1ZZ-FE with 204k miles switch to synthetic motor oil?
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Hate to mention this cause it's very preliminary. My 17 Soul pushing 80k was burning a quart of VWB every 3000 miles or so. Didn't really bother me and didn't notice it with ST high mileage. I've noticed Valvoline Daily Protection to burn down a bit on a number of cars. Tried MMO and didn't notice any improvement. Rislone high mileage however ( after about 700 miles, way too early) seems to have stopped oil burning. We'll see how it does in the next thousand miles before I drop it.
is this conventional or a blend?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-High-Mileage-SAE-10W-40-Motor-Oil-5-Quarts/16474424
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-High-Mileage-SAE-10W-40-Motor-Oil-5-Quarts/16474424
What's really any better about
Supertech does not specify, but Warren's own MAG1 brand calls their high mileage product, which I assume is the same a synthetic blend, although what's the reall difference between a conventional and a syn blend, couldn't you theoretically have a better conventional than a synblend, you couldn't call a conventional made of all group II with a high viscosity index bordering on being a group III a synblend, but you could take a group II that's on the poorer end and add a little group III to call it a synblend and it'd technically be a worse oil than one that's only allowed to be labeled conventional, right? Although I think mostly now the oil companies are using rather high quality group II base stock and combining them with enough group III in order to meet the newer more stringent requirements of API SP and ILSAC GF6a, at least for 5w30 and 5w20 grades.
I know this is an old post but I bought a 2001 Toyota Corolla for my daughter 6 or 7 years ago for $2k. It had less than 100k miles on it and was consuming oil. On one of the Toyota forums I read using thinner ow-20 synthetic oil helped with consumption because the oil return holes on this model were drilled too small and are prone to sludge build up restricting the oil flow back out of the cylinders hence burning oil. This is when I discovered the cheap Walmart super tech synthetic oil. This oil did slow the consumption and it eventually stopped using oil all together. Was it the oil, who knows.
My daughter put around 150k more miles on it (long commutes to civilization) then gave it to her brother who drove it nearly 50k more with zero oil related issues until he totaled it recently. It sucks because it ran like a top and was sure I could keep it going to 400k. So take it for what it’s worth, can’t say it was the oil or maybe just because I’m a maintenance freak and I change the oil every 3k and keep my cars maintained. All fluids used in this car were super tech for at least the last 150k miles.
So all in all I paid $2k for the car, put $500 worth of fluids, struts all around and ball joints when I bought it. Then another $250 in alternator, PS hose and rebuilt injectors plus a cheap battery later in its life. For a grand total of $2750 for 200k miles of use, that’s money well spent and would have gone another 100k for sure if he hadn’t wrecked it.
My daughter put around 150k more miles on it (long commutes to civilization) then gave it to her brother who drove it nearly 50k more with zero oil related issues until he totaled it recently. It sucks because it ran like a top and was sure I could keep it going to 400k. So take it for what it’s worth, can’t say it was the oil or maybe just because I’m a maintenance freak and I change the oil every 3k and keep my cars maintained. All fluids used in this car were super tech for at least the last 150k miles.
So all in all I paid $2k for the car, put $500 worth of fluids, struts all around and ball joints when I bought it. Then another $250 in alternator, PS hose and rebuilt injectors plus a cheap battery later in its life. For a grand total of $2750 for 200k miles of use, that’s money well spent and would have gone another 100k for sure if he hadn’t wrecked it.
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Kreen definitely helped the oil burning in my previous 1ZZ-FE in a 2001 Corolla. A bit difficult to get but works great. I actually have some in my 2008 1ZZ-FE currently.
I had an oil burning issue with my 2gr-fse with low tension rings, I kept using a thin 5w30 pennzoil platinum which thins out over the 5k interval and over sometime it stopped my consumption too, sounds like thinner oils can clean those piston holes. Albiet I did run it hard to redline back to back to heat things up and this possibly helped too.
As a preventative measure or trying to fix oil consumption? Asking because (from my understanding) the 1ZZ got updated rings and pistons from 2003 to 2008 model years, which eliminates the pre-2003 1ZZ oil consumption issues.
Yea sorry, just for a good cleaning and it certainly cant hurt to clean up any potential deposits. This 2008 doesn't burn any oil like my 2001 did.
I rebuilt 90+ of these engines, it requires a tear down, which can actually be down with the car inside the car or pulling the motor, I prefer pulling the motor, that way I can change the main bearings as well. long story short, the piston oil return holes need to be re-drilled bigger and by doubling the oil return holes. Different oils aren't going to help with the oil burning per say, maybe some engine cleaners that people use, best is pulling the pistons, and installing new rings, along with a cylinder head job which can be down at home with some fairly inexpensive tools.
you will have zero oil consumption afterwards, and I have seen some scratched up engines, none ever burned oil between even extended oil change intervals, just never ever hone the cylinder walls as Toyota recommends against it, and it will lead to oil burning.
you will have zero oil consumption afterwards, and I have seen some scratched up engines, none ever burned oil between even extended oil change intervals, just never ever hone the cylinder walls as Toyota recommends against it, and it will lead to oil burning.
Hmmm!
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Yeah I’ve seen some videos on the rebuilds of these engines. Rings all stuck and the return holes clogged.
I find that sometimes with oil burners, they’re kind of up and down...like, sometimes it seems “better”, and that may last for a bit, but then it gets worse, or comes back...and then it gets better. Then it happens again. Think about it, all those engine revolutions, temperature changes, stress, oil, gas, over and over again. Things happen. But you’re right, the only real way to permanently fix these things is a rebuild, but that’s nit for everyone. Personally if it’s a high mileage 250,000 plus, car, I’d just add oil and maybe try a piston soak now and then. It could “help” for a little while, but it’s not fixing anything. But at that high mileage, who cares? You might still get yourself another 100,000-150,000 miles out of an oil burner if you keep up with topping up and changes.
This video has been shared here many times before, but I feel like it belongs in this thread.
yes, I have seen those "three" oil return hole come back with issues, I used to drill 5 very carefully and evenly, you could try 4 and just make sure to start with a small drill and go to a bigger, more "appropriate" drill size.
these pistons run way tooo hot, and anything other then full synthetic oils, get carbon build up real quick.
also the intake VVT-i gears are very sensitive to maintenance, I have only seen 5 gear actually work properly, out of the 90+, they don't throw a code but you can easily tell a difference in power when the gear is working properly, and the gas mileage is amazing when its functioning as it should.
3 VVT-i gears were good due to full synthetic oil changes, 1 worked after I cleaned it out with brake parts cleaner, over and over and over, completely drying it(many others just simply couldn't be cleaned), 1 worked because a guy topped off using diesel fuel instead of oil when it started to burn oil, it cleaned up the engine really well except the oil return holes were still clogged.
have a 06' vibe and the Toyota 1zzfe with the 4spd tranny has to be one of the most reliable powerplants on earth....this thing just goes on and on with very minimal maint needed....
With that mileage and location, 10w40 would probably be my choice with an oil burner.
The extra protection and performance of synthetic oil will keep engines healthier and running better for more miles/years but in my mind there is no real benefit to switching to synthetic if serious wear is already done.
The extra protection and performance of synthetic oil will keep engines healthier and running better for more miles/years but in my mind there is no real benefit to switching to synthetic if serious wear is already done.
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