I need to replace the catalytic converter on my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado LS 5.3 engine. I can get the entire Y pipe through Walmart.com for $207 shipped. The manufacturer is DNA Motoring out of California. I can get this setup from anywhere from $200 to $600. I’ve only found two reviews; one good, one bad. My concern is quality and warranty. One reviewer said that he had an issue with his. Walmart defaulted to the manufacturer warranty. The manufacturer said that Walmart’s warranty. Anyone have any experience with DNA Motoring? Any other recommendations?
2000 Silverado Catalytic Converter
- Thread starter otis24
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First Are you in California or a California emissions state? I would not purchase emissions equipment from Walmart. If so then it has to have the correct stamping and carb number or no dice. Have you looked at going to a local shop to have a y-pipe installed? Sime could probably do it for very reasonable.
$207 for a catalytic converter is cheap, too cheap I would say. It may work for a little while, but I would except it to throw a check engine light shortly after installing it.
All catalytic converters have a 2-year/25k warranty for catalytic performance, and a 5-year/50k warranty for structural integrity.
California requires a 5-year/50k warranty on catalytic performance (and also on structural integrity, but rust isn't a problem in California)
What kind of condition is the rest of the truck in?
If it's not rusty, and you plan on keeping the truck awhile, get a CARB-certified cat even if you're not in California. The CA-legal cats have more precious metal catalyst material in them and will last longer.
If the truck is in poor shape and you don't plan on keeping it more than a year or two, then get the "Original Performance" cat on Rock Auto. It seems to have a black coating on it that should keep the rust away for awhile.
You should also replace the oxygen sensors along with the cat. Denso and NTK are good brands, but you can also get GM OE sensors if you prefer.
California requires a 5-year/50k warranty on catalytic performance (and also on structural integrity, but rust isn't a problem in California)
What kind of condition is the rest of the truck in?
If it's not rusty, and you plan on keeping the truck awhile, get a CARB-certified cat even if you're not in California. The CA-legal cats have more precious metal catalyst material in them and will last longer.
If the truck is in poor shape and you don't plan on keeping it more than a year or two, then get the "Original Performance" cat on Rock Auto. It seems to have a black coating on it that should keep the rust away for awhile.
You should also replace the oxygen sensors along with the cat. Denso and NTK are good brands, but you can also get GM OE sensors if you prefer.
Walmart.com is an interesting middleman worth checking out for name brand auto parts. So also is Home Depot. Both show up when I google part numbers. IDK if DNA is a legitimate brand name but WM shouldn't sell illegal junk, and there's an EPA warranty as stated earlier in the thread.
Tuning software....Assuming it performs well & you just have a Catalyst performance DTC P0420/P0430.
I ordered an Evan Fischer catalytic converter through CarParts.com. It was a little more money but I think the warranty will be better/easier.
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Yeah I would be cautious about buying a super cheap cat, OP. The better ones are pretty expensive. I just went through this with my first year Miata. I ordered a cat online and brought it to my shop and.. it's didn't fit, despite being made for my specific car supposedly. Ended up sending it back and finding a used one on FB that worked out ok. The whole thing was a major hassle though.
If you have some time OP, I would do more research before buying the Walmart version as I don't think it'll very last long. The fact OEM cats are often $1,500-$2K vs many aftermarket ones being like $200 tells you there has to be a huge difference in quality.
I don't think you have anything to worry about.. I bought a "no-name" catalytic off of amazon for my now-gone 96 Civic. It was actually better quality than the Honda one plus the welds were awesome! Well to be fair the Honda was poorly made, exhaust manifold would crack due to thin iron. But.. the new one was much thicker, but the big thing about these cheaper cats is this.. BREAK IT IN BEFORE DRIVING!! That's the biggest failure with these cheaper ones.
How to break it in? Simple.. After installing, idle the car until the cooling fan comes on, then turn off the engine, let it cool down.. Then start it up and drive it normally. The batting around the catalytic honeycomb brick needs to melt into place..
So again, the no-names can be good if you take a little extra care breaking it in..
EDIT : oh and for those talking about pricing, the no-name I got was about $110, Not bad at all, I was happy!
Evan Fischer just rebadges bottom end parts. I'm not bashing your purchase, it's likely just fine. I just find the brand to be a curious amalgamation of low end auto parts. I once got a taillight for an '02 Taco that fit very poorly. But I've purchased cheap fenders for beaters that fit fine.
What it is that you are trying to achieve? If you are fighting catalyst inefficiency codes, and unable to pass state inspection, you are likely going to continue fighting it in short order with a cheap set of CCs. If you just need something to bolt in place to keep the exhaust system intact and are not worried about setting codes, cheap will work.
Given you're able to order what you did, you live in a non-CARB state, so the sky is basically the limit.
Given you're able to order what you did, you live in a non-CARB state, so the sky is basically the limit.
The cats on mine are plugged and throwing codes. Need to replace. Only drive the vehicle about 6k miles per year.
Delete the converters & use tuning software
This
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