2-Stroke: Little extra oil during break in ok?

[Chris142]

I got a new Echo chainsaw coming. I been reading up on them and they recomend 50:1 gas/oil mix.

I'm from the old school where we always used 32:1-40:1. To me 50:1 sounds a little thin on the oil. At least during break in where things are tight.

Any problem with running it on 32:1 or 40:1 during break in? I wonder if the EPA had anything to do with the mix ratio?

 

[StevieC]

I have run the Amsoil stuff 100:1 with no problems over quite a few years.. You have nothing to worry about.

I would run the required dilution during break-in as that's whats recommended by them and also because too much oil can slow the break-in IMO.

 

[tom slick]

50:1 is fine. Just like extended OCIs oils have become better making the need for "more" unnessary. the key thing is to run premium fuel.

I am also running amsoil saber professional at 100:1, but I've only done it for about 2 hrs run time so far.

 

[dwendt44]

Many two stroke mfgs suggested extra oil for the first tank or two. Been doing that for years; especially for high stress engines, and chain saws are certainly that.
Not so much anymore; just use a good quality oil and you should be fine.

 

[Chris142]

Back in the 80's I raced 2-stroke 3-Wheelers. I got a new sponsor and they gave me cases of Neo oil that was supposed to be mixed @ 100:1.

I couldn't keep the engine together with that oil at that ratio. It would always seize the piston and I'd have to drop out of the race.

My problems stopped when I went back to Golden Spectro @ 32:1

I'm sure that todays oils are much better than the Neo I was running though. 50:1 just doesn't sound like enough oil for a new engine to me.

 

[Steve S]

I run 40 to 1 in my 50 to 1 as a rule .

 

[Boomer]

My 25 HP Johnson outboard bought around 1987 was a 100:1 mix. Never had a problem. Ran great for many years!

 

[jldcol]

Oil in gas lower it's octane rating, so you can use premium gas to ofset this. The more oil the less power so there is a lower limit on that. I think the gas itself is the primary lubricant in a mix like this, the oil helps remove/prevent deposit build ups, also lowers combustion temps which bearings etc. like better. The needle/roller bearings have much less need for lubing than say sleave type, the oils effect primarily in combustion chamber, with sealing the rings the largest part of that.

 

[wileyE]

Octane isn't lowered much, At 20:1 it's lowered by a point, 92 down to 91.9.

From Shells answer page:

"Q: What happens to the fuel’s octane number when it’s mixed with two-stroke oils?
A: In Shell laboratory tests, a fuel’s octane number only drops by a single point when the two-stroke oil concentration reaches 5%."

 

[jldcol]

A point drop of octane should be from 92 to 91, 92 to 91.9 is a tenth of a point. If thats the case for 87 octane gas to go to 86 then let it age and lose volitiles and get even lower, enough to get below spec and cause problems.

 

[mva]

Yamaha recommended 20:1 for the first tank of gas (13litres) and 100:1 afterwards. This was for a 6hp 1995 outboard motor.

 

[wileyE]

" A. The term "points" is commonly used in the automotive industry when referring to the octane increase a product offers. This is different from the figures shown at your local gas pump, where the octane "rating" of a gasoline is measured in "numbers". This can sometimes create confusion as to how "points" translate to "numbers". The following calculation can be used to translate points to numbers:

1 octane point = 0.1 octane number

Increasing the octane of gasoline has several positive effects on automobile performance. A higher octane gasoline will allow a car to run smoother by reducing knocks and pings, which ultimately restores lost performance.

An example of this might be:

Common regular unleaded gasoline is rated at 87 octane at the gas pump. If you treat that gasoline with an octane enhancement product that claims a 5 "point" increase, then the end result will be a gasoline that has an 87.5 octane rating. In this example, the octane enhancement product provided 5 "points", which is equal to 0.5 octane numbers. "

 

[jldcol]

Thanks for the clarification, I was using the mathematical definition.

 

[RTexasF]

FWIW Echo's brand of two stroke oil is a synthetic blend and 89 octane is recommended for my string trimmer and blower. Both have been run hard on a weekly basis since purchased over a year ago. 50 to 1 ratio is all that has been run using Echo's oil. One or two pulls and they are both running. I see zero need for extra oil and nothing is mentioned in the instructions. The repairman at the facility where I bought the items said "50 to 1 from day one".

 

[FowVay]

I have rebuilt a few Yamaha outboard engines and each of the service manuals for these oil injected engines specifically said to use a pre-mix fuel of 50:1 along with the oil injection system for the first 10 hours.

With this information I'd only imagine that it would be a good idea to use a bit more oil (I prefer 32:1) for the initial break-in.

I always specify a ISO-L-EGD or a JASO FC or FD rated oil.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: FowVay

I always specify a ISO-L-EGD or a JASO FC or FD rated oil.
Those numbers are new to me as I have been out of the 2-Stroke world for a while. Those are what Echo recomends for the thing.

I picked up some Maxima Super M oil last night. The back of the bottle says "Exceeds JASO-FC,ISO-E-GD and API-TC requirements.

Can I use this oil or not?

 

[tamadrummer]

Do not run your 2 cycle mix at more than 50:1. It will only cause you problems! You will end up with unburned oil coking up the exhaust port and spark screen and in the end muck up a good piece of equipment.

I run only Stihl super HP or Stihl ultra HP and Marathon 93 octane fuel. None of my equipment has carbon on the the screens nor in the exhaust ports. In the summer I run Amsoil Saber at 50:1 because it is IMO the coolest running oil for the extreme temps we have here in FL. The key is to run top quality fuel and run your 2 cycle gear at wide open to ensure proper burn in the combustion chamber.

As far as break in goes, for the first 3 tank fulls of fuel, run at 3/4 throttle and then go all out. Fully synthetic Jaso FD/ ISO-L-EGD is the cats meow for your stuff.

I earn my living with this stuff and so taking care of this stuff is totally important to me!

 

[andyd]

My Stihl 041 Farmboss is 31 yrs old. Mix is specced at 40:1. Since day one I have mixed at 32:1 and I often add MMO to it. I only use 87 octane gas. No performance problems, no clogged ports or fouled plugs. I run it wide open.

 

[tamadrummer]

Originally Posted By: andyd
My Stihl 041 Farmboss is 31 yrs old. Mix is specced at 40:1. Since day one I have mixed at 32:1 and I often add MMO to it. I only use 87 octane gas. No performance problems, no clogged ports or fouled plugs. I run it wide open.


Apples to oranges. I don't believe that the EPA has been adding a bunch of stuff to your exhaust to reduce your emissions over the past 31 years have they? With new equipment...... "Break in" you need to run them in a current and valid manner, not in the way it was done even 10 years ago. EPA tier 2 emmissions are a mess for peoples equipment.

Also, the 041/410 is not a farmboss any longer. It is a full sized professional saw that will put a hurt on most people!

 

[Chris142]

It showed up today

I bought a exactly 1 gallon of gas and put the 2.6 oz of oil into the gas. Shook it up, poured some in and fired the saw up. Started on the 3rd pull.

Seems to run great and it's the 1st chain saw I have ever had that actully idled.

I cut right through a log which bogged my old homelite down.

The Engine in the new Echo was made in Japan and the saw was assembled in USA. Hopefully the Japanese engine will be better than a Chinese one.