I recently bought a 67 Galaxie Convertible. The engine was replaced at some time with a 302 from 1969. I have no manual for the car and have no idea the recommended oil weight and correct filter. I have search the web without success. Anyone know where I could find this info? Also, I use synthetic oil in my modern cars. Would you recommend synthetic in this vehicle?
1967 Ford Galaxie Convertible
- Thread starter derweed
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5w30, 5w40 your pick. Should be a motor craft fl1a filter.
I'd recommend rotella t6 or Mobil 1 0w40 I you want something synthetic.
T5 would certainly work fine too if you're on a budget.
I'd recommend rotella t6 or Mobil 1 0w40 I you want something synthetic.
T5 would certainly work fine too if you're on a budget.
Forget synthetic. Try a common 5w30 like Pennzoil Conventional or some other inexpensive conventional until you get familiar with the engine and how it runs.
Look up the original oil pressure requirements and compare them against what you have now. If 5w30 doesn't achieve the engines original oil pressure specs then move up to a 40 grade if needed.
A 302 runs pretty hot,so even if some fuel gets into the oil it will evaporate pretty quickly.
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Anyways try a 30 grade and see how the oil pressure behaves and compare that against the original spec.
It could be that a common 5w30 is more than adequate for the engine,and there really is no point going to a thicker grade if pressure is adequate using a thinner one.
Establish the engines hot and cold pressures then make a decision.
For syn 30 grades I really like devlac elite 222 0w-30. Its an hdeo so its more than stout enough for that old 5.0 and is priced much better than German castrol or even the M1 line of lubricants.
Conventional may be the way to go,with short intervals depending on whether or not there is substantial fuel dilution or not.
If not I see no reason to not go with a syn and extended intervals however I'd still start off with an inexpensive conventional until you are familiar with the engine.
Jmo
Look up the original oil pressure requirements and compare them against what you have now. If 5w30 doesn't achieve the engines original oil pressure specs then move up to a 40 grade if needed.
A 302 runs pretty hot,so even if some fuel gets into the oil it will evaporate pretty quickly.
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Anyways try a 30 grade and see how the oil pressure behaves and compare that against the original spec.
It could be that a common 5w30 is more than adequate for the engine,and there really is no point going to a thicker grade if pressure is adequate using a thinner one.
Establish the engines hot and cold pressures then make a decision.
For syn 30 grades I really like devlac elite 222 0w-30. Its an hdeo so its more than stout enough for that old 5.0 and is priced much better than German castrol or even the M1 line of lubricants.
Conventional may be the way to go,with short intervals depending on whether or not there is substantial fuel dilution or not.
If not I see no reason to not go with a syn and extended intervals however I'd still start off with an inexpensive conventional until you are familiar with the engine.
Jmo
T5 10w30
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Even though I haven't mentioned it in this thread, it's a bit true, and a bit internet amplification, probably entirely my fault.
The old F-150 had the electronic feedback carb that was only used for one year, and it would dilute the fuel like crazy, to the point that near the end of the OCI, any ILSAC rated lube would be thin enough that the oil pressure light would come on at hot idle. It also seriously reeked of gasoline. Thanks to that, I'm always paranoid about fuel dilution.
I would suggest that a carbed engine would be more prone to fuel dilution under certain circumstances, particularly during choke conditions (which may be of longer duration than any rich or cold modes in modern fuel injection), and also if the carb is out of adjustment.
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Even though I haven't mentioned it in this thread, it's a bit true, and a bit internet amplification, probably entirely my fault.
I would suggest that a carbed engine would be more prone to fuel dilution under certain circumstances, particularly during choke conditions (which may be of longer duration than any rich or cold modes in modern fuel injection), and also if the carb is out of adjustment.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Forget synthetic. Try a common 5w30 like Pennzoil Conventional or some other inexpensive conventional until you get familiar with the engine and how it runs.
Look up the original oil pressure requirements and compare them against what you have now. If 5w30 doesn't achieve the engines original oil pressure specs then move up to a 40 grade if needed.
A 302 runs pretty hot,so even if some fuel gets into the oil it will evaporate pretty quickly.
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Anyways try a 30 grade and see how the oil pressure behaves and compare that against the original spec.
It could be that a common 5w30 is more than adequate for the engine,and there really is no point going to a thicker grade if pressure is adequate using a thinner one.
Establish the engines hot and cold pressures then make a decision.
For syn 30 grades I really like devlac elite 222 0w-30. Its an hdeo so its more than stout enough for that old 5.0 and is priced much better than German castrol or even the M1 line of lubricants.
Conventional may be the way to go,with short intervals depending on whether or not there is substantial fuel dilution or not.
If not I see no reason to not go with a syn and extended intervals however I'd still start off with an inexpensive conventional until you are familiar with the engine.
Jmo
No it's mostly I-net folklore(at least here on BITOG), once someone hears something it just snowballs... Yes a carb with issues can cause all sorts of issues but those are the exception vs rule...
I agree with using dino, if it hasn't been rebuilt lately I'd use a HEDO or High Mileage oil no matter how well it runs... The idea for High Mileage oils is keep it performing, not fix problems after they develop...
Forget synthetic. Try a common 5w30 like Pennzoil Conventional or some other inexpensive conventional until you get familiar with the engine and how it runs.
Look up the original oil pressure requirements and compare them against what you have now. If 5w30 doesn't achieve the engines original oil pressure specs then move up to a 40 grade if needed.
A 302 runs pretty hot,so even if some fuel gets into the oil it will evaporate pretty quickly.
I gotta ask. Did every carb engine ever built suffer from fuel diluted oil because every single time I see an engine oil question with a carburetor someone always mentions fuel dilution because of it.
Anyways try a 30 grade and see how the oil pressure behaves and compare that against the original spec.
It could be that a common 5w30 is more than adequate for the engine,and there really is no point going to a thicker grade if pressure is adequate using a thinner one.
Establish the engines hot and cold pressures then make a decision.
For syn 30 grades I really like devlac elite 222 0w-30. Its an hdeo so its more than stout enough for that old 5.0 and is priced much better than German castrol or even the M1 line of lubricants.
Conventional may be the way to go,with short intervals depending on whether or not there is substantial fuel dilution or not.
If not I see no reason to not go with a syn and extended intervals however I'd still start off with an inexpensive conventional until you are familiar with the engine.
Jmo
No it's mostly I-net folklore(at least here on BITOG), once someone hears something it just snowballs... Yes a carb with issues can cause all sorts of issues but those are the exception vs rule...
I agree with using dino, if it hasn't been rebuilt lately I'd use a HEDO or High Mileage oil no matter how well it runs... The idea for High Mileage oils is keep it performing, not fix problems after they develop...
Been using Rotella 10W30 in a '65 289 with good results. I typically include a quart of high mileage 5W30 or 10W30 as well because of the old seals.
I had a 1971 convertible like yours and I had great results using 10W30 and 10W40 (per the manual) Quaker State with a Motorcraft or Purolator filter. I remember reading the manual and even it stated that one could change the oil up to 6 months or 6K miles under normal operating conditions. I feel that today's oils can handle the fuel dilution better than oils of forty years ago so I wouldn't worry too much about it, especially with a 302 in that big car it will be running hot after moving that big car around so any fuel that may have leaked into the oil will evaporate out as Clevy said. I think the 10W30 T5 or Pennzoil conventional will be an excellent choice as others have stated. Run either and don't have any worries. Just enjoy your car with the top down as I did mine.
I don't see much reason to use a 10w30 with the ability of todays 5w30s. You will likely be changing it fairly often anyways before it has any chance to shear.
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