
Sure does not look like GC to me
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Moly too high, calcium too low. Viscosity is out of wack, too. Are you sure this was GC? Did you pour it in yourself? Did bottles say Made in Germany? What oil was used previously?


I'm positive! Moly is due to Rick's Brew. Check out the links I posted. It explains exactly what I did.
Basically, a pint of Schaeffers #132 mixed into a pint of Valvoline Maxlife Engine Protector. I added 200ml from the resulting brew. My Z28 also showed very good results with this brew. Don't know if I can attribute anything to the brew, but, both MLEP and #132 seem to have shown wear reduction in various vehicles.

The only thing that concerns me is the Iron and Silicon. I think they are both a bit high.

The viscosity increase is due to mileage. Too Slick has the right answer on that. Remember, NO MAKE-UP OIL was added! No filter change. This oil was not touched the entire interval.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
GC normally does not thicken mainly because folks typically aren't running change intervals > 10,000 miles. I believe you'll find that any 0w30 will tend to thicken over long drains, due to both evaporation and oxidation.

The Cr/Fe/Al levels are just fine, as is filtration - a lot of the silicon(e) in newer Toyotas is simply gasket leaching. Why Blackstone hasn't picked up on this yet is simply beyond me. Go back and review the UOA's of low mileage Toyotas and it's very obvious.

TS


I disagree. Either the air filter is not sealed up properly or it's overloaded.

Toyotas normally don't produce this much silicon, especially on an engine that has been well-broken in, with 40K on it.

Take a look at this UOA:
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The vehicle has only 13K and the silicon is no where as high. (From Bill's car)

Michael
 
RICK, RICK, oh ye of little faith.


I think we addressed this issue on the first analysis and you ain't gonna get it cyphered correctly based on the free advice I be readin'from the brethern....... however Michael Wan is on the right track.

GC certainly will thicken just not as much or as fast as Amsoil TSO. Thats why I recommend LC with it in longer drains. Especially in this engine line that likes to sludge from the head bone area.
 
Z,

How long was this OCI in months?

Also, from when to when if you don't mind.

I'm still trying to figure out what OCI and what oil to use in my Corolla once the warrenty runs out.
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I may even start going to a 3-4k oci on dino *if* this motor is sludge prone... Changing the oil on this is soooo easy, I'm thinking this is where I'm heading.

My old 1986 VW jetta just passed 250k with EVERYTHING that came with the factory on the engine (timing belts and spark plugs is the only thing that has been done) and all I ever did was change it using Havoline or Pennzoil dino with Fram filters every 3-4...
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No need to spend $2-$5+ a quart?

Take care, bill
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Rick, I may be "wrong" but that analysis above is telling me you have a little dirt and fuel dilute issue that is needlessly wearing the wife's Toyo,..
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How much FP and LC was employed. When was the air filter last changed ? Hows the PCV look ? Hows the air filter seal ?

Indeed this 1.8 L engine design will generate sludge and I have seen plenty of them do it.

Worst cases run premium fuels have a loaded air filter, are driven by conservative drivers, and have poor quality ( cheaper oils or overdrained good oils).

Bill, do you sample that VW engine ever ? If so please post one or two recent ones.
 
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