1992 Corolla keeps cutting, again.

[M1Accord]

My 1992 Corolla, after having the fuel pump replaced, stil cuts off while driving. this time, it will restart after 5-10 minutes cool down and cut off again after some driving.

AAP system check with Midtronic indicates I may have a bad connect with the alternator but my battery and starter are fine. In fact, my battery still puts out 13+ volts. A check by AZ lists everything as fine but the checker didn't ask me to turn on AC, high beam, or rev engine.

Anything you guys could think of?

 

[friendly_jacek]

I clicked here because I though you said cursing. I need reading glasses.

No idea what the problem is. Ignition? Electric connectors? Ground connections?

 

[55Test]

I bet it's ignition related

 

[heyu]

Fuel pump relay?

 

[yonyon]

Either you're losing spark or you're losing fuel. You need a way to check one or the other when it doesn't run. Checking for spark is safer because if you make a mistake you probably won't set yourself on fire. Get an inline spark tester and see if you've got spark when it's dead. You probably don't but guessing won't help, you need to test.

Alternatively, when it won't run, crank it over for 15 seconds, let it cool for ten, then crank for another fifteen, then immediately sniff the tailpipe. This will tell you if you're getting any fuel.

If you have a pacemaker don't touch anything related to spark ignition.

Edit: I'm assuming that after it stalls you can crank but it won't start. It if won't crank that's different.

 

[GumbyJarvis]

Buddys old 93 Camaro did the same thing

turns out it was a security relay

 

[vssjim]

if you have spark just spray alittle carb cleaner in the intake if it runs you have no fuel. After thst if it is no fuel then fuel pump or injectoer pulse would be next step. toyota fuel pump relays haven't been the best if it is one of those round nippon denso relays.

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: GumbyJarvis
Buddys old 93 Camaro did the same thing

turns out it was a security relay



That's GM-land. GM, Chrysler, Honda, and Mitsubishi all had some form of the "one relay to kill them all" problem in those days. Toyota didn't. This is a nice repeatable "doesn't run" problem. A simple drill down diagnosis will find the problem just as easily on this Corolla just as fast as it would have on that Camaro.

 

[crazyoildude]

did you use a genuine Toyota pump and change the filter? If not that may be your problem

 

[The_Jeff]

Fuel pumps whine: No whine, no fuel.

Agree on the spark check. If you position things right you can watch through the windshield and the little slit by the cowl when the hood is open.

Even if your alternator took a temporary vacation the car would keep running off the battery.

 

[mechtech2]

It is common for ignition components to fail when hot.
Check igniters and coils.

 

[mattd]

which engine? If its a 1.8 the coil inside the distributor is highly suspect. An easy sign its bad is a big crack across the epoxy.

I just checked your setup and it looks like you have a 1.6 engine. It has the same setup as the 1.8. Remove the distributor cap/rotor and ignition coil shield and inspect the coil. i'll bet there is a large crack in the epoxy, which would cause your symptoms.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: mattd
which engine? If its a 1.8 the coil inside the distributor is highly suspect. An easy sign its bad is a big crack across the epoxy.

I just checked your setup and it looks like you have a 1.6 engine. It has the same setup as the 1.8. Remove the distributor cap/rotor and ignition coil shield and inspect the coil. i'll bet there is a large crack in the epoxy, which would cause your symptoms.

What I find is that it is best to have the distributor rebuilt, because I have to replace numerous distributors due to a lack of signal to the ECM.

No signal to ECM means no spark and no fuel.

 

[ltslimjim]

Ignition problems may show up under load generally, right? This wouldn't happen at idle for example and have no problems at full load and still have an electrical issue, for example?

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Ignition problems may show up under load generally, right? This wouldn't happen at idle for example and have no problems at full load and still have an electrical issue, for example?


That is true on the secondary side of the ignition. That would be from the coil to the spark plug inclusively.

On the primary side, pickups, modules/igniters, and coils are temperature sensitive. pickups and coils are also sensitive to engine speed. Also, pickup problems due to mechanical wear of parts other than the pickup itself can be sensitive to engine speed.

By pickup I mean crank and cam sensors.

 

[JamesBond]

Below is a cut/paste from a different thread but my apply to your situation.

I had a '95 Camry (I realize its different from your Corolla, but still...) that had problems starting when hot. Starting after 5 min at the gas station worked fine, 20 min at the store, and it wouldn't start. Always started when cold and never died while driving. Turns out one of the parts in the distributor had no continuity after sitting and heat soaking but if you waited 15 minutes with the hood open, it would start right back up and run fine. I ended up having to buy a reman. distributor from Autozone, because I couldn't find a way to buy just the part.

p.s. I also replaced the fuel pump before I figured out the real problem. The fuel pump was not running because of the problem with the distributor. Find a manual and test your distributor while hot.