2-cycle mix ratios

Look at the spark plug, that will tell you if you are running rich. Rich will be a cooler EGT and perhaps not burn as clean. The sparkplug will tell you. Also check the screen in the muffler , make sure is not carbon-ed up. A lot of people neglect the air filter as well. Check both before adjusting the carb.
I took the spark screen out 3 years ago. This past year I replaced the plug and new air filter. Now that I remember I never cleaned out the muffler side, lol. It runs great.
 
Maybe you might be able to answer this question. Even at 80-100:1 the muffler on my sthil gets oily. Am I running too much oil or does the carb need to be adjusted. I get no smoke just oily on the plastic parts and muffler. The exhaust port is clear.
Your carb is not adjusted properly. With Stihl (and most other new EPA stuff) you are often also limited to the adjustments you can make. Also if it's a late model one, the catalytic EPA mufflers will help kill it quick.
 
Note when you say, ”I run rich @ 32:1” you are running the gasoline mixture to the engine LEAN, as that oil isn’t fuel. Running an engine made for 50:1 at 32:1 for example will be “fuel lean” and may not provide full power or run hot.
Flip side is a 32:1 carb mixing fuel/air with 100:1 mix will be running rich.
 
Note when you say, ”I run rich @ 32:1” you are running the gasoline mixture to the engine LEAN, as that oil isn’t fuel. Running an engine made for 50:1 at 32:1 for example will be “fuel lean” and may not provide full power or run hot.
Flip side is a 32:1 carb mixing fuel/air with 100:1 mix will be running rich.
this is why its critically important to adjust your carb to run at the proper 32:1 ratio for most power and longevity.
 
Maybe you might be able to answer this question. Even at 80-100:1 the muffler on my sthil gets oily. Am I running too much oil or does the carb need to be adjusted. I get no smoke just oily on the plastic parts and muffler. The exhaust port is clear.
The nature of any two stroke engine using premix is that at times of low rpm and idling a small amount of oil accumulates in the crankcase. When the rpm increases this oil moves out of the engine and what burns burns and what doesn't burn blows out in the exhaust. It has been this way since the two stroke was invented. Along with convenience oi injection pumps were also designed to deal with this issue by metering the oil to match the rpm, delivering only a tiny amount of oil at idle/low rpm end, equal to say a 200:1 premix and increasing the oil delivery based on throttle plate position to say 32:1 at maximum rpm.
 
Everything I own, OPE wise, is 2 stroke. I mow every week, well not right now, with my 45 and 47 year old Lawn Boys. My Bricktop has the D433 engine, and the 7262 has the D600. I have an email directly from Amsoil stating that they don’t recommend going any thinner than 50:1 in my old green machines. I usually mix either Amsoil Saber or Echo Red Armor between 40-50:1 with ethanol free fuel and they run great. They both still start up with one or two pulls and run nonstop for the roughly 1-1/2 hours it takes me to mow.

I also run the same mix in my Echo CS370 chainsaw, my Poulan and Husqvarna trimmers, my Hitachi leaf blower, and my late 80s Toro CR20E single stage snow blower. So one gas can with one mix in it for everything.

L8R,
Matt
 
Your carb is not adjusted properly. With Stihl (and most other new EPA stuff) you are often also limited to the adjustments you can make. Also if it's a late model one, the catalytic EPA mufflers will help kill it quick.
That sucks. It runs great overall.
 
So, it sounds like with the newer oils you can run 32:1, 40:1, 50:1, etc.

In other words, kinda what ever you want as long as you correctly set your carb for your mix?

So, I wonder if there really is reduced wear from more oil due to more oil or reduced wear due to reduced power output caused by less gasoline in the mix?
 
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