2000 Mustang GT oil recommendation

[Kohrs93]

New guy here! Been doing a little reading on this site and it has got me intrigued!

I have a 2000 Mustang GT. Have always used Mobil 1 5w20 in it, but after reading a few thread it seems as though 0w20 might be a better option for me.

I live in Illinois. We get below zero temps here at times during the winter, and see 110* days in the summer. I drive my car pretty hard. It's got just about 96,000 miles on it now. I do SOME drag racing (a few times a year), but nothing major.

From what I can tell, Mobil 1 0w20 would provide better cold start protection which is great for winter, and it can be used year round. I change it every 3,000 miles (or so, sometimes less if I haven't driven much).

I've owned the vehicle since October 2010 and bought it with 86k miles on it, so I don't do a ton of driving.

Also, what are you opinions on Mobil 1 filters? I've always been sort of brand loyal, so I always chose them thinking Mobil 1 filters were the best match for Mobil 1 oil. Is this true?


Thanks for any input you can give! If you need anymore information let me know. Excited to be a member of this site and to start learning!


EDIT: I should also mention: The car is very lightly modded. Mods include: O/R x pipe, borla stinger catback, short throw shifter, and PI intake. Didn't think that would make a difference, but I'm headed to bed and was hoping to get all the responses I could over night.

 

[synthetic_crazy]

Mobil 1 0W-20 would be a great oil to use for your Mustang. You could extend your oil changes to 5000 miles if you prefer. Motorcraft makes great oil filters; I would stay with one of those. Since you change your oil pretty frequently, a Mobil 1 filter would be a waste of money.

By the way,

to BITOG!

 

[OVERKILL]

I like an xW30 in my 2V engines. I'd run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 and a Motorcraft filter.

The 3V engines got an upgraded oil pump that the 2V engines, which started out on 5w30, didn't get.

 

[Kohrs93]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I like an xW30 in my 2V engines. I'd run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 and a Motorcraft filter.

The 3V engines got an upgraded oil pump that the 2V engines, which started out on 5w30, didn't get.


Would you mind explaining why you would choose 0w30 over 0w20?

 

[Clevy]

I've got the same car. I've run everything from 0w-20 to 15w40 and everything in between. Euro spec and diesel oils too.
In my 2V I found mobil 1 5w-20 and 5w30 to make the top end noisy however all the sopus products I used,in various grades were less noisy and finally stuck with rotella t6 5w-40. When I pulled the heads from the spark plugs spitting out my cams looked new,no wear scar whatsoever at 140000.
Anyways from the options you provided you are correct about the oil flowing faster with a 0 grade and may help cold starting.
If you want to stick with mobil they make a line called Advanced Fuel Economy. It's a bit thinner in it's grade and would reduce drag and pumping losses. If I was going to use any mobil products that line would be it.
They also make an extended drain oil if you wanted to get under the car a bit less.
I love the SN-95 cars. I finally had enough of spark plugs spitting out on mine so I bought the entire drivetrain from an 03 Mach 1. I've got 2 shakers too so I'm painting them different depending on my mood.
Other than the plug issue those engines are basically indestructible when properly maintained,and the seem to last when abused too.
If you need a cai I've got a bbk for sale,and a pp plenum.
Cai don't do much on these cars but do look good. The plenum is the real restriction. The butt dyno days it helped.
I've got tons of parts for these cars so if you need something I likely have one.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Kohrs93
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I like an xW30 in my 2V engines. I'd run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 and a Motorcraft filter.

The 3V engines got an upgraded oil pump that the 2V engines, which started out on 5w30, didn't get.


Would you mind explaining why you would choose 0w30 over 0w20?


Because the engines were designed for 5w30 and subsequently back-spec'd for 5w20 when it became available. The 3V engines were a 5w20 engine from their inception.

 

[Kohrs93]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I've got the same car. I've run everything from 0w-20 to 15w40 and everything in between. Euro spec and diesel oils too.
In my 2V I found mobil 1 5w-20 and 5w30 to make the top end noisy however all the sopus products I used,in various grades were less noisy and finally stuck with rotella t6 5w-40. When I pulled the heads from the spark plugs spitting out my cams looked new,no wear scar whatsoever at 140000.
Anyways from the options you provided you are correct about the oil flowing faster with a 0 grade and may help cold starting.
If you want to stick with mobil they make a line called Advanced Fuel Economy. It's a bit thinner in it's grade and would reduce drag and pumping losses. If I was going to use any mobil products that line would be it.
They also make an extended drain oil if you wanted to get under the car a bit less.
I love the SN-95 cars. I finally had enough of spark plugs spitting out on mine so I bought the entire drivetrain from an 03 Mach 1. I've got 2 shakers too so I'm painting them different depending on my mood.
Other than the plug issue those engines are basically indestructible when properly maintained,and the seem to last when abused too.
If you need a cai I've got a bbk for sale,and a pp plenum.
Cai don't do much on these cars but do look good. The plenum is the real restriction. The butt dyno days it helped.
I've got tons of parts for these cars so if you need something I likely have one.


So if the Advanced fuel economy is a bit thinner, would it be better to move up to a 0w30?

Also, no money for car parts right now

Moving in a week and have a daughter on the way!

 

[Kohrs93]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Kohrs93
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I like an xW30 in my 2V engines. I'd run Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 and a Motorcraft filter.

The 3V engines got an upgraded oil pump that the 2V engines, which started out on 5w30, didn't get.


Would you mind explaining why you would choose 0w30 over 0w20?


Because the engines were designed for 5w30 and subsequently back-spec'd for 5w20 when it became available. The 3V engines were a 5w20 engine from their inception.


Alright, thanks!

 

[Roadkingnc]

If your changing the oil that often why not Pennzoil Conventional 5w20? I dont think you would tell a difference with the 0w20. I would stick with what you are doing with a fl820 and go 7.5 to 10 k. I have a 3.0l freestyle 125k on it mobil 1 5w20 every 10k.

 

[T_CUDA]

I would stick with a synthetic if you run it hard. Those motors are known for having a weak oil pump that can sometimes not keep up under certain loads. I would go to 5k without a ? though. and of course use PU.......

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My 2001 bullitt ran like garbage on 30 but sweet on the 20.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Is this the same engine that was in the 96 GT? My friend had one that ran nothing but conventional 10w30. Had almost 300k on it before someone rear ended him and totaled the car. I`d use a good 10W30 synth. Cheap by the WM jug and easy to find.

 

[6lbsoft]

I used to do oil changes for my buddies' company. He had a fleet of 1997 F150 and F250's with 4.6 and 5.4's. We used nothing but 20w-50 no-name brand oils and when he sold most of the trucks off with 200+ thousand miles they all ran perfectly. I had a 2003 Mustang GT which I ran Kendall 5w30 in it and no issues either. I think the Modular engines are more durable then we think...

 

[aquariuscsm]

The 4.6's are leaps and bounds better than the new 5.0's.

 

[Zako2]

I believe Mobil 1 5W20 is probably a tougher oil than AFE 0W20 in terms of long term shear. However, since you run such short OCIs, I'd don't see why not try AFE0W20 or any other 0W20. If you want to spoil your car, give it the latest versions of Toyota or Mazda 0W20 synthetic. Those are good oils, and analysis reports suggest better than mainstream 0W20 you can buy in a parts store.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Zako2
I believe Mobil 1 5W20 is probably a tougher oil than AFE 0W20 in terms of long term shear. However, since you run such short OCIs, I'd don't see why not try AFE0W20 or any other 0W20. If you want to spoil your car, give it the latest versions of Toyota or Mazda 0W20 synthetic. Those are good oils, and analysis reports suggest better than mainstream 0W20 you can buy in a parts store.


I haven't seen any proof of that. What they are is extremely high VI oils with low HTHS values. Not something I would be comfortable running in a Mustang that gets beat on.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Zako2
I believe Mobil 1 5W20 is probably a tougher oil than AFE 0W20 in terms of long term shear. However, since you run such short OCIs, I'd don't see why not try AFE0W20 or any other 0W20. If you want to spoil your car, give it the latest versions of Toyota or Mazda 0W20 synthetic. Those are good oils, and analysis reports suggest better than mainstream 0W20 you can buy in a parts store.


I haven't seen any proof of that. What they are is extremely high VI oils with low HTHS values. Not something I would be comfortable running in a Mustang that gets beat on.

That' a good point. The Toyota and Mazda 0W-20's are great oils but they are very light, lighter than the spec' 5W-20 at normal operating temp's, so at the very least it would be prudent to install an OP gauge to make sure you can maintain the minimum OP that you want. Or at the very least add a quart of something heavier like Mobil 1 0W-40 which will boost the HTHSV rating of the oil while still retaining a 200+ overall net VI.

 

[donnyj08]

i had a 2002 gt with a procharger running 10psi on an all stock bottom end 4.6l. i ran only ford filters, and motorcraft syn-blend 5w20 at 5k mile intervals. indiana weather is very similar to Illinois i got excellent results with the 5w20, both on cold starts and high rpm protection. Some here will recommend 30wts but they are simply unnecessary. stick with a motorcraft fl820s filter and run a good 5w20 and you will be in great shape.