2002 Ford Explorer trans

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
119
Location
Atlanta, GA
I recently just purchased a 2002 Ford Explorer Limited 2WD w/ the 4.6 for my wife, 38,000 miles. The discounts on the new ones really helped push down the used prices in this case.

Had a couple questions about the trans. It feels fine now, but...

I know the Ford transmissions aren't the world's best. But, which transmission does this Explorer have? How good/bad is it with maintenance? The service records did not indicate there was a fluid/filter change yet. The previous owner said Ford did not have a service scheduled for the trans this early. I haven't verified that myself in the owners manual, but wouldn't be surprised. It looks like they did reprogram the computer to fix some shifting issues though about 20k ago.

I do know that the Ford trannies should be serviced earlier than scheduled.

Should I go ahead and do the fluid/filter change?

Does this trans have a drain plug?
 
I bought the vehicle from the original owner, but it was not someone I knew previously. I asked him about the trans fluid & filter, and he just indicated it was not something the dealer mentioned to him (he had the oil changes done at the local Ford dealers).

If it was my vehicle, I probably would have changed the fluid and filter at 30,000. So, I suppose another 8,000 isn't as bad as it could be. Or is it???
 
I have always figured that if it has under 70K when I buy it and it does not smell or look weird it is probably saveable. The Explorer transmission seems to have a bad reputation, but mine lasted over 205K without a hiccup and fluid changes at about 50k or so. Far as I know it is still tooling around town. 38k without a change is definitely in the ok range. If it can't take that it's a lemon tranmission.
 
If this is the same transmissions as the '98's, it is a good one.

Change the MerconV fluid every year by dropping the pan.
 
The trans in my 2002 explorer was a total turd. It is a 5 speed automatic and is a sealed unit. I traded it at 46K before I got hit with a $5400 replacement. Your trans does not have a dip stick and a trans service on that vehicle is not for the faint of heart. You actually need the Ford computer to do a "accurate" fluid check. Ever thought about how you add fluid to a trans without a dipstick tube?

If you are not familiar with the special procedures for servicing the trans I would suggest you stay far away from the tranny pan bolts.

Good luck.

PS-A transtec service may be your best option if you can find someone to do it. The are only two shops in my town that have a transtec and they would not touch it since they had no way to make a accurate fluid check after the service.
 
Interesting, since we havent had the vehicle that long I didn't think about looking for a dipstick tube. I wrongly assumed it had one. Will have to check that out tonight.

5400 sounds like a little much for a replacement. Did a dealership give you that quote? Or an Aamco?
 
I think a consumer revolt agains this idiocy is in order. I for one if shown an automobile without a dipstick will walk away. How many people would buy a home PC, for example, with a sealed and unopenable case?
 
I have a Mountaineer and the transmission (5R55W)has always been rough and I've tried to maintain it well. I pushed the dealer to change the fluid at 35k. I insisted he drop the pan to clean it and change filter. It still shifted rough and would bang on downshifts from 3-2. Severe problem developed at 65k and the value body and solenoid were replaced ($1200). Trans shifted very smooth up until 80k. Now it again shifts very rough. It sometimes holds shifts and bangs on downshifts. In summary, I changed the fluid 3 times in 80k, but IMO the trans shifting issues have always been a concern. It is unfortunate because the engine has been flawless. This is a model year 2002 BTW, my wife drives it primarily so she is easy on it. I plan to dump it in the next few months. Good luck!
 
The hold shift thing may be by design. I used to have a Taurus that did the same thing. It was supposed to preserve the tranny by not banging gears or something.

The guy I bought this Explorer from said his has always done it...and mentioned it before I took it out. When I drove it hard, it reminded me exactly of my Taurus. Goes to shift and hangs on for a split second b/w the up shift. My parents' older mountainer ('98) is the same way. Different trans though.

The rough downshifting and any kind of clunking will worry me.
 
The hold shift feels like the vehicle is 'stumbling'...trying to shift, and then finally getting there. I agree on the downshift. It will bang hard from 3rd to 2nd. Ford told me it was normal...ha ha. Around town I told her to drive it with the overdrive button off. This was recommended by a Ford tech..
 
quote:

Originally posted by rgl:
I think a consumer revolt agains this idiocy is in order. I for one if shown an automobile without a dipstick will walk away.

Unfortunately, we are bucking a megatrend. My 2001 VW Passat has a "sealed" ZF tiptronic, for which a pan-drop service costs about $270 (more at a VW dealership, IF you can find one which will even touch the transmission). My 2003 Dodge Stratus has a good old dipstick, so I don't have to crawl under the car with the engine running to set the fluid level.
 
The no dipstick/filler tube is a major PITA, but is do-able for the DIY'er. I have the same setup on the (GM) 4L30E auto trans in our 2002 isuzu rodeo. It's got two downward facing 'drain' plugs on the trans pan. The lower plug is for draining, the one stamped higher up/recessed into the pan is for filling & checking level. The need for a 'computer' for a fluid change is only to verify the ATF is up to temp. Totally not needed. Just another ploy to take it to ford for service. I use a cheap garden pump to pump ATF up/in thru the fill hole, and for the 4L30E, you fill until ATF dribbles out the fill hole with the truck warm, idling in neutral on a level surface. An ATF transfusion thru the cooler lines with one of those fluid exchangers works well on these trans as well.
G/luck
Joel
 
My wife had a 2002 Explorer with the 4.0 V-6 and her tranny ran fine and shifted great. At 30,000 miles we had the Ford dealer do a complete fluid exchange, NOT A FLUSH. After the fluid exhange the shifting was even slightly better. I recommend getting the fluid changed as soon as possible. The fluid exchange at the dealer was $110, a reasonable expense. No where in the maintanence booklet does it recommend changeing the ATF in this tranny
rolleyes.gif
but every 30,000 miles should be good, unless you do a lot of towing in hot climates. Another thing is I don't know if the tranny in the V-8 is the same as the tranny in the V-6. Both are 5 speeds but are the the same
dunno.gif
.

Now if only the timing chain tensioners in that 4.0 were as "good" as the tranny she'd still have the 2002. I'll post the UOA over the weekend
mad.gif
!

Whimsey
 
I did read about those timing chain tensioners in the 4.0. I don't know if the 4.6 has the same trans behind it as the 4.0, but my assumption is they do. I wasn't even sold on the 4.6, but we found the one we wanted with it. In the end, I did feel more comfortable with that engine b/c I worked on them in Mustangs before.

I will call about getting the trans serviced at the dealer...$110 isn't too bad.

I also called Ford and extended the warranty on the expensive items. They made a special exception (LOL) since I was past the factory warranty. I was like, yeah right, like they aren't totally looking for any source of money these days...
 
quote:

Originally posted by BatmanLS1:
I did read about those timing chain tensioners in the 4.0. I don't know if the 4.6 has the same trans behind it as the 4.0, but my assumption is they do. I wasn't even sold on the 4.6, but we found the one we wanted with it. In the end, I did feel more comfortable with that engine b/c I worked on them in Mustangs before.

I will call about getting the trans serviced at the dealer...$110 isn't too bad.

I also called Ford and extended the warranty on the expensive items. They made a special exception (LOL) since I was past the factory warranty. I was like, yeah right, like they aren't totally looking for any source of money these days...


I'm sure the 4.6 has timing chain tensioners but there hasn't been the reported failure rate that the 4.0 V-6's have. It's a bad part that Ford knew about in 1997 and choose to ignore. They warrantied 1997-2000 4.0 SOHC's for the front tensionwers at least. They said it was fixed by late 2000
mad.gif
, BS! They refuse to fix any 2001 and up 4.0's with the failed tensioners. These engines are designed and manufactured in Germany I believe. Well so much for German engineering. I'm of German descent so I can say that
grin.gif
.

Whimsey
 
quote:

Originally posted by Big Jim:
I'm familiar with servicing this trans and would be happy to explain how to do a fluid exchange at home if anyone cares to know.

OK...I'm game!
smile.gif



I have a 2002 Explorer 4.6. I had it in at around 33K miles for a trans filter change. Right now I have almost 60K on it and I'm looking to do a fluid change soon.
 
Now that I think about it, I'm not 100% certain that it will work. I'll explain the method of exchanging the fluid and tell you that I have seen it performed on other transmissions. I'll also explain how you can determine the correct level. Someone will need to try it and confirm that it will work.

First the fluid exchange system. If it doesn't work, stop before loosing more than about a quart or two so you can still drive it to a shop if needed.

Basically, it is the two bucket method. Remove the trans lines at the radiator and tickle the ignition switch to determine which line is outgoing and which is the return. Extend both hoses with additional hose (clear line from a hardware store is sufficient and inexpensive, find the correct size) into a five gallon plastic bucket. Put the correct amount of trans fluid in the bucket with the return hose (suction side) and have an assistant start the engine. If the fluid is in reasonable condition, use about two quarts more than the transmission capacity. If the fluid is very bad, use about five quarts more than capacity. As one bucket empties, the other one will fill. Keep the hose in position so that you do not suck air and the input should match the output. Have your assistant shut off the engine when the fresh fluid bucket is nearly empty.

To confirm that this is working correctly, you may wish to only open one or two bottles instead of the whole batch.

Many can do this without an assistant. It does not happen instantly so there is usually time to shut off the engie yourself, but it is helpful to be able to control the suction hose near the end.

Now about how to get the fluid level correct. The vehicle must be level and the fluid must be up to operating temperature. The only reason for dealer techs to use their scan tool during this process is to read the fluid temp. This is really unnecessary as long as the trans is up to normal operating temperature. It may help to have the vehicle lifted, but keep it level.

There is a funny looking drain plug on the trans pan. It looks like a plug within a plug. On the inside, where you can't see it, there is a standpipe attached to the smaller plug. Remove the small plug. The goal is to with the car level and the engine running and the trans up to operating temperature to have a very small trickle of fluid falling out. If all went well, that is what you will find when you check it, remember that you can confirm from checking the buckets if the old fluid quantity matches what went in. If more needs to be added, clamp off the outgoing line and suck a little more in.

On cars with a dipstick tube, this same technique can be used for the fluid exchange, although many only use one bucket and add fresh fluid at about the same rate that it is pumping out through the dipstick tube. Of course, on such cars the fluid can be checked by conventional means. On these cars, I use a calibrated catch bucket, that is I mark the side at quart intervals by filling the bucket with water one quart at a time with a quart bottle.
 
i have an 02 Explorer with 48k on it.
is there a "better" atf i should use in the change?
i want to do it tomorrow morning.
daily driver, plenty of stop and go, 4.6L v8, 2wd.
LOTS of heat down here.
it was a mere 108F yesterday.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom