1st time storing a car for winter. Start up ?

[slug_bug]

I've never stored a car for winter before. Parked the 2001 Miata in the garage the first week of Dec. I filled the gas tank and treated it with Stabil before parking. Covered the exhaust with tin foil. I haven't started it since. Trickle charged the battery every 3 weeks.

My question is: should I oil fog the cylinders before starting? I realize that if I was going to fog it the best time would have been when I stored it. I elected not to, but, now I'm questioning that decision.

What's the BITOG opinion. Does 4 months of storage require fogging oil?

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Nope. If only 4 months I'd just start it up.

 

[eljefino]

Check to make sure mice haven't eaten your air filter then hit it!

 

[Drew99GT]

Let er eat. Start it and drive it.

 

[JHZR2]

Just top up the battery, turn on the AC (weak link since the rings will leak without use in some cases), and get driving.

 

[gfh77665]

Originally Posted By: slug_bug
What's the BITOG opinion. Does 4 months of storage require fogging oil?


I have stored different vehicles for assorted lengths of time during the past 10 years. Some have stored as long as 2.5 years with nothing other than Stabil added 2X to the gas. Never have fogged any of them. Zero issues.

 

[Donald]

Engines started after being fogged can leave a carbon trace on the spark plug insulator. So its best to start the engine and run it and then change plugs. Almost all of the oil gets burned off but not 100%.

In this case just start it.

 

[bigt61]

4 months is nothing in a garage, even a cold garage. Just get in and go. Forget the trickle charge, just unhook the battery next time.

 

[dparm]

Start the car, wait a minute for the idle to stabilize, and drive it off for another season of enjoyment.

 

[slug_bug]

Thanks for the advice all. I feel a much better about having not fogged it now. I'll check out the air filter then start her up.

 

[demarpaint]

Fire it up. Next time you plan on storing it, consider adding your favorite UCL to the gas in a slightly higher dose. It will keep the injector tips lubed. 4 months really isn't that long.

 

[danthaman1980]

No need to fog it.

The stabil should keep your fuel fresh - Beyond that, I might add a half dose of Regane or Techron to my first tank out of storage. Wouldn't worry about anything else.

 

[440Magnum]

Check for varmints in the air intake, then light 'er off. IF it were me, I'd cycle the key from "off" to "run" and back without cranking two or three times to pressurize the fuel system before cranking it, that way you don't crank as long before it fires.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Check for varmints in the air intake, then light 'er off. IF it were me, I'd cycle the key from "off" to "run" and back without cranking two or three times to pressurize the fuel system before cranking it, that way you don't crank as long before it fires.

While I see your point, cranking a bit (which is slow) will push some oil into the lubricated surfaces before it starts.

 

[SteveSRT8]

^^^How can anyone imagine that slow cranking is not wearing the engine? A slow dry crank is NOT a good thing.

Take a hint from cam mfgrs and carmakers whose specs demand engines must be fired up and immediately revved to at least 12-1500 rpm, sometimes more.

It may seem counter intuitive, but the facts support it.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Check for varmints in the air intake, then light 'er off. IF it were me, I'd cycle the key from "off" to "run" and back without cranking two or three times to pressurize the fuel system before cranking it, that way you don't crank as long before it fires.

While I see your point, cranking a bit (which is slow) will push some oil into the lubricated surfaces before it starts.


Its been fairly well researched and proven that a fast start is better than prolonged cranking. Starting right up builds oil pressure in fewer rotations of the crank than grinding away with the starter.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Check for varmints in the air intake, then light 'er off. IF it were me, I'd cycle the key from "off" to "run" and back without cranking two or three times to pressurize the fuel system before cranking it, that way you don't crank as long before it fires.

While I see your point, cranking a bit (which is slow) will push some oil into the lubricated surfaces before it starts.


Its been fairly well researched and proven that a fast start is better than prolonged cranking. Starting right up builds oil pressure in fewer rotations of the crank than grinding away with the starter.


I wish you could hear our new 3500 Express fire up. Even at 80 degrees it immediately revs to around 1300-1500 rpm! A bit disconcerting to me at first, then i made some inquiries and found out this is strictly designed to get the oil up to the cam sooner for the VVT setup and such.

Friends don't let friends dry crank!

 

[Brent_G]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Check for varmints in the air intake, then light 'er off. IF it were me, I'd cycle the key from "off" to "run" and back without cranking two or three times to pressurize the fuel system before cranking it, that way you don't crank as long before it fires.

While I see your point, cranking a bit (which is slow) will push some oil into the lubricated surfaces before it starts.


Its been fairly well researched and proven that a fast start is better than prolonged cranking. Starting right up builds oil pressure in fewer rotations of the crank than grinding away with the starter.


I wish you could hear our new 3500 Express fire up. Even at 80 degrees it immediately revs to around 1300-1500 rpm! A bit disconcerting to me at first, then i made some inquiries and found out this is strictly designed to get the oil up to the cam sooner for the VVT setup and such.

Friends don't let friends dry crank!


My F150 does a similar thing, revs immediately to 1500 and then depending on temp will idle down after 5-30 seconds. My buddy's Honda F4I motorcycle would idle up to 3300 or so on the first start in the cool spring.

I still know a few who pull the coil wire in the spring, and one who did that on his freshly rebuilt 350 to prime the oil pump. Ouch goes the cam.

Slug_bug - as most have said I would just check everything over and make sure fluids are good/no furry friends made home somewhere in the car. Hop in and fire it up. Thats about all I do with ours and only issue I ever had was carb related. Rear float stuck and filled the intake up to the carb with gas before i caught it.