2000 Sebring Convertible, 2.5L, 147000 mi.
1. Does NOT miss or stumble at COLD start-up and while engine is warming up.
2. Engine hot (normal) - misses and stalls at initial start/acceleration and low rpm’s
3. No missing or stalling above 1500 rpm (put foot on brake and hold idle at 1200-1500, no stumble/stall when moving off from stop light.
Things I’ve done: (using volt/ohm meter)
1. Determined erratic resistance on TPS between pin 2&3, “closed” end of range. Resistance between pins 1 & 3 = 5310 ohms. Replaced TPS with after mkt. part. Now measure 5545 ohms between pin1&3 on the new one. With ignition on (not running), between center pin 2 and air intake housing, measured 0.68v fully closed and 3.68v fully opened.
2. Replaced IAC
3. Checked MAP: Ignition on, 4.9V pin2 to ground, 4.3v pin 1 to pin 3. Looked into sensor opening but could not tell anything – don’t know what it looks like new. I did not clean.
4. Checked IAT: Visual, cleaned with solvent, ignition on, 4.86v across pins (wires), cold.
5. Listened for vac. leaks. Found one at fuel tank vapor inlet to throttle body and repaired.
6. Visually followed wiring harnesses. No unusual wear points or loose connections. Have not done any continuity checks.
7. Checked distributor cap and rotor (new 40000 miles ago) – looked OK.
8. Took off EGR valve. Sucked on diaphragm hose and it seemed to open/close freely. No crud build-up on the pintel or seat. Cleaned both. Hosed with WD-40. I don’t know about the “modulator”(?) unit up stream of the EGR.
9. Removed the battery ground for 5 min. to aid in re-learning.
10. Paid $80 for an analysis (supposedly same results that I would get at the dealer). The only diagnostic code was PO123 TPS sensor fault. So that’s why I replaced the TPS.
I’m still having the same problem. I thought maybe the after-market TPS part was faulty. But the voltage range and overall resistance seems to check out. Testing the “smoothness” of the resistance reading near the closed range is a little tricky with my ohm meter. So I’m guessing my new TPS is OK. ?? I plan to sell this car, but can’t until this stumble is fixed. Two days at the dealer will cost what the car is worth. So, do you have any DIY ideas?
1. Does NOT miss or stumble at COLD start-up and while engine is warming up.
2. Engine hot (normal) - misses and stalls at initial start/acceleration and low rpm’s
3. No missing or stalling above 1500 rpm (put foot on brake and hold idle at 1200-1500, no stumble/stall when moving off from stop light.
Things I’ve done: (using volt/ohm meter)
1. Determined erratic resistance on TPS between pin 2&3, “closed” end of range. Resistance between pins 1 & 3 = 5310 ohms. Replaced TPS with after mkt. part. Now measure 5545 ohms between pin1&3 on the new one. With ignition on (not running), between center pin 2 and air intake housing, measured 0.68v fully closed and 3.68v fully opened.
2. Replaced IAC
3. Checked MAP: Ignition on, 4.9V pin2 to ground, 4.3v pin 1 to pin 3. Looked into sensor opening but could not tell anything – don’t know what it looks like new. I did not clean.
4. Checked IAT: Visual, cleaned with solvent, ignition on, 4.86v across pins (wires), cold.
5. Listened for vac. leaks. Found one at fuel tank vapor inlet to throttle body and repaired.
6. Visually followed wiring harnesses. No unusual wear points or loose connections. Have not done any continuity checks.
7. Checked distributor cap and rotor (new 40000 miles ago) – looked OK.
8. Took off EGR valve. Sucked on diaphragm hose and it seemed to open/close freely. No crud build-up on the pintel or seat. Cleaned both. Hosed with WD-40. I don’t know about the “modulator”(?) unit up stream of the EGR.
9. Removed the battery ground for 5 min. to aid in re-learning.
10. Paid $80 for an analysis (supposedly same results that I would get at the dealer). The only diagnostic code was PO123 TPS sensor fault. So that’s why I replaced the TPS.
I’m still having the same problem. I thought maybe the after-market TPS part was faulty. But the voltage range and overall resistance seems to check out. Testing the “smoothness” of the resistance reading near the closed range is a little tricky with my ohm meter. So I’m guessing my new TPS is OK. ?? I plan to sell this car, but can’t until this stumble is fixed. Two days at the dealer will cost what the car is worth. So, do you have any DIY ideas?
