1998 Dodge van transmission sloppy

[chillman88]

Hey all,

My church has a 1998? (it's between 96 and 2000) Dodge 1500 conversion van that we use as a bus. The transmission is shifting sloppy, and when cold, doesn't like to move. I got it up to temp and checked the fluid and its about 1/2 way up the hash marks. I was told that there was a part replaced in the transmission, but I'd bet it was just the filter. The fluid looks fine. The van has about 180k miles on it. What would you reccomend? I've considered trying an additive first. I'm not sure I dare try a fluid change on a transmission with that many miles of unknown condition.

 

[NHGUY]

Sounds like leaky internal seals until they warm up.Cold,pressure is bleeding by.Its days are numbered unfortunately.Had an A727 do that very thing,eventually had to floor it just to get it to move.

 

[chillman88]

eww... that sounds like a "cheap fix" (sarcastic tone strongly implied)

Are there any seal conditioners that are worth anything? We would like to get all the use we can out of it.

 

[ltslimjim]

I had a neglected Stratus 4 speed w/ OD that had hard shifting into reverse, was on the original ATF III up until 8 or 9 years later and would shift really delayed/have hesitation issues entering overdrive; especially in colder weather. Once warm it was 'okay' but symptoms of hesitation again in the summer heat and in stop 'n go driving. The fluid was long since worn out, and ATF III is garbage, especially compared to the ATF+4 replacement. My car's transmission was behind, but had about 90,000 miles when I started getting it away from the factory fill.

Chang your fluid yourself or pay a shop the labor to drop the pan(if no drain plug). Go ahead and replace the filter in the pan(if applicable), with a dealer part OR a Wix kit(they generally have good AT fitler kits with gaskets etc) for your transmission.

I found topping off with 2 drains, 2 filter changed each time(had to drop the pan each time so why not?) delayed across 1 year AND adding Lubegard's red bottled ATF protectant has it shifting close to new again. You add 1 ounce of Lubegard per quart, but in your situation if you are throwing additives at it, add 1.5-2 ounces/quart of ATF of the lubegard on top of using a good brand name ATF+4(just preference) on the refill.

Just my advice and what I would do if I were stuck with the van.

 

[meep]

trans isn't long for the world. suggest dumping lucas transfix (i think that's what it's called) and you may get some more life out of it.

perhaps carry a bottle of brake fluid as a limp home resort-- a tblspoon or two will swell the seals and get you and your passengers to a safe place... but the seals will dissolve within a few weeks so once you do this, it's strictly a last resort.

 

[artificialist]

Put Lucas AT additive in there, and save up your money for a rebuilt transmission.

 

[ltslimjim]

The only symptom he described:

Quote:
The transmission is shifting sloppy, and when cold, doesn't like to move.


Define sloppy shifting and doesn't "like" to move.

 

[chillman88]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
The only symptom he described:

Quote:
The transmission is shifting sloppy, and when cold, doesn't like to move.


Define sloppy shifting and doesn't "like" to move.


Lethargic. You need to push the pedal down really far to get it to start to move, then you can let up on the pedal. and what I mean by Sloppy shifting is it is really slow to shift, I'm used to my truck that will shift quickly, and sometimes jerky. This you can feel it shifting, but it's slow, you hear the RPMs change, but loose power for a couple seconds.

 

[SteveSRT8]

If it flares during the shifts it's a bad sign. That particular year had a lot of bad converters that would blow material throughout the trans destroying it in short order. There's an updated converter available, but you have to be careful to get the updated one ONLY.

Any slip in a slushbox is very bad. How's the delay in engagement?

 

[chillman88]

I will try to get a look at it tomorrow, been a little while since I drove it. If I'm the only one in it, I can gauge it a little better. I'm assuming the converter change would be practically useless if the tranny is already slipping bad, right?

Funny, I've never heard the term "slushbox" before!

 

[MolaKule]

The valves may just be varnished lowering the pressure to the actuators. Get a change out to ATF+4 and see if you notice even a minor difference.

Don't take the word of anyone else at church about maintenance.
Been there done that because most of these guys treat the church vehicles like rental vehicles that is, surely someone else is doing the maintenance.

 

[ltslimjim]

+1 on a simple fluid change right away. Pedal to floor sounds bad, but it may be as Steve mentions as well.

Depending, you may be able to get a rebuilt transmission with updated converter but start with how you are best able to gather evidence, especially if you are 'stuck' with the vehicle anyway.

It appears there are 3 different transmission filter kits offered by WIX, for instance, if you can't afford/dont want the dealer filter kit. It depends on the engine size.

I'd change the filter now for kicks while you are swapping fluid. Period. Probably another later if hope is revived. At most, a fluid change won't break the bank for you, hopefully.

 

[Maritime Storm]

Also most Chrysler transmission you have to check the fluid in neutral not park(it will be indicated on the dipstick) as the pump is not activated in park.

 

[chillman88]

Thanks for the input guys. There are only a couple people who I would trust their advice, but I know them well enough to trust them anyway. I was told that the shop "replaced a part" when we got it, I'll look into what part it was. I'd assume it was the filter, but who knows. I'm the one in charge of maintenance right now.

Good to know about the neutral not park thing. The fluid level seemed wrong to me, but I WAS checking in park. I'll check it when I get time. I've just been busy. The one who drives that van is one of the few people I trust, and he hasn't complained yet, so I'm not too worried... yet.

What about the "seal conditioner" type stop leak products, good/bad? Normally I'd be willing to try them, but it's not MY vehicle, so I'm not the one stranded when it breaks down!

Also, are the fluids reverse compatible? I'm curious about the one for this, but also my personal vehicle. My personal vehicle is supposed to use Dexron III, can I change the filter and put Dexron VI in with what's left of the Dexron III (personal vehicle is a GM Truck)?