2002 LS1 Camaro Rotella T Syn 5w40

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Hello everyone as many of you might remember this my LS1 that is giving what I think is high wear. I was using German Castrol 0w30 for several years with nothing but ---- poor results. I decided based on what many of your guys said to switch to Rotella T Syn 5w40 and do a short 3,000 mile OCI. Here are the results:
This UOA(Rotella T).................................first UOA(all GC 0w30.
Aluminum 3 /6/3/3/3/2/2/3/2/3

Chromium 1 /1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/1

Iron 16 /32/26/19/20/10/12/31/9/16

Copper 61 /22/32/25/42/44/56/63/52/118 (Jumped way up!)

Lead 5 /10/9/7/10/5/5/6/4/8

Tin 2 /1/2/0/2/1/3/6/3/3

Molybdenum 6 /6/7/5/11/10/60/74/65/68

Nickel 1 /1/1/1/1/0/1/1/0/1

Manganese 1 /2/1/1/1/1/1/1/1/0

Potassium 0 /2/0/1/3/3/3/2/2/0

Boron 4 /2/0/3/10/17/140/152/119/157

Silicon 11 /10/9/8/10/10/12/23/37/14

Sodium 2 /2/3/2/3/3/6/6/2/9

Zinc is 1335 up from a steady range of 760-900ppm.

TBN 4.2

SUS Viscosity 71.3

Flashpoint 385

Insolubles 0.2

Everything dropped but copper shot way up! I know this was also a shorter OCI but wear is lower even on track to 5,000 it would have been lower.

Not sure if I should stick with Rotella because of the Zinc(bad for my Cat converter) and something is screwing my copper.

What do you guys think? I'm going to try 1 more OCI and then probibly switch if copper is still high.
 
I am sitting here scratching my head in an attempt to think of what is copper in the LS1 that could wear like that? I have a 99 SS by the way.
 
I'd stay with Rotella. Zinc isn't all that much, and unless you're burning a lot of oil, you'll be ok.

Silicon seems a bit high too. I know you rebuilt this engine a while back, but your engine, although better numbers now, still seems to be wearing a bit out of the norm.

I'd call Terry!
 
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I am sitting here scratching my head in an attempt to think of what is copper in the LS1 that could wear like that? I have a 99 SS by the way.




Same thing as all LS motors...the cam bearings. But don't worry, almost all LS motors end up with exposed copper in the cam bearings yet their is no issue of pending motor damage.

Hammer
 
I wouldn't sweat the copper in a GM V8 too much, but you should do few more runs before drawing any conclusions. The numbers look a bit within family for the most part. Especially Fe, Cr and Al. Not high or anything, though. What kind of miles were you putting on the GC, for comparison?
 
I have been debating about switching to Rotella syn. or Mobil 1 HM 10w40 in my LS1...Im trying to see if i can reduce my oil consumption a little...I might try the Mobil 1 10w40
 
Was the Rotella CI-4 or CJ-4 rated? If it's CI-4, that might explain the higher Zinc. I haven't seen CJ-4 Rotella 5w-40 on the shelves yet, but when it does, I'm sure it'll have less Zinc in it, like a lot of other HD oils that are CJ-4.
 
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Was the Rotella CI-4 or CJ-4 rated? If it's CI-4, that might explain the higher Zinc. I haven't seen CJ-4 Rotella 5w-40 on the shelves yet, but when it does, I'm sure it'll have less Zinc in it, like a lot of other HD oils that are CJ-4.




I'll check and post back.
 
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I wouldn't sweat the copper in a GM V8 too much, but you should do few more runs before drawing any conclusions. The numbers look a bit within family for the most part. Especially Fe, Cr and Al. Not high or anything, though. What kind of miles were you putting on the GC, for comparison?




5,000 miles.
 
Chris,

If it isn't too much to ask, can you post engine miles, UOA miles and rebuild point for these UOAs. This would give us an idea if the rebuild "might" have something to do with the higher wear.

Boy I wish I had never asked my old dealer to check for piston slap on my Camaro! It seems things went horribly wrong a year and a half after....a head gasket leak or something. I would have had the car paid off by now. I didn't want to have to pay to have it rebuilt and risk reocurrence, so now I'm driving a Mazda and 2 more years of payments.
mad.gif


Maybe I'll get another one when the new ones come out.
 
Last Z,
The engine was rebuilt at 12,000 miles and the 2nd UOA from left was the oil used right after re-breakin and was Halvoline dino 5w30. It is the UOA with only ppm Iron. Total miles on car now is 48,000. Do you think the dealer may have done a ---- rebulid? The shop formen assured me his engine builder guy was top notch and would do a good job. I told him before the rebuild I was concerned that the rebulid might not be as good as factory and he said it would be ok.
It still burns a little oil, maybe less then 8 in 3K or 10 oz in 5K. Still has a slapping "diesel" sound too.

If copper does not drop next UOA I my switch oil again. Anyother reccomendations?
 
I can't edit my above post. I ment to say the 2nd UOA from the right side not the left. It is the UOA with 9ppm iron. and was a 2,000 UOA and all other were 5,000 using German Castrol. This Rotella UOA was 3,000 miles.
 
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Last Z,
The engine was rebuilt at 12,000 miles .............. The shop formen assured me his engine builder guy was top notch and would do a good job.





Why did you need to rebuild a motor with only 12,000 miles?

I have heard many horror stories from people who have had thier motors rebuilt by "the best engine builder around".
 
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I have heard many horror stories from people who have had thier motors rebuilt by "the best engine builder around".




Would also like to add...How often do you here a dealership say "oh no, you don't want our guy building your motor". It's a fact of business that your business has the best _________.


Hammer
 
I'd try 5w30 Maxlife Full Synthetic or PP 5w30. Havoline DS 5w30 dino if you want a non-synthetic oil.
 
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