- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
I would just keep on keeping on!
I wouldn't say the 1ZZ is a bad engine. Just a lot of issues from subpar maintenance. The 2AZ was a bad engine.Bennie is the person who first documented the 1zzfe fix on this generation of Corolla.
I have heard a couple of chemical fixes like piston soak with Berrymans and xyz products, but most documented trials did next to nothing. The 1zzfe motor was really a bad motor and if the ownership OCI history was sketchy it didnt do any favors.
Why? What's the MMO going to do other than thin the oil?Put 20% MMO in it next oil change and run it 2000 miles. Maybe do it again after a full run of straight oil.
Other than than, keep running it.
Anything that arrives on your doorstep within 2 days can hardly be described as “harder to get”. Whether it makes financial sense to the OP can only be determined by the OP, but it can be objectively argued that every single penny one spends on HPL over and above any shelf-stock oil is directly repaid thru the use of the finest materials available. There are no compromises because unlike shelf-stock oils, the parent company is targeting a great product, not a given price point.Boutique oil in a 23 year old Corolla seems like a fool's errand.
Why pay double the price for a product that's harder to get only to put it into a 20+ year old vehicle???
Any reasonable person looking at that picture and reading OPs comments would conclude to carry on with the same regimen that got the car to this point.
The varnish isn't hurting anything.
I sometimes do it myself, so I’m asking you: do you read your own posts before clicking the post button? After two paragraphs of telling the OP what he should arbitrarily change out even though he didn’t share any current problems, you tell him “it’s a Toyota so it doesn’t need much”, and after going through a cornucopia of various oil additives, many of which have been shown ineffective or even officially not delivering your claims (Lubegard has publicly confirmed BioTech will NOT clean deposits), and “cycle between 5w30/0w40 full synthetics” etc, you tell the OP not to worry about fancy oils or additives!Sludge is poor maintenance interval. Varnish is usually textbook religious scheduled OE/dealer recommended intervals.
Vary the 5w30, 10w30, 0w40 full synthetic oil brands/grades. And, keep the oil/filter change interval every 5000 miles or less. Engine will clean up all by itself with current spec oils. Go thicker if there is oil consumption. Follow the HTHS ladder. You will find a grade/brand that might reduce consumption, especially if excessive now. If not excessive, then its normal!
Use an oversized filter. The PH4967 thimble can be upsized to the 4386, 3614, and 3600 filters.
Replace the PCV valve, plugs, thermostat, coolant, cap, transmission fluid, PSF, belt... normal maintenance to get it running good, efficient, and clean. Most of my o2 sensors failed at around that mileage on my Toyotas. Run a quality FI cleaner.
Add a can of BG MOA 110. Its discontinued but still available. Was replaced with lspi MOA 115 and greenie MOA PE06. Other cheap and easy to use cleaners would be a pint of solvent from MarvelMysteryoil or Rislone, detergents from STP Synthetic oil treatment(gold botle), or maybe some help from the ester in Lubegard Biotech. Honestly, I don't see the need to clean it if you start using synthetic oil and a sane interval, and keep it full always. Check that dipstick often. My 1.8's never developed the known oil consumption issues but ran 5k synthetic intervals since new.
Being a Toyota, other than the current tuneup, don't see it needing much, other than timely maintenance and full oil levels. Don't see the need for overpriced additives or oils. Local autopart stores and walmart have fluids/filters and looking for rebates, sales, clearance fluids... will keep it running for a long time. If you're ok with 3k interval, don't even need synthetic oil either.
I sometimes do it myself, so I’m asking you: do you read your own posts before clicking the post button? After two paragraphs of telling the OP what he should arbitrarily change out even though he didn’t share any current problems, you tell him “it’s a Toyota so it doesn’t need much”, and after going through a cornucopia of various oil additives, many of which have been shown ineffective or even officially not delivering your claims (Lubegard has publicly confirmed BioTech will NOT clean deposits), and “cycle between 5w30/0w40 full synthetics” etc, you tell the OP not to worry about fancy oils or additives!
Advice can be good, even better when it’s all on the same basis in a single post, and excellent when it’s actually based in fact. Be better.
Yes, I bought and used it (with no discernible benefits, I might add), and even had some lab testing done on it… along with emailing Lubegard directly, and the Lubegard email chain is where I got the information that BioTech does not remove deposits.concerning what Lubegard can or can't do. It does have an ester. And, esters have some properties. Have you tested it? Don't assume or put words in my mouth and why I recommend certain products.
I'll second what @OVERKILL said ... look to HPL for a solution. However, you might think about a peek inside the cylinders with a boroscope (I believe that's the name of the tool) to see what, if any, damage has been done to the cylinder walls and whatever else you can see.Thought I'd throw an update in here since there have been some heated convos lately.
I ran a couple of short 2-3k OCIs with 5w-30 M1 HM Full Synthetic and Purolator filters to clean out any sludge(don't want to run any cleaners through since the seals are old).
I went on a 400 mile road trip and had to top up the oil regularly every hour(consumed about 1.5 quarts total). This only really happens when going at higher speeds(65+ mph). Since then, I've switched to a thicker oil and am now running 10w-40 Valvoline Maxlife(Syn Blend) and regular OEM Toyota filters from the dealer.
The other thing I noticed is oil consumption is really only an issue when the oil has been in the car for 2000 miles or more. On brand new oil, no oil consumption occurs(probably because it's brand new, thick, and hasn't been broken down).
Next time I pop the valve cover off for a new valve cover gasket, that's when I'll know the results of keeping up with these oil changes and the varnish. I don't have any regrets buying this vehicle, it drives incredibly comfortably and has very few issues other than the oil consumption. Not to mention it looks new
If the rest of the car looks as good as this photo, it might be worth spending a bit on the engine. Compared to the cost of a newer car…Thought I'd throw an update in here since there have been some heated convos lately.
I ran a couple of short 2-3k OCIs with 5w-30 M1 HM Full Synthetic and Purolator filters to clean out any sludge(don't want to run any cleaners through since the seals are old).
I went on a 400 mile road trip and had to top up the oil regularly every hour(consumed about 1.5 quarts total). This only really happens when going at higher speeds(65+ mph). Since then, I've switched to a thicker oil and am now running 10w-40 Valvoline Maxlife(Syn Blend) and regular OEM Toyota filters from the dealer.
The other thing I noticed is oil consumption is really only an issue when the oil has been in the car for 2000 miles or more. On brand new oil, no oil consumption occurs(probably because it's brand new, thick, and hasn't been broken down).
Next time I pop the valve cover off for a new valve cover gasket, that's when I'll know the results of keeping up with these oil changes and the varnish. I don't have any regrets buying this vehicle, it drives incredibly comfortably and has very few issues other than the oil consumption. Not to mention it looks new
View attachment 133933
Yes and yes, I agree. I think the only thing I can really do for it is to maybe do a piston soak by this point, but I think I'm going to do that at the end of this OCI.If the rest of the car looks as good as this photo, it might be worth spending a bit on the engine. Compared to the cost of a newer car…