2 Person brake fluid flush method

[nthach]

I’ve done it when I had someone around. For Toyota hybrids, to carry out the bleeding sequence with a scan tool(which seems to be not the case on a Lexus RXh I worked on last weekend, the 2002-2009 Prius and the 2006-2009 HiHy/Camry Hybrid calls for Techstream or a scan tool with Toyota-specific software and relays to be pulled to disable its brake-by-wire so the front brakes can be bled conventionally) on the rear brakes, someone needs to apply the brake pedal, and then the bleeder is cracked. The brake actuator will run to push fluid. 10 seconds on, close the bleeder and 30 seconds off. I did this twice for the rear wheels.

 

[Accent Abuser]

Has anyone done the method where someone presses the brake pedal and the other person opens the bleeder valve, then the person closes the valve and the person releases the brake pedal?

I’m not too cheap to buy a power bleeder, but it’s more stuff to break and clean.

I’ve never done brake fluid before

Easiest way is to get a bottle with a hose and magnet, stick it to the rotor/drum and pump away. If you pour some brake fluid in the bottle to submerge the hose it's impossible to suck air back. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L52B4CX/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RTDFQWEV6NRZQTWWQ5D1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[benjy]

been using my motive power bleeder over 10 yrs on several vehicles with the proper adapters, always a good solid pedal just keep the canister filled! some of best $$$ i ever spent!! oh i needed to replace a piece of its clear tubing $3

 

[BMW Dom]

been using my motive power bleeder over 10 yrs on several vehicles with the proper adapters, always a good solid pedal just keep the canister filled! some of best $$$ i ever spent!! oh i needed to replace a piece of its clear tubing $3

I might consider.

 

[nthach]

been using my motive power bleeder over 10 yrs on several vehicles with the proper adapters, always a good solid pedal just keep the canister filled! some of best $$$ i ever spent!! oh i needed to replace a piece of its clear tubing $3

I’ve used it as a pressure source only(just air at the reservoir) for bleeding brakes as well. It was a trick I was taught for Toyota hybrids.

 

[haggler]

I posted this in another thread

Avoiding all the fancy contraptions I purchased a hydraulic check valve which I incorporated into my Gatorade bottle with magnet. This is like an external speed bleeder. This made an easy one person job. The instructions state to use the two person method until the valve is primed, I don't think this is really necessary. If you keep the bottle above the caliper no air goes into the system and the valve prevents back flow of fluid. I flushed just under a quart through my kia very quickly; taking the wheels off took most of the time. Note: it helps to purchase extra tubing from Homedepot. I ran the long tubing AFTER the check valve. I was considering replacing my brakes (only 30k at the time) but I'm glad I didn't. The full fluid replacement and bleeding helped tremendously.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08H4ZJBJM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JWC9VXCVVKEF1SRPE054?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Chris142]

Just push down once,hold, open bleeder then close it immediately. Repeat as necessary. If you leave it open any longer air will get trapped in the system.

 

[Lubener]

That's a good idea. I'll do that

Works great for me, just be sure you place the wood in place on the downward stroke of the brake pedal. I can bleed all fours in about 30 minutes.

 

[Wylie6G72]

Vacuum bleeder saved me from having to do this with a human pedal pusher. No risk of damaging the MC.

 

[BMW Dom]

Vacuum bleeder saved me from having to do this with a human pedal pusher. No risk of damaging the MC.

What damage would I do?

 

[doitmyself]

I imagine he's referring to that concept that if you push the brake pedal completely to the floor, you are extending the piston/rod beyond it's enormal range and there is a chance that the seals are damaged from debris/roughness on the rod. Just put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent this.

 

[BMW Dom]

I imagine he's referring to that concept that if you push the brake pedal completely to the floor, you are extending the piston/rod beyond it's enormal range and there is a chance that the seals are damaged from debris/roughness on the rod. Just put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent this.

Okay, that makes sense.

 

[kschachn]

Even if you find someone reliable enough to help you do this job manually you still have to get rid of them afterwards without seeming ungrateful or impolite.

I’ve generally just told my wife or daughter “thank you for your help.”

 

[930.engineering]

I imagine he's referring to that concept that if you push the brake pedal completely to the floor, you are extending the piston/rod beyond it's enormal range and there is a chance that the seals are damaged from debris/roughness on the rod. Just put a block of wood under the pedal to prevent this.

If at all it's roughness (due to corrosion) within the cylinder bore
the piston including its seals is moving in. The rod is just pushing
the piston. It's sitting outside the 'wet chamber'.
This may be an issue with older cars, more than ten years old or
even more than 20 years. It surely isn't anything worth a concern
on a four year old car. On older ones it depends on use and fluid
change interval.
.

 

[JohnnyG]

That's a good idea. I'll do that

That's not too good an idea.

 

[BMW Dom]

That's not too good an idea.

Can you explain?

 

[JohnnyG]

Yes. The idea of having someone press on the brake pedal when you bleed is so you can shut the bleeder valve off BEFORE they get their foot to the floor. To do otherwise will allow air back into the system. Since you can't be both places at once, how are you going to get a 2x4 in there to block the pedal down? You'd need to use the seat cushion (compressed with the pedal up) get under the car, open the bleeder valve, then guess how far down the pedal has traveled with the seat cushion providing the required force.
And as 930.eng explained, you really don't want that pedal to go to the floor anyway.
Now, if you're just trying to get a little bit of air out of a line that MAY have built up, it might work, but that's not my idea of bleeding brake fluid.

 

[BMW Dom]

Yes. The idea of having someone press on the brake pedal when you bleed is so you can shut the bleeder valve off BEFORE they get their foot to the floor. To do otherwise will allow air back into the system. Since you can't be both places at once, how are you going to get a 2x4 in there to block the pedal down? You'd need to use the seat cushion (compressed with the pedal up) get under the car, open the bleeder valve, then guess how far down the pedal has traveled with the seat cushion providing the required force.
And as 930.eng explained, you really don't want that pedal to go to the floor anyway.
Now, if you're just trying to get a little bit of air out of a line that MAY have built up, it might work, but that's not my idea of bleeding brake fluid.

I'm not sure I understand. I thought I would just put a small piece of wood under the break pedal to prevent it from traveling to the floor.

 

[JohnnyG]

I have done it that way with a helper and the same method by myself using a piece of wood to wedge between the seat and brake pedal to hold it down half way while I tighten the the bleed screw.

I apparently don't understand this either.

 

[Blueshound]

We used the two-person method almost constantly when I was fixing cars for a living. One guy in the driver seat, up with the lift, then "Pump it up!" . . . "Hold it down!" We never used a block of wood under the pedal neither. Don't recall ever causing a master cylinder failure in all those VW, Toyota, Honda, etc. Maybe different with American vehicles.

We had a power bleeder device but it took way too long to get it hooked up.

One tip to share, I did used to use a turkey baster to get the reservoir as empty as possible before starting the process.