1988 Dodge B250 Tire rating

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Oct 16, 2010
Messages
2,488
Location
california
6400GVWR

Original rim size is 15 x 6.5

5x5.5 pattern

p235/75/15 Xl 36 front 41 rear, is what my door placard says on my 89 b250. Starcraft conversion

I've been running 30x9.5x15s, but have never weighed my converted '89, but I carry a good amount of additional weight, and if I run 50PSI they wear in the middle faster than the edges.

I know of a female couple with an extended converted 1988 b250 running LT235 75 15's, and they know they carry way too much weight inside.

I've always been concerned about the light 3/4 ton with 15 inch rims and tires and 5 lugs, but my only tire related issues, not related to age, were buying some noname tires which did not Like Baja's washboard.

When those tires failed at speed they took out the rims.
The aftermarket rims I bought are not as burly as the originals and the hub size is too big for proper idiot proof wheel centering, but they have 100K miles on them.

I keep considering acquiring 16 inch rims and higher rated tires, but keep coming back to the fact that I do not require full PSI in my LT load range C

1984x4=7936
GVWR is 6400
Unconverted and empty, vehicle weight is just under 4000lbs.
 
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I looked it up and the source I found said an 87 B250 had a curb weight of 4030lbs and a GVWR of 6100 or 6400 depending on the variant. That doesn't leave you with much cushion, capacity wise. 1200lbs of conversion material + 1000lbs of people and gear puts you over 6100lbs.

Definitely get it weighed. Also, be aware that the weight distribution will likely not be 50/50 front to back. If you can find the front/rear max weight ratings, that should be taken into consideration.
 

petes67bird

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Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
56
Location
Midwest
6400GVWR

Original rim size is 15 x 6.5

5x5.5 pattern

p235/75/15 Xl 36 front 41 rear, is what my door placard says on my 89 b250. Starcraft conversion

I've been running 30x9.5x15s, but have never weighed my converted '89, but I carry a good amount of additional weight, and if I run 50PSI they wear in the middle faster than the edges.

I know of a female couple with an extended converted 1988 b250 running LT235 75 15's, and they know they carry way too much weight inside.

I've always been concerned about the light 3/4 ton with 15 inch rims and tires and 5 lugs, but my only tire related issues, not related to age, were buying some noname tires which did not Like Baja's washboard.

When those tires failed at speed they took out the rims.
The aftermarket rims I bought are not as burly as the originals and the hub size is too big for proper idiot proof wheel centering, but they have 100K miles on them.

I keep considering acquiring 16 inch rims and higher rated tires, but keep coming back to the fact that I do not require full PSI in my LT load range C

1984x4=7936
GVWR is 6400
Unconverted and empty, vehicle weight is just under 4000lbs.
Thank you for the in depth look. At this point my tire choices will be listed below with links. If my van is 4000lbs empty, my conversion weight fully packed for a trip with all occupants should not exceed 6000lbs. I am guessing at the most I would be 1500lbs with everything. My bed frame is aluminum to save weight and weights 15lbs, mattress 106lbs, two yeti coolers at most 200lbs combined, dog 135lbs, my wife and I 370 combined, camp equipment/supplies/clothes maybe 300lbs tops, solar panel 30lbs tops, lithium battery 20lbs. All of this is still less than 1500lbs, I am not putting plumbing in, sinks etc. I have outdoor toilet, shower and kitchen setups. So at most, I would be 5500lbs, and I will be sure to weigh the van fully loaded this spring. Regardless here are my tire options

1. Cooper Discoverer AT3 XL Load 109T 235/75/15 Currently on the van with less than 1k miles

2. BF Goodrich KO2 LT 104/101S 235/75/15 Load C

3. Yokohama Geolander GO15 LT 104/101S 235/75/15 Load C

4. Nokian Rotiiva AT LT 116/113S 235/75/15 Load E
 
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I think I would work on other things before changing the tires as I think they would offer a bigger improvement. New rear springs and bushings, a rear sway bar and/or air bags would be my next move.
 

petes67bird

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Messages
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Location
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I think I would work on other things before changing the tires as I think they would offer a bigger improvement. New rear springs and bushings, a rear sway bar and/or air bags would be my next move.
Those are being done. I need to make sure my tires are safe as well. This is an area that every tire shop has no idea on, I have talked to about 15 people and they are just like the computer says......... I already have an appointment to install HD Leaf springs and Coil springs. I already upgraded the shocks. The hellwig 7513 rear sway bar is the only sway bar made, and will not fit with my 35 gallon gas tank. Air Bags I am not interested in at all.
 

petes67bird

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Messages
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Location
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I think I have narrowed my list to my current XL tires and either the BF KO2 Load C or Toyo Open Country AT3 Load C. Load C are 6 Ply and may give me more stability. The load E I would be running at a lower pressure causing greater heat retention and lower load capability.
 
Last edited:

petes67bird

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
56
Location
Midwest

petes67bird

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
56
Location
Midwest
6400GVWR

Original rim size is 15 x 6.5

5x5.5 pattern

p235/75/15 Xl 36 front 41 rear, is what my door placard says on my 89 b250. Starcraft conversion

I've been running 30x9.5x15s, but have never weighed my converted '89, but I carry a good amount of additional weight, and if I run 50PSI they wear in the middle faster than the edges.

I know of a female couple with an extended converted 1988 b250 running LT235 75 15's, and they know they carry way too much weight inside.

I've always been concerned about the light 3/4 ton with 15 inch rims and tires and 5 lugs, but my only tire related issues, not related to age, were buying some noname tires which did not Like Baja's washboard.

When those tires failed at speed they took out the rims.
The aftermarket rims I bought are not as burly as the originals and the hub size is too big for proper idiot proof wheel centering, but they have 100K miles on them.

I keep considering acquiring 16 inch rims and higher rated tires, but keep coming back to the fact that I do not require full PSI in my LT load range C

1984x4=7936
GVWR is 6400
Unconverted and empty, vehicle weight is just under 4000lbs.
1. Is your van a B250 or B350? I have a B250 so I was leaning towards 7270.
2. How did you know your springs were worn out? is there a set ride height? Or did you just measure each side and see it was uneven?
3. Do you travel on the highway at high speeds? How are the little bumps grooves? I have the gas a just like you as well, curious if i should buy the 7272 instead of the 7270
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
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Location
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Mine's a b250.
Old 7270 springs heavily rusted... easily bottomed out over speed bumps.

Ride height was nearly exactly the same with 7272 installed. Driver's side gained 1/4" only.
They are just stiffer.

Order some.new coil spring isolators too. By memory ...moog k1600037.
 

petes67bird

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Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
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Location
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Mine's a b250.
Old 7270 springs heavily rusted... easily bottomed out over speed bumps.

Ride height was nearly exactly the same with 7272 installed. Driver's side gained 1/4" only.
They are just stiffer.

Order some.new coil spring isolators too. By memory ...moog k1600037.
Thank you! Are the moog made in the US? Did you ever do the leaf springs? Wondering which daytons I should buy on rock auto. There is a 2500lbs, 2300lbs, 1800lbs or 1750lbs. I was thinking maybe the 2300lbs leaf springs so they are not too stiff.
 
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Can't recall if the Moog 7272 springs specified a COI.

I installed firestone riderite airbags in 2007. Kept original leafsprings.
Love the airbag adjustability. I put 5 to 10 more psi on drivers side as I carry more weight there.

I can't make any suggestions on new leafsprings ratings, as i have no experience.
 

petes67bird

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Joined
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Location
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Can't recall if the Moog 7272 springs specified a COI.

I installed firestone riderite airbags in 2007. Kept original leafsprings.
Love the airbag adjustability. I put 5 to 10 more psi on drivers side as I carry more weight there.

I can't make any suggestions on new leafsprings ratings, as i have no experience.
I am still debating the 7272 vs 7270. I drive about 1-2k miles on trips. I don't want anything jarring as the roads in some states are very bumpy with small bumps @75mph, but I want stability. Right now I have both in the cart. I do not see any sag in my van, but guessing after 33 years and 140k miles, I should see an improvement I hope.
 
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california
I drive cross country twice a year.
No way would I go back to the softer coil spring up front.

I am more annoyed with wind and tire noise. I certainly don't need an all terrain tire anymore, but they have tons of tread left, and 2 years and 13 weeks before they turn 5 years old.
I basically only go faster than 65mph when I am holding up traffic flow.
Mpg's tank above 68mph or so.
Getting Under 15mpg annoys me, much more so than driving 65.
I usually average over 16 highway.
 

petes67bird

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Joined
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Location
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I drive cross country twice a year.
No way would I go back to the softer coil spring up front.

I am more annoyed with wind and tire noise. I certainly don't need an all terrain tire anymore, but they have tons of tread left, and 2 years and 13 weeks before they turn 5 years old.
I basically only go faster than 65mph when I am holding up traffic flow.
Mpg's tank above 68mph or so.
Getting Under 15mpg annoys me, much more so than driving 65.
I usually average over 16 highway.
Thanks, I will get 7272s then. I'm not sure how your steering box is, but I sent mine into blue top steering and it fixed the slop in my steering. I'm not too concerned about gas mileage and I can't hear my tires over the wind noise..... 😂.

I appreciate all your help! Hope this all helps with crosswind and with a weird other thing. If I a stopped in a left turn lane and cars drive passed at 50mph, my van rocks side to side a lot.
 
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Never heard of blue top steering gears till you mentioned them. Apparently started by a former redhead steering gear employee,.if the internet can be believed.

Just installed my Redhead steering gear 2 months ago. So much better than The cheezy super sloppy Apsco reman i had i before. Made the recent 40+ hour highway drive much more pleasant, as did some hella dot headlights with phillips extreme +120 h4 bulbs, as i did most of it in the dark.
 

petes67bird

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Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
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Location
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Never heard of blue top steering gears till you mentioned them. Apparently started by a former redhead steering gear employee,.if the internet can be believed.

Just installed my Redhead steering gear 2 months ago. So much better than The cheezy super sloppy Apsco reman i had i before. Made the recent 40+ hour highway drive much more pleasant, as did some hella dot headlights with phillips extreme +120 h4 bulbs, as i did most of it in the dark.
Yes, blue top was more responsive than redhead was when I called, so far it is great. I did similar. I bought the Hella e code H4, upgraded my headlight wiring harness using this guy, he made it longer to accommodate the van which now powers the lights straight from thd battery and not switch. Then I purchased the high wattage bulbs I have linked below. Huge difference over the Phillips +120 bulbs I had. We are basically on the same wavelength haha. I basically want any vehicle I own to be completely restored and in perfect working order.

Headlight harness: http://headlightservices.com/Wiring.html

High wattage bulbs: https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/osram-super-bright-premium-h4
 
Last edited:
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The lumen nazis on candlepower forums claimed the 6054 Hella vision plus DOT version is better focused than the E- code version.

I tested a lot of bulbs wattsge consumption at diffetent voltages. Most only came close to their rated wattage at close to 14.5v.

I bought some 100/55 watt flosser h4s. Amazingly potent high beam...but it moved hotspot down and to left leaving darkspot to the right. Also, lowbeam focus was not as good as Phillips. I stripped blue coating from phillips extremes and use those. I made my own harness years ago, and i control vehicle voltage manually. The phillips xv+130's inside the hellas getting 14.2v is magnitudes better than sylvania sealed beams on the stock undersized 30 year old circuit.
 

petes67bird

Thread starter
Joined
Apr 19, 2016
Messages
56
Location
Midwest
The lumen nazis on candlepower forums claimed the 6054 Hella vision plus DOT version is better focused than the E- code version.

I tested a lot of bulbs wattsge consumption at diffetent voltages. Most only came close to their rated wattage at close to 14.5v.

I bought some 100/55 watt flosser h4s. Amazingly potent high beam...but it moved hotspot down and to left leaving darkspot to the right. Also, lowbeam focus was not as good as Phillips. I stripped blue coating from phillips extremes and use those. I made my own harness years ago, and i control vehicle voltage manually. The phillips xv+130's inside the hellas getting 14.2v is magnitudes better than sylvania sealed beams on the stock undersized 30 year old circuit.
Yes over on that forum they do not like the e codes because they are a European standard lol. I really like the sharp cutoff they provide, I heard it all from them. The Osram 100w/90w bulbs are bright and exactly what I needed in the middle of night while out in isolation. We take this van camping off grid, which is why I make sure everything is in the best working order.

Any other great upgrades? I wrapped the steering wheel for comfort, was like 10 bucks. If you ever replace your alternator, be sure to just get yours rebuilt locally. I went through 4 of them and all were noisy with bad bearings. My local shop rebuilt my original for 60 dollars. Here are some photos.
 

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