1st Time Redline User: Oil pressure light + Rough startup

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Did you fill the filter with oil before you put it on? They can soak up quite a bit, and they start out very dry.
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A regular size filter can probably hold at least a pint of oil. Pour some in 'til it's full, let it soak in, then repeat a few times.
 
This is among the more inane threads around here in a while.

Having a low oil light flash for a couple seconds on the first start following an oil change is completely normal.

Virtually no commercial shop prefills filters. They all make the same "mistake" of draining the pan and removing the filter. Been doing it that way for decades. And that's the typical way to do it.

As long as the engine has run recently (i.e. driving it into the service bay), there is still enough residual lube to cover the dry start.

Some of you guys talk this into obscure rocket science.
 
quote:

Is it safe to assume that this engine has been well maintained and does not have any sludge or varnish issues?

i do not know the service history prior to 82k, when I purchased it for $14k from Carmax. I performed 4 consecutive ARX treatments, after which she smoked violently during the 3th treatment, caused by, I assume, the sludge being finally knocked loose and expelled. The smoking stopped after 6 days and the car felt reborn. I performed the 4th treatment for gits and shiggles, but no more smoke was to be had...so I 'assume' all the sludge has gone byebye.

I am anxiously awaiting the invention of a sludge meter to install next to the boost gauge.

After 8k mi of ARX+dino I've used M1 EP+LC,RP+LC, now Redline-LC(consecutively) for my OCI's.

There remains a persistent layer of varnish on the internals, as seen from the birds' eye view of the oil cap peephole. I am out of ideas for cleaing her to the bone....
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
This is among the more inane threads around here in a while.

Having a low oil light flash for a couple seconds on the first start following an oil change is completely normal.

Virtually no commercial shop prefills filters. They all make the same "mistake" of draining the pan and removing the filter. Been doing it that way for decades. And that's the typical way to do it.

As long as the engine has run recently (i.e. driving it into the service bay), there is still enough residual lube to cover the dry start.

Some of you guys talk this into obscure rocket science.


Can't say I don't agree.

If your worried that much...maybe it should stay in the garage.
crushedcar.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:
This is among the more inane threads around here in a while.
Some of you guys talk this into obscure rocket science.


To some/most of us this is our rocket science adventure of our lifes...so what is your point?

My oil gauge jumps right away after I do my "quick" OCI.....My oil light just flickers for a nanosecond....really!

Nanosecond/rocket science/startrek/to space and the obsure places behond gittyup.
 
I guess the only other statement I would like to make is the following with a closing question:

Over the years, we have improved in every aspect of lubes for our equiptment. People try to find everyway to make equiptment last longer and prolong life.

Engine builders long ago just dipped the pistons in oil and white greased the bearings and filled the pan with oil and started the engine. Today, we have specific lubes to build engines....we also prime the oil systems before we start the engine for the first time....

Which is the better way to do this? I think we all know the answer!
 
You also must think of how unrefined(by today's standards) machining was back then though.

Bigger clearances so an ultra refined assembly lube was not needed nor priming of the oil pump.

If it was that critical someone would have devised a setup where an electric motor was integrated into the mechanical pump thereby providing instant pressure before you even hit the starter.
 
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