Information overload, recent convert to syn. concept, advice for 100K+ cars?

[JAK]

Guys,

I am a recent convert to syn. concept and want advice on changing over. I've spent HOURS reading posts, so please don't accuse me of not using the search function, but now I'm paralyzed with info overload. Current situation is:

2000 Dodge Stratus, 2.5L, 115K miles, original owner, regular OCI. Last 10K has had 5W30 Amsoil and Amsoil oversized filter, and I did nothing special when I converted. Before this, has been all dyno. Oil consumption has been ~0.5 qt. in last 10K.

1995 Mitsu Mirage, 1.8L, 118K miles, all dyno to date, minimal consumption, sporatic OCI bewteen 3 and 6K, maybe an 8K in there. There is some valve tap on cold days and cold start, stops in
Going forward:

I want to keep these cars as long as possible. Will use Amsoil or Valvoline Max. Syn. Willing to use oversized filters, flushes, cleaners and/or additives. I have Wisconsin weather and not willing to change weight according to season.

OCI? Oil weight? Filter recommendation? Change filter more frequently than OCI? VSOT? Oil flush before converting to syn or during syn usage, i.e. Auto-RX, LC20, Pyroil, Amsoil, others? Cost is a factor so I'm not willing throw everything at them with an OCI of 3K.

JAK

 

[GMorg]

If you want to switch, just switch.

by the way:

 

[Pablo]

So you are changing Amsoil at 3K OCI? Go 10K.

 

[m2200b]

The Mirage needs a dino- AutoRX regime then go syn. If your last line actually means what it seems to say - cost is important and you're changing syn at 3k -reread some posts here.

 

[hominid7]

Step 1. Change oil to new synthetic oil of correct viscosity for your car.

Step 2. Change oil filter to new filter, either OEM or WIX.

Step 3. DRIVE!

All done, happy motoring

Oh yaa, Step 4. Repeat after 5k-7k miles.

My personal feeling is that additives, flushes, and even syntehtics may be a waste of money. Using a quality dino at regular intervals is your best bet. Sticking with dino will likely see the engine far outlast the second transmission, not to mention the rest of the car.

If you want to go synthetic, there is no need for fancy flushes, etc... Just switch. If the oil gets dirty quick from cleaning, just do a shorter than normal OCI.

 

[i]

The mitsu I'd do the rx treatment and then GC w/5-7k OCI.

 

[Winston]

Your 10K routine for the Stratus with Amsoil sounds great.

I would consider an ARX cycle for the Mitsu. Go ahead and use Amsoil for it too with a 10k OCI. If you want to go cheaper with the Mitsu, try Walmart Syntec oil. It is a good cheap synthetic oil. However, I would not go past a 7.5k OCI with that oil

 

[JAK]

Looks like I should keep it simple. Why does it seem like so many people make this so complicated?

No, I do not change the Amsoil at 3K. One of the reasons I first tried it was an OCI of 10K. Can I do this with Val. Maxlife?

Forgot to mention one thing, the mitsu has had a sporactic, and relatively rare, oil light go on when idling after warm up. I have not been able to reproduce it and only occurs when my wife drives it (hmmmmm). It's improved since I changed the plugs and seems to idle at a more consistent RPM. Pressure may have been dropping due to low RPM.

 

[Pablo]

OK sorry I misunderstood - 10K on Amsoil is fine, easy. 10K on Maxlife is not impossible, but could be harsh. You would need to run a UOA at 5K, 7.5K, 10K.....

Is the wiring to the oil pressure sensor and sensor itself good?