1990 K1500 Front End/Suspension Overhaul Complete

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 1, 2012
Messages
2,919
Location
Indiana
I got my truck back from the shop last night. I've driven it about 70 miles since and I'm VERY pleased with the results.

I took the truck into my mechanic's shop because: ball joints were popping when making turns, I could see one of the torsion bar links were broken, and the truck was all over the road, especially at highway speeds.

I bought the truck 3 years ago, put 30k miles on it since and it's an oil burner. It was VERY sludged up when I bought it. It makes all kind of ticking and knocking noises, especially at start up and hot idle. But, a replacement engine is fairly cheap for this truck, the body and interior are nice, so I decided to throw money at the truck, and thus, making the decision that when the engine dies, I'll be repowering her with a new motor.

The truck got the following:

-Raybestos Professional Grade Upper and Lower ball joints
-Moog outer tie rod ends (inner ends were just fine)
-Raybestos Service Grade Pitman and Idler Arms
-Raybestos Service Grade Sway Bar Links (both sides)
-Front brake lines (the flexible section for the fender well to the caliper)
-Monroe Magnum Gas Shocks all the way around
-Tightened the steering column (previous owner used the steering wheel to hoist his butt into the seat, so there was about 3" of play either way on the steering column).

All the parts I bought at Rockauto. He installed. Total bill was $860. Very pleased with the price, even more so with the results.

Next up on the list, some new rubber. My rear tires are probably fine for a bit (10k miles), but my fronts are SHOT. I'd like to get all new rubber though. All tires are showing signs of cracking at various stages.

I found a local shop who will install 4 new Mastercraft (Cooper's) 265/70-16's with a front end alignment for $600 out the door....should I go for it?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Phishin
It was VERY sludged up when I bought it. It makes all kind of ticking and knocking noises, especially at start up and hot idle.


What have you done to address these (sludge, ticking/knocking) issues?
 
Get the tire place to toss in free rotation for life of tire.

What about the stabilizer bushings?

I would have done all the tie rod ends. Since if it has to be done now it requires another alignment.
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

What have you done to address these (sludge, ticking/knocking) issues?


I've run 3 quarts of Kreen through her. A few gallons of MMO. All kinds of various oils. I've been running RESTORE in the oil for the last 8 months or so. Truck runs so much better (it evened out the compression). Idles and runs so much more smooth. Just noisy. But not RIDICULOUS noisy. Just noise and tired engine. For example, I steam clean the engine by feeding her a gallon of water down the intake every 6 months. I have to change the plugs every 10k miles. And cylinder #1 needs it's spark plug changed every 2000-3000 miles. She runs OK. I pull my 18' fiberglass boat 200 miles each way to Lake St. Clair several times a year with the truck without issue. The truck engine could last another 40k miles or another 40 minutes. Hard to tell. It's a SBC....these engines run longer in worse shape than anything ever built.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald

What about stablilizer bushings?

I would have done all the tie rod ends. Since if it has to be done now it requires another alignment.


If you're talking about the stabilizer bars that run verticle between the control arm and the torsion bar, those were replaced as well....the whole assembly (bar, bushings, etc.)

I wasn't about to put new tie rod ends on it just because. If it needs new ones down the road, I'll address it then. No biggie.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
How do you like the Monroe Magnum shocks?


So far, they are perfect for me. I can't complain. I got a set for like $120. Can't beat that. Ride is nice, yet firm. Good for a big ol' truck.
 
Last edited:
My Ram had brand new Mastercraft Courser A/Ts on it when I bought it-they were dry rotted junk within 3 years with extensive sidewall cracks. I'd pony up a little more for Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 2s-you won't be sorry!
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam

What have you done to address these (sludge, ticking/knocking) issues?


I've run 3 quarts of Kreen through her. A few gallons of MMO. All kinds of various oils. I've been running RESTORE in the oil for the last 8 months or so. Truck runs so much better (it evened out the compression). Idles and runs so much more smooth. Just noisy. But not RIDICULOUS noisy. Just noise and tired engine. For example, I steam clean the engine by feeding her a gallon of water down the intake every 6 months. I have to change the plugs every 10k miles. And cylinder #1 needs it's spark plug changed every 2000-3000 miles. She runs OK. I pull my 18' fiberglass boat 200 miles each way to Lake St. Clair several times a year with the truck without issue. The truck engine could last another 40k miles or another 40 minutes. Hard to tell. It's a SBC....these engines run longer in worse shape than anything ever built.


I always say a chevy will run like [censored] longer than most cars will run.
smile.gif
 
Hello, During the Summer of 2012 I helped a pal with his 1989 K1500 with a worked small block. Blueprinted block, forged pistons and rods and more. Well over 400 HP.

His diffs originally came with pawls which would swing out and lock. They're not well designed and he had both diffs rebuilt long before I ever saw the vehicle.

A head gasket blew cylinder to water jacket. I have some cool pictures of the repair. He had the joints of the front driveshaft replaced and a custom exhaust installed. 'Twas a real beast of a truck.

He sold it. Kira
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top