2 stroke Steele Generator

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maverickfhs

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Have this two stroke generator, it runs fine with the choke on(lever on left), but when move it to right it dies down.

Is there any carb cleaning or tuning that needs to be done? Thank you

www.absolutegenerators.com

Steele Products Portable Generator - SP-GG100, 1000 Watt, Gas

1000 surge Watts / 850 continuous Wats 2HP 2-stroke OHV engine (1) 120V AC outlet; (1) 12V DC outlet 1.2 gallon tank Recoil/pull start This Steele SP-GG100 1000 Watt Portable generator offers a 2-stroke, 2HP, OHV engine, (1) AC 120V o
www.absolutegenerators.com www.absolutegenerators.com
 
Cujet said:
The Carb probably has a gummed up main jet. the float bowl is held on by a single nut. flip the thing over, remove the bowl and use spray cleaner to enaure the jet is clear. Pull off the float, clean the needle and seat.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure this is a 2 cycle engine, different type of carb. You can clean them but it that doesn't work they can usually be replaced by a carb from EBay for cheap. There are lots of good YouTube videos on how to service these carbs. I think House Garage on YouTube has videos on doing this.
 
1669931440051.jpg

It has a bowl type. If yours has a screw at the bottom as shown, try turning it ccw for a richer mixture. I have also seen pictures that don't have this screw, which is more typical. In those the jet is inside and not adjustable, but it can get clogged up.
 
@mk378 it is exactly same as you posted, with a screw on the float bowl.

But if I turn it CCW, fuel drips as well - is there a procedure for adjusting it? Thx
 
That means that it is already all the way out-- the passages are clogged so you'll need to take the carb apart and clean it.

Or the screw is a drain screw rather than a needle valve. Does it have a spring on it like in the picture?
 
Its been at least 30 years....

But back when I had 2 strokes the diaphragms in the carb would fail - usually get a tear or something. You might be able to find a rebuild kit for it - which includes the diagrams and gaskets. 2 strokes can run on their side - unlike a 4 stroke - so the carbs are quite different.
 
mk378 said:
That means that it is already all the way out-- the passages are clogged so you'll need to take the carb apart and clean it.

Or the screw is a drain screw rather than a needle valve. Does it have a spring on it like in the picture?
Click to expand...
Yes, it has a spring and a needle inside it. So drain bowl has a 10mm bolt, along with a screw with a spring(needle) inside it.
 
The carb has a float bowl. Remove it and spray clean the "non removable" main jet. Along with the other passageways and the needle/seat assy. The carb probably has a external seal over the idle screw. You can remove this seal and unscrew the idle needle for cleaning.

You can also purchase a replacement carb on Ebay/Amazon for about $11. HOWEVER, the replacement carb may not be jetted correctly (it will probably be on the over rich side) as there are differences among the various brands of these 2 stroke generators. The "fits it all" carb is just a guess with regard to jetting.

Also of note, removing the carb "may not be" quite as easy as it seems, as the throttle linkage probably won't come off without removing the fuel tank and governor rod.

My suggestion stands, flip it over, and spray clean the carb as a first attempt at getting it to run correctly.
 
I would order a new carb for it and keep the original. I have one of these ~900W 2-stroke generators kicking around from when you used to be able to buy them for $50-60 from Hazard Fraught Tools. Handy little lightweight units to keep around. Surprisingly fuel efficient for what they offer.
 
Cujet said:
The Carb probably has a gummed up main jet. the float bowl is held on by a single nut. flip the thing over, remove the bowl and use spray cleaner to enaure the jet is clear. Pull off the float, clean the needle and seat.
Click to expand...
Cujet, You're absolutely right about this carb having a fuel bowel. I was going by my 2 cycle lawn equipment that doesn't. You learn something everyday :).
 
Diaphragm carbs are mostly on handheld machines like chainsaws and leaf blowers because they won't spill when set upside down, and even run at any angle. Two-cycle applications that are expected to stay upright, like push mowers snowthrowers and outboard motors work fine with a bowl type.
 
Did clean all the ports using carb clean. Now it is running without choke, but power output is not smooth and surging.

Speed(rpms) are also going up and down, still a carb issue? Thx
 
maverickfhs said:
Did clean all the ports using carb clean. Now it is running without choke, but power output is not smooth and surging.

Speed(rpms) are also going up and down, still a carb issue? Thx
Click to expand...
Check for vacuum leaks around the carb base. On a 4 cycle I use carb cleaner. 2 stroke wd40.
 
Cujet said:
Surging is often a sign of a lean condition. Does it smooth out when you move the choke slightly?
Click to expand...
Yes, it is definitely running better with choke -> there is a small screw with a spring on the carb top housing in middle of top and governors(?).

Can that be out of adjustment and causing it?
 
Surging is an indication that the carb's low speed circuit has a fuel restriction.
When the throttle valve closes the engine is not getting fuel, when the RPMs drop the governor opens the throttle valve, it draws fuel from the main (high speed) jet and the RPMs pickup, then as the RPMs get high the governor closes the throttle valve and it runs out of fuel, and the process keeps repeating. This is why it surges. When you close the choke a little it cuts off the air supply and forces the governor to open the throttle valve to compensate, getting all of it's fuel from the main jet. This is why it smooths out.
The angled screw with the spring on the top side of the carb is a low speed mixture screw and can vary either the fuel feed or air bleed (depending on the carb design), but typically the fuel feed. The low speed mixture exits through a tiny port on the engine side of the throttle valve. The engine gets ALL of it's fuel through this low speed port when the throttle valve is closed. Turning the mixture screw clockwise richens the low speed mixture and might cure the surge.
Many years ago when I was a young lad and started working on mechanical things, an old mechanic told me something that has always stuck with me... "You have to know how something is supposed to work in order to figure out why it isn't working".
 
A screw with a spring can be the idle speed setting. Not really used on a 3600 RPM generator as the unit rides on the governor all the time, but it does hold the throttle plate from closing too much.

Another screw is the idle mixture "pilot" jet. That one might be behind a "plug" or "seal". If so, take out the plug and remove the idle mixture screw. spray clean until clear both ways, into the float bowl and into the carb.
 
The idle settings are important to avoid surging at low or no load. If it surges or needs the choke on with a heavy load, there is still something wrong with the main jet. Resolve that first before considering the adjustments on the top.
 
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