2000 Honda CR-V, 216k, valvetrain pic

[Graham Piccinini]

2000 Honda CR-V, 5MT and RealTime AWD, aka FWD with RWD training wheels 226k miles.

- 216k miles at the time of this picture, when I did valve lash adjustment.
- Got the vehicle at 201k. Unknown maintenance history before that.
- Will adjust valves again at 230k miles, so it will be interesting to see if frequent oil changes with HDEO and synthetics will do any cleaning.

Sorry, only took one picture before phone overheated and shut off. Tech tip - don't leave the phone in the sun when working on your vehicle.

 

[Hypergalaxy]

Not the best but nowhere near the worse in the grand scheme of things. I know that this may have had one or two extended drain intervals that were uncalled for.
I would suggest looking at a potential timing belt and water pump replacement based on the condition of the belt from the pictures; and please do check your pcv system for any potential obstructions; reduced flow can cause sludge buildup.

Any tips on how to adjust valves? I am about to attempt a valve adjustment on my 4 pot honda.

On another note, Having a 5mt b20 powered crv with "awd" is rare in the first place; but having a person who is mechanically inclined actively taking care of it is even better.
Cheers OP.

 

[doublebase]

Yeah, lot of varnish but in the grand scheme of things? Does it really matter. No.

If the engine has made it that far...and it’s not using oil (you didn’t say that it was), it probably was reasonably well taken care of. The varnish looks like typical 5,000 mile oil change intervals using conventional, I imagine.

But like someone said...I’d probably consider doing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner sand maybe even cam seals (although I’ve taken a Honda to almost 300,000 without ever changing a cam seal).

 

[ka9mnx]

Looks good!

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Yeah, lot of varnish but in the grand scheme of things? Does it really matter. No.

If the engine has made it that far...and it’s not using oil (you didn’t say that it was), it probably was reasonably well taken care of. The varnish looks like typical 5,000 mile oil change intervals using conventional, I imagine.

But like someone said...I’d probably consider doing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner sand maybe even cam seals (although I’ve taken a Honda to almost 300,000 without ever changing a cam seal).

She's a drinker. Up until recently she took a quart of oil per every tank of gas (275 miles). Then I did a piston soak with Berryman B12 and MMO and now oil loss is a quart per 2500 miles. A lot more acceptable, and I believe it will be even less when I replace my leaking oil pan gasket. Just waiting on new headers and exhaust to come in, as that has to be removed anyways to get to the oil pan, and stock exhaust has multiple holes in it from age.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Looks good

The timing belt stripes look like you need a new TB

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Looks good

The timing belt stripes look like you need a new TB

Yea, that's on order for sure. Especially given how many of these B20 engines died due to a ripped timing belt.

 

[Blinker]

I’m amazed by the simplicity of these older Honda’s, Toyota too for that matter

I wouldn’t want to get caught in an accident in one though. A week or so ago I witnessed a Scion run a red light and hit a Honda CRV of this era, crumpled up like a soda can.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Yea, that's on order for sure. Especially given how many of these B20 engines died due to a ripped timing belt.

Interference engines with timing belts suck

At least the Aisin kit isn't too much money from Rock Auto

 

[Factory Condition]

Thank you for posting this photograph. I wish I had also thought of taking one a couple of years ago, when I had the belts replaced.

Were the valve clearances too tight/too loose prior to the adjustment, and if so, by how much?

By the way, this is probably the 1998 model (same as mine). I think that, from model year 1999 onwards, they changed the intake manifold (from the one depicted), along with other tweaks to the engine.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Thank you for posting this photograph. I wish I had also thought of taking one a couple of years ago, when I had the belts replaced.

Were the valve clearances too tight/too loose prior to the adjustment, and if so, by how much?

By the way, this is probably the 1998 model (same as mine). I think that, from model year 1999 onwards, they changed the intake manifold (from the one depicted), along with other tweaks to the engine.

Mine is a 2000 with the B20Z2 engine. Yours is a B20B. I got a paper towel covering the hole in the intake manifold, but normally that's where the silver aluminum box sits, the one that gives +20lb/ft.

All my intake valves were in spec, but on "loose" end, and exhaust valves were almost all out of spec and too "tight". So I set the intake valves in the middle of the spec, and set the exhaust valves on the loose end, since they tighten up over time.