1st Time Redline User: Oil pressure light + Rough startup

[Brandon Gatz]

Dumped my RP+LC20 after 6k mi and replaced it with Redline 5w40 in my 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD 2.4 turbo, has 108k miles. Used OEM Mann oil filter.

My first cold startup on this OCI this morning the car stuttered and shuttered for about 3 seconds, during which the Oil Pressure idiot light plum lit up. After 3-5 seconds all felt normal and the car has run like a top all day. The oil pressure light has never lit up before. Did I make a mistake with my $56 investment in 6qt's of Redline?

 

[Thatwouldbegreat]

I have never had a bad experience with Redline!

I don't know what was going on at startup...but I doubt it was Redline.

I've never tried RP, but I think that you'll find that Redline is awesome stuff!

 

[bruce381]

""Did I make a mistake with my $56 investment in 6qt's of Redline?""

No any start up low pressure problems are maechanical related or air block NOT RL.
bruce

 

[Rodbuckler]

You need to do the entire oil change from fully hot shutdown to refire in the shortest time possible. Fill the new oil filter, too.

 

[JHZR2]

thats what Ive found to be the best - eve if it sits for a long time and refills, though, the light doesnt stay on for more than 3 seconds or so... 3-5 seconds probably has to do with your counting speed and excitement to see how it ran, I wouldnt worry about it so long as it doesnt come on when the car is normally starting up.

JMH

 

[LarryL]

I'm a long time RL user, for my wife's 850 turbo with about 155k miles. My last uoa was good and I have another to send in.

 

[Leo]

Are you using the same oil filter as in the past? You might have a faulty ADBV.

 

[Alcibiades]

If there really is a problem, I seriously doubt it's the oil. Redline pumps just as well as any other -- and better than most when cold.

Any updates?

 

[LargeCarMan]

Did you drain the oil out of the pan for a long time?

I find that the quicker I can do the oil change the faster the car gets oil pressure.

Some of us eat lunch while the oil is draining. I feel that everything tends to drain out creating a delay in oil pressure. I also put a little oil in the filter to help the fill there.

I did have a engine do what happened to you once and it ticked and gurgled for a few seconds...I made the paronoid reach for the key and turned off the engine. I re-started the engine and it did the same thing. The 3rd start ended the ticking....really weird....by the way the engine is still running with 193K.

 

[Brandon Gatz]

The car shutters and stutters no more at cold startup, nor does the oil pressure light illuminate. So far I'm happy with the RL, the car is smooth as silk.

 

[buster]

You need to give an oil time to lay down it's protective layer. Most people change oils too often. I have RL in the car now. Runs very smooth.

 

[hotrat]

I dont think you damaged anything, the oil pressure light just relays oil pressure at its source, so you likely has pressure everywhere else first.

 

[Clyde65]

You forgot to mention what the RP was (viscosity)?

 

[Brandon Gatz]

RP = 5w30

i wanted to go 5w30 with the RL, however the tech support line recommendation was 5w40, with our record 3 digit temps here in NC.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

After mentioning his prior use with a thinner RP oil & LC-combined - being LC thins oils even more.... well the answer may be in his "before & after" viscosities. I'm assuming all this - since he didn't mention adding any LC to this new "thicker" RedLine oil.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Not oil related! One mistake many people make is that they drain the pan and remove the filter. This lets air into the system. You either need to change the filter before you drain the pan or you need to refill the pan before changeing the filter.

I ran Redline 5W40 dureing winter with no pumping problems at all. It got down to -28°F that one night and was -18°F when I cranked it up to go to church. Most peoples vechiles in my area would not start up.

If this happens again I would replace the filter and see if that solves the problems. Even the best filter manufactures build and release a few lemons per year. Is it safe to assume that this engine has been well maintained and does not have any sludge or varnish issues? If the answere is yeas and you have used LC for at least the last previous oil changes then I would imagine that the bypass valve is working fine baring any abnormal wear.

 

[LargeCarMan]

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
[QB] Not oil related! One mistake many people make is that they drain the pan and remove the filter. This lets air into the system. You either need to change the filter before you drain the pan or you need to refill the pan before changeing the filter.

I believe JOHN has the answer!

 

[chrome]

I drain the oil, leaving it for about half an hour, then replace the filter with a new filled one. Fill engine with oil, and pull the fuel injection fuse. Crank the engine in short bursts (3-4 seconds) a few times so that the oil pump will pick up and prime the oil galleries.

Reinstall the fuse, start the engine, and the oil light goes out quickly just like normal, and no unusual tapping from the hydraulic tappets.

If I don't do this, the oil light stays on for a longer period of time, and the hydraulic tappets get real loud.

 

[carock]

For whatever reason, your oil pump had to prime itself on start up. This usually only happens when starting a newly rebuilt motor. Only a problem if it keeps happening under normal circumstances.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Not all vechiles experince a drastic re-prime situation even with poor oil change procedure. Some vechiles are more prone to this then others. Land Rover sent out bulitin long ago addressing this situation. My wifes Buick will get a rod knock for a second or two if you drain the pan and change the filter at the same time. If done the way I mention above then you never get a rod knock. Most newer Toyota's do not seem to care one way or the other. Even if the vechile does not seem to care the method I mentioned in the above thread is considered best practice.