I'm helping my friend out. His relative has moved here from the US with an American-spec 2003 Acura TL.
I installed a block heater, and am now installing an aftermarket DRL (daytime running lights) module so the car can be registered here.
I've installed the module (except for the 12 V supply) complete with all the other wiring. When I run a jumper to the battery's positive terminal for testing purposes, the DRL module and associated lights work as they should.
The supply needs to be switched 12 V (i.e. only present when the ignition is on), or else the DRLs would run all the time.
I was a bit dismayed to find that every fuse in the underhood fuse panel was supplied with battery voltage (i.e. full-time, not switched).
I found a 2nd fuse panel inside the car, fed by switched power.
So now I need to run a wire from the engine compartment into the cabin. Once there I'll find a way to tie into the switched-power fuse panel.
I'd prefer to not drill a hole if possible - I'm scared of hitting other wiring or the heater core (for example).
Even better, I'd love to be able to tap into a circuit under the hood with switched power.
Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
I installed a block heater, and am now installing an aftermarket DRL (daytime running lights) module so the car can be registered here.
I've installed the module (except for the 12 V supply) complete with all the other wiring. When I run a jumper to the battery's positive terminal for testing purposes, the DRL module and associated lights work as they should.
The supply needs to be switched 12 V (i.e. only present when the ignition is on), or else the DRLs would run all the time.
I was a bit dismayed to find that every fuse in the underhood fuse panel was supplied with battery voltage (i.e. full-time, not switched).
I found a 2nd fuse panel inside the car, fed by switched power.
So now I need to run a wire from the engine compartment into the cabin. Once there I'll find a way to tie into the switched-power fuse panel.
I'd prefer to not drill a hole if possible - I'm scared of hitting other wiring or the heater core (for example).
Even better, I'd love to be able to tap into a circuit under the hood with switched power.
Any thoughts on this? Thanks.