2000 Nissan Altima: Blown Head Gasket -- Update
- Thread starter Phishin
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A slow leak in the radiator could be a culprit if it was left there for a long time. If driven long distance antifreeze could be pushed out and not having enough pressure to keep the coolant from boiling in the head and overheat it. I think my engine had the same problem (warp head and lose compression) due to a bad radiator that has hairline crack (CSF all metal radiator, what a piece) over time as well.
Yeah, it had a hair line crack on the top, two actually, for over a year and 20k miles. It was dark when I got home, but I did the best I could to snap a few pics.
The real question is....how does anyone have a 12 year old engine with less than 10k miles?
The real question is....how does anyone have a 12 year old engine with less than 10k miles?
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Sounds almost too good to be true. Nice score!
Boy that engine has been sitting around a long time! I'd pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders and turn it by hand first. I'd also change the timing belt and probably expect some leaks. Odds are it's been sitting on a shelf drying out for ten years.
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
Boy that engine has been sitting around a long time! I'd pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders and turn it by hand first. I'd also change the timing belt and probably expect some leaks. Odds are it's been sitting on a shelf drying out for ten years.
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
Boy that engine has been sitting around a long time! I'd pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders and turn it by hand first. I'd also change the timing belt and probably expect some leaks. Odds are it's been sitting on a shelf drying out for ten years.
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
Boy that engine has been sitting around a long time! I'd pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders and turn it by hand first. I'd also change the timing belt and probably expect some leaks. Odds are it's been sitting on a shelf drying out for ten years.
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
You could always try cranking the engine over without actually starting it for quite a bit for letting it go. Do an initial idle to temp, drain it after that, refill with fresh everything and drive it around. Drain again for a short interval. Proceed to monitor oil consumption in the event time/miles has caused a ring to stick a bit.
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
Boy that engine has been sitting around a long time! I'd pull the plugs, lubricate the cylinders and turn it by hand first. I'd also change the timing belt and probably expect some leaks. Odds are it's been sitting on a shelf drying out for ten years.
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
You could always try cranking the engine over without actually starting it for quite a bit for letting it go. Do an initial idle to temp, drain it after that, refill with fresh everything and drive it around. Drain again for a short interval. Proceed to monitor oil consumption in the event time/miles has caused a ring to stick a bit.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
You could always try cranking the engine over without actually starting it for quite a bit for letting it go. Do an initial idle to temp, drain it after that, refill with fresh everything and drive it around. Drain again for a short interval. Proceed to monitor oil consumption in the event time/miles has caused a ring to stick a bit. [/quote]
The plan was to crank it and prime it with oil. Put 50 miles on it, and to an OC. Drive it 500 miles and do another OC.
While I'm doing this....always keeping a watchful eye on the temp gauge and the watching for oil consumption.
After the couple of quick OC's with Valvoline conventional, she's going on either GC or Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30.
When stored, the salvage yard guy poured some oil down each cylinder. Thats good news. Before start up, I'll disconnect the ignition and prime the snot out of it with oil.
No timing belt on this motor. Chain on the KA24DE.
You could always try cranking the engine over without actually starting it for quite a bit for letting it go. Do an initial idle to temp, drain it after that, refill with fresh everything and drive it around. Drain again for a short interval. Proceed to monitor oil consumption in the event time/miles has caused a ring to stick a bit. [/quote]
The plan was to crank it and prime it with oil. Put 50 miles on it, and to an OC. Drive it 500 miles and do another OC.
While I'm doing this....always keeping a watchful eye on the temp gauge and the watching for oil consumption.
After the couple of quick OC's with Valvoline conventional, she's going on either GC or Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30.
Please post your opinions or advice. There has been a new twist/turn of events.
Engine was installed last night. Would not start. Great compression. 180psi across all cylinders.
No fuel pressure. Fuel pump must have died.
Now the real question is: Has anyone ever had a fuel pump failing that caused the car to run so lean, that it destroyed the engine? So far, from what I'm hearing from my mechanic, this is exactly what happened. Is this possible? The old engine, had two dead cylinders, one that was about dead (85psi), and one that was okay (150psi).
anyone ever hear of an engine frying from running lean due to a failing fuel pump?
What you fellas gotta say?
One last thing, I've had a P0420 code for awhile (low catalytic efficiency) for awhile, but the engine management wouldn't lean the car out to fix this condition, would it?
Engine was installed last night. Would not start. Great compression. 180psi across all cylinders.
No fuel pressure. Fuel pump must have died.
Now the real question is: Has anyone ever had a fuel pump failing that caused the car to run so lean, that it destroyed the engine? So far, from what I'm hearing from my mechanic, this is exactly what happened. Is this possible? The old engine, had two dead cylinders, one that was about dead (85psi), and one that was okay (150psi).
anyone ever hear of an engine frying from running lean due to a failing fuel pump?
What you fellas gotta say?
One last thing, I've had a P0420 code for awhile (low catalytic efficiency) for awhile, but the engine management wouldn't lean the car out to fix this condition, would it?
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two dead cylinders could be anything from him messing up the compression test, to the head valves being busted, or head gasket failure, to any other number if issues. i wouldnt assume your original engine is toasted.
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Originally Posted By: cptbarkey
two dead cylinders could be anything from him messing up the compression test, to the head valves being busted, or head gasket failure, to any other number if issues. i wouldnt assume your original engine is toasted.
He used the same compression gauge and got perfection compression on the new motor on all 4 cylinders.
He thought his gauge might be faulty too when he tested the motor the first time, and grabbed another gauge. Gave him the same results.
Regardless, I think the engine went "kaboom" and the fuel pump does not produce ANY fuel pressure.
two dead cylinders could be anything from him messing up the compression test, to the head valves being busted, or head gasket failure, to any other number if issues. i wouldnt assume your original engine is toasted.
He used the same compression gauge and got perfection compression on the new motor on all 4 cylinders.
He thought his gauge might be faulty too when he tested the motor the first time, and grabbed another gauge. Gave him the same results.
Regardless, I think the engine went "kaboom" and the fuel pump does not produce ANY fuel pressure.
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A bad fuel pump could certainly cause a lean condition but you probably would get a lean DTC long before any sort of damage like that occurred.
This cat issue might be something. Some of these engines ingested pieces of the pre cat back into the cyl and wiped them out.
I don't recall the exact years but it maybe something to look into.
If the damage was from lean mixture there would probably be some melting damage to the pistons. Cat material would give scoring from the ceramic.
Check out the old engine damage first before starting the new one.
This cat issue might be something. Some of these engines ingested pieces of the pre cat back into the cyl and wiped them out.
I don't recall the exact years but it maybe something to look into.
If the damage was from lean mixture there would probably be some melting damage to the pistons. Cat material would give scoring from the ceramic.
Check out the old engine damage first before starting the new one.
Well, I don't have a fuel pump problem. I stopped at the shop after work and checked the fuel pump fuse and relay. Both were fine.
I pulled the fuel hose off the intake, and cranked the car over. Gas shot out about 3' high. Maybe pulling the fuse reset the fuel pump or something, I don't know.
Hooked the fuel line back to the intake, and cranked and cranked. No start. More investigation tomorrow.
Trav-I'll look into the pre-cat ingestion.
I pulled the fuel hose off the intake, and cranked the car over. Gas shot out about 3' high. Maybe pulling the fuse reset the fuel pump or something, I don't know.
Hooked the fuel line back to the intake, and cranked and cranked. No start. More investigation tomorrow.
Trav-I'll look into the pre-cat ingestion.
Originally Posted By: Trav
A bad fuel pump could certainly cause a lean condition but you probably would get a lean DTC long before any sort of damage like that occurred.
This cat issue might be something. Some of these engines ingested pieces of the pre cat back into the cyl and wiped them out.
I don't recall the exact years but it maybe something to look into.
If the damage was from lean mixture there would probably be some melting damage to the pistons. Cat material would give scoring from the ceramic.
Check out the old engine damage first before starting the new one.
Lol this. I literally just replied to his PM with almost the exact same verbage.
A bad fuel pump could certainly cause a lean condition but you probably would get a lean DTC long before any sort of damage like that occurred.
This cat issue might be something. Some of these engines ingested pieces of the pre cat back into the cyl and wiped them out.
I don't recall the exact years but it maybe something to look into.
If the damage was from lean mixture there would probably be some melting damage to the pistons. Cat material would give scoring from the ceramic.
Check out the old engine damage first before starting the new one.
Lol this. I literally just replied to his PM with almost the exact same verbage.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Well, I don't have a fuel pump problem. I stopped at the shop after work and checked the fuel pump fuse and relay. Both were fine.
I pulled the fuel hose off the intake, and cranked the car over. Gas shot out about 3' high. Maybe pulling the fuse reset the fuel pump or something, I don't know.
Hooked the fuel line back to the intake, and cranked and cranked. No start. More investigation tomorrow.
Trav-I'll look into the pre-cat ingestion.
This might make me sound like a newbie, how are the plug and wire condition ? Also with that much cranking, the cylinder might run the risk of being flooded. Sounds like there isnt any ignition or the fuel isnt getting to the cylinders. Check the fuel rail, pressure regulator and Manifold Pressure sensor as well.
Well, I don't have a fuel pump problem. I stopped at the shop after work and checked the fuel pump fuse and relay. Both were fine.
I pulled the fuel hose off the intake, and cranked the car over. Gas shot out about 3' high. Maybe pulling the fuse reset the fuel pump or something, I don't know.
Hooked the fuel line back to the intake, and cranked and cranked. No start. More investigation tomorrow.
Trav-I'll look into the pre-cat ingestion.
This might make me sound like a newbie, how are the plug and wire condition ? Also with that much cranking, the cylinder might run the risk of being flooded. Sounds like there isnt any ignition or the fuel isnt getting to the cylinders. Check the fuel rail, pressure regulator and Manifold Pressure sensor as well.
I discovered why the new motor wouldn't run.....and also found out why my old motor fried.
I suspected there was a problem with the timing....because it had fuel, spark, and good compression. And at the end of a 5 second crank/starting attempt, it would hiccup just once.
How can the timing be off? You can't adjust the timing and the dizzy only goes in one way....
Took the dizzy cap off and look at the rotor. There is supposed to be a set screw that holds the rotor in place. It wasn't there.....and upon further inspection, there was no hole/threads showing where the screw was to go into. I popped the rotor off, and it had somehow twisted on dizzy shaft!!! There is a flat area on the dizzy shaft and a corresponding flat area on the rotor to ensure proper orientation, and somehow it had STILL TWISTED. My guess is that it was between 40-60 degrees off.
Who knows how long this was occurring. I'm assuming that having the timing advanced or retarded that much, would have caused all sorts of pinging and pre-detonation and caused everything to run hot and maybe burn the valves or cause the head gasket to blow. What do you think?
The old dizzy had to go in my new motor, and this is why I couldn't get it started. I put the rotor on correctly, threaded in a temporary set screw, and she fired right up.
Tomorrow, everything will be buttoned up, including a new rotor and cap.
Has anyone ever heard of something like this happening?
I suspected there was a problem with the timing....because it had fuel, spark, and good compression. And at the end of a 5 second crank/starting attempt, it would hiccup just once.
How can the timing be off? You can't adjust the timing and the dizzy only goes in one way....
Took the dizzy cap off and look at the rotor. There is supposed to be a set screw that holds the rotor in place. It wasn't there.....and upon further inspection, there was no hole/threads showing where the screw was to go into. I popped the rotor off, and it had somehow twisted on dizzy shaft!!! There is a flat area on the dizzy shaft and a corresponding flat area on the rotor to ensure proper orientation, and somehow it had STILL TWISTED. My guess is that it was between 40-60 degrees off.
Who knows how long this was occurring. I'm assuming that having the timing advanced or retarded that much, would have caused all sorts of pinging and pre-detonation and caused everything to run hot and maybe burn the valves or cause the head gasket to blow. What do you think?
The old dizzy had to go in my new motor, and this is why I couldn't get it started. I put the rotor on correctly, threaded in a temporary set screw, and she fired right up.
Tomorrow, everything will be buttoned up, including a new rotor and cap.
Has anyone ever heard of something like this happening?
I have replaced cap and rotor before and this is new to me. I've gotten one stuck rotor on the shaft because previously i was stupid enough to use damp cloth to clean the shaft between replacement and it bind/rust the rotor to the shaft. I've also gotten stripped head on the screw that hold the rotor to the shaft (my fault), and I can see if someone didn't screw in the rotor correctly it can fall out, and hit the rotor in motion and bent it. Or they put the cap back on with an object in there (i.e. old rotor or a screw) and it hit a rotor in motion and bent it.
Who touched your dizzy last time?
Who touched your dizzy last time?
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Another mechanic replaced rotor and cap 2 years ago when I was having my intake manifold gasket replaced.
Even with the set-screw not in place, it would still be hard for the rotor to twist on the shaft because of how the rotor fits onto the round shaft with a flat spot. But I guess over time, with the speed of the revolutions, it could happen....and that is why the set-screw is there.
Now, when my current mechanic removed the rotor and cap yesterday, he didn't see any set screw in the cap....so maybe it was never there. Hard to say. Harder to prove.
My guess is, the set screw was never installed two years ago, and it over time, the rotor worked it's way that far advanced/retarded over a long period of time.
I could confront the mechanic who did the work two years ago, but it's impossible to prove.
Even with the set-screw not in place, it would still be hard for the rotor to twist on the shaft because of how the rotor fits onto the round shaft with a flat spot. But I guess over time, with the speed of the revolutions, it could happen....and that is why the set-screw is there.
Now, when my current mechanic removed the rotor and cap yesterday, he didn't see any set screw in the cap....so maybe it was never there. Hard to say. Harder to prove.
My guess is, the set screw was never installed two years ago, and it over time, the rotor worked it's way that far advanced/retarded over a long period of time.
I could confront the mechanic who did the work two years ago, but it's impossible to prove.
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A loose rotor will not effect timing. Crossfiring....... possibly.
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