Hello all! Today, after I flushed my transmission (it's surprising what a flush can do for shifting after 63k miles!) I started reading and researching about synthetic oils. Is it advisable to switch oil type after such high mileage? Any brands or type recommended for this vehicle? What about the engine, differential, etc., is it recomended to switch them too? Is there anything to gain or worth it this far in its' life? (bearing that cost is not a problem and that I find a good synthetic lubricant or those.) Thanks!
2000 Pathfinder: Switch to synthetic oil?
- Thread starter cachacopr
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This is the stuff:
Amsoil Synthetic ATF
63K miles is not very high miles. Just like you flushed your transmission maybe an AutoRx clean for your engine.
Search around a bit, these questions are often brought up.
Amsoil Synthetic ATF
63K miles is not very high miles. Just like you flushed your transmission maybe an AutoRx clean for your engine.
Search around a bit, these questions are often brought up.
Welcome to the forum!
What type of oil and intervals have you been running?
You may jump right to syn if you want, especialy if you want extended drain intervals.
I switched a '96 Vic 4.6 w/ 138k + miles to syn and a '95 K1500 350TBI w/ 160k + miles to syn with no adverse effects. They both had routine dino oil changes their whole lives. Go ahead on your Pathfinder if you want.
Since you are doing some PM now, my I suggest the following....
Decarbonize you combustion chambers with SeaFoam (follow directions on can)
Change engine oil after seafoam treatment
Run SeaFoam in the gas tank
Change Fuel Filter
Change PCV Valve
Does your engine consume oil now?
Try Valvoline Maxlife (dino) 5-30. It's 12-18% PAO synthetic though not marketed as a "blend". It's good for 5k mile OCI for most driving situations.
I have had good experiences with the Maxlife Synthetic version.
If you go Syn, you may go for extended drain intervals. Most here go 6-7k miles minimum on good Syn.
Now would be a good time to change the diff fliud too. Drop some 80-90 GL5 in and if you go Syn (M1, Royal Purple, AMSOIL), you probably could leave it in for the rest of the time you own the vehicle.
Good luck and keep us posted.
What type of oil and intervals have you been running?
You may jump right to syn if you want, especialy if you want extended drain intervals.
I switched a '96 Vic 4.6 w/ 138k + miles to syn and a '95 K1500 350TBI w/ 160k + miles to syn with no adverse effects. They both had routine dino oil changes their whole lives. Go ahead on your Pathfinder if you want.
Since you are doing some PM now, my I suggest the following....
Decarbonize you combustion chambers with SeaFoam (follow directions on can)
Change engine oil after seafoam treatment
Run SeaFoam in the gas tank
Change Fuel Filter
Change PCV Valve
Does your engine consume oil now?
Try Valvoline Maxlife (dino) 5-30. It's 12-18% PAO synthetic though not marketed as a "blend". It's good for 5k mile OCI for most driving situations.
I have had good experiences with the Maxlife Synthetic version.
If you go Syn, you may go for extended drain intervals. Most here go 6-7k miles minimum on good Syn.
Now would be a good time to change the diff fliud too. Drop some 80-90 GL5 in and if you go Syn (M1, Royal Purple, AMSOIL), you probably could leave it in for the rest of the time you own the vehicle.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Hi! I use regular Havoline 10-w30, and religiously change it every 3k miles. My fuel filter was changed about 1 year ago, have never changed the PCV valve (I thought it would not need to be changed before 100k miles). As far as I have observed, my engine does not consume oil and it runs fine (knocking on wood). I just changed my diff oil with regular Havoline 80-w90 (man, it came out looking kind of charcoal-colored). As for the transmission, I just did a flush with regular ATF, thinking on dropping the pan and filter the next time, sometime in the summer (I went to 3 stores and none had the gasket & filter, and I didn't want to wait much longer to, at least, change the fluid, it came out looking brown more like prune juice). Other than that, I think I will switch to all synthetic the next time around (which at my current daily routine, won't be long anyways). I just made my last payment, so I gotta enjoy a paid-for car, now is when it has to last for many years to come! Thanks for all your help! Will keep you posted! (great forum here, lots of help!)
Welcome boricua...
Except for the fuel injectors and the EGR system, those VG engines are pretty solid... The EGR valve can get clogged with carbon making the engine idle roughly (not just a Nissan issue but also an issue in other car brands). The fuel injectors can also be problematic. I used to own a '97 Mercury Villager, which had the 3.0 version of that engine, and the fuel injectors were my biggest headache... That van was traded in with 100k miles with no engine or transmission issues. It saw 3k OCI with Castrol 5w30 and later with Mobil 5w30. In PR, 10w30 is a more appropriate oil grade. For the transmission, I believe I used to use Pennzoil Dexron III and later Valvoline MaxLife Dexron III. Shifts felt pretty good with the Valvoline, for some reason...
Buena suerte and enjoy the ride...
[ January 13, 2006, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: GimmeTorq ]
Except for the fuel injectors and the EGR system, those VG engines are pretty solid... The EGR valve can get clogged with carbon making the engine idle roughly (not just a Nissan issue but also an issue in other car brands). The fuel injectors can also be problematic. I used to own a '97 Mercury Villager, which had the 3.0 version of that engine, and the fuel injectors were my biggest headache... That van was traded in with 100k miles with no engine or transmission issues. It saw 3k OCI with Castrol 5w30 and later with Mobil 5w30. In PR, 10w30 is a more appropriate oil grade. For the transmission, I believe I used to use Pennzoil Dexron III and later Valvoline MaxLife Dexron III. Shifts felt pretty good with the Valvoline, for some reason...
Buena suerte and enjoy the ride...
[ January 13, 2006, 01:32 AM: Message edited by: GimmeTorq ]
Vaya mi pana!!! How's it going? Live down here or in the mainland? (you know how traffic jams are here in San Juan during business hours) Well, just recently I started to look at maintenance beyond just engine oil and filter, and have replaced many things that were neglected for such a long time, needless to say that the Pathy now runs like a charm (except for much needed tire balance and alignment, but will do that when I buy new tires, coming soon, since the current ones are almost worn out). My injectors have never given me problems (tocando madera), although I have used injector cleaner a few times before, don't know how much it really helps, but better safe than sorry. It currently has 63k, and was wondering when exactly should I do the timing belt. since the manual says at 105k, others have told me different... Anyhow, I have always used Havoline 10w30, thinking on going synthetic all the way around on the next round of changes.
Boricua dondequiera!!! Cheers and have a nice one!!!
Boricua dondequiera!!! Cheers and have a nice one!!!
Bayamontate, Barranquitate!!!
I'm in the mainland US but born and raised in PR. I visit la Isla every year. Stop-and-go traffic (it is like a parking lot in front of Plaza) in the heat of the tropic is brutal!! I never replaced the timing belt in my '97 Villager, but I agree with unDummy. The VG is an interference engine and a broken belt is disastrous for the engine. If you decide to do so, go to a reputable shop.
I use Mobil1 motor oil and ATF for both transmission and PS in my '02 Maxima (VQ35) and it likes it.
Saludos
I'm in the mainland US but born and raised in PR. I visit la Isla every year. Stop-and-go traffic (it is like a parking lot in front of Plaza) in the heat of the tropic is brutal!! I never replaced the timing belt in my '97 Villager, but I agree with unDummy. The VG is an interference engine and a broken belt is disastrous for the engine. If you decide to do so, go to a reputable shop.
I use Mobil1 motor oil and ATF for both transmission and PS in my '02 Maxima (VQ35) and it likes it.
Saludos
Regardless of the mileage, 6 years is a pretty good life on a timing belt. i remember changing my VG30 belt every 60k miles like clockwork.
It was an interference engine. If the belt breaks, there will be a violent and messy relationship between the pistons and valves.
Dont forget the xcase/frontrearends/brake and PS fluids. They all need changing by now too.
It was an interference engine. If the belt breaks, there will be a violent and messy relationship between the pistons and valves.
Dont forget the xcase/frontrearends/brake and PS fluids. They all need changing by now too.
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