1966 327 Flat Tappet Valvoline Restore and Protect?

[OVERKILL]

So, we're taking in account only the power per cylinder and valve spring rate, not the quality of the metals as well?
Yes, there are some modern flat-tapped engines like Toyota 2AZ-FE (2002—2011) and nobody recommends high ZDDP oil for them. They have been run on 0W-20 and 5W-30 regular API SN oils. But are those engines made with the same type of metals like the engines back in the 60s? I think metallurgy and metals used in engine building evolved long way since 1960s.

There are plenty of 90's SBF's and SBC's with more aggressive cams than what came in this mill that are still on the road using modern oils. And given the outsourcing to China, the head treatment of the ductile iron cams was probably better in the 1960's than it is today, same with the quality of the lifters. GM, FCA and Ford are all struggling with lifters eating themselves, Honda has had camshafts delaminating...etc. It was totally normal for us to slap big cams in a SBF with the stock 1980's lifters and make them scream, and we had zero durability issues with those old Federal Mogul lifters.

 

[RDY4WAR]

As much as I abhor the idea of using oil supplements...

Merciful Father, I come to you with a humble and repentant heart. I acknowledge that I am about to fall short of your expectations of me. I confess my sin to you and ask for your forgiveness. Please cleanse me of this most unrighteous act. In Jesus name I pray. Amen

...Add 1 oz of Rislone ZDDP supplement per 1 quart of Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30.

Rislone ZDDP = 16,700 ppm Zn
Valvoline Restore and Protect = ~750 ppm Zn
1 quart = 32 oz

((32 x 750) + 16,700) / 33 = 1,233 ppm Zn

...or use HPL HDMO 5W-40 which has similar ZDDP content with more robust base oils, better VII, a chunk of ester and alkylated napthalene, higher TBN, better oxidation resistance, zero foam, load of moly, less likely to shear out of grade, is also known to clean well, and you don't have to play shadetree backyard chemist with an oil supplement.

 

[thetricky]

So, we're taking in account only the power per cylinder and valve spring rate, not the quality of the metals as well?
Yes, there are some modern flat-tapped engines like Toyota 2AZ-FE (2002—2011) and nobody recommends high ZDDP oil for them. They have been run on 0W-20 and 5W-30 regular API SN oils. But are those engines made with the same type of metals like the engines back in the 60s? I think metallurgy and metals used in engine building evolved long way since 1960s.

If the metal quality and heat treat suck then it doesn't matter, no oil will save you as we have seen in plenty of modern vehicles. Back to what ripcord said, it isn't just the ZDDP as the AF additive, boron and molybdenum are also big players in the game now as well.

 

[TacoFergie]

A little progress and some things I’ll need to address. Moved the other trucks out of the way to gain better access to this truck. Dipstick was dry last weekend when I checked. Had some Rotella T4 in the shop, took a whole jug to get to the full line. This is just temporary till I get it more sorted out. Looks like it likely leaked out of the drain plug since it put a wrench on it and it spun, so stripped threads. I’ll address that soon enough. Anyways, got it running with a hose off the fuel pump to a gas can. This thing is mechanically whisper quiet. All I hear is the fan, induction noise (with the air cleaner removed) and the exhaust. Sounds like it’s super healthy.

This weekend I plan to replace the transmissionmission pan gasket (powerglide), get as much of the old fuel out of the tank, clean the engine/transmission so I can track down any other leaks and put fresh gas in with a fresh fuel filter. The power steering has a good amount of leaks too that I’ll have to address. Hopefully I’ll be able to take it for a spin down the road assuming brakes are all good and the transmissionmission is good to go.

Plan of attack is get most of the leaks fixed, do all the fluid changes and I will be using Valvoline Restore and Protect.

 

[ripcord]

If it's been sitting long, I would definitely plan on refreshing the brakes. Chances are the wheel cylinders are leaking and/or rusted.

 

[Vexorg]

A little progress and some things I’ll need to address. Moved the other trucks out of the way to gain better access to this truck. Dipstick was dry last weekend when I checked. Had some Rotella T4 in the shop, took a whole jug to get to the full line. This is just temporary till I get it more sorted out. Looks like it likely leaked out of the drain plug since it put a wrench on it and it spun, so stripped threads. I’ll address that soon enough. Anyways, got it running with a hose off the fuel pump to a gas can. This thing is mechanically whisper quiet. All I hear is the fan, induction noise (with the air cleaner removed) and the exhaust. Sounds like it’s super healthy.

This weekend I plan to replace the transmissionmission pan gasket (powerglide), get as much of the old fuel out of the tank, clean the engine/transmission so I can track down any other leaks and put fresh gas in with a fresh fuel filter. The power steering has a good amount of leaks too that I’ll have to address. Hopefully I’ll be able to take it for a spin down the road assuming brakes are all good and the transmissionmission is good to go.

Plan of attack is get most of the leaks fixed, do all the fluid changes and I will be using Valvoline Restore and Protect.
View attachment 342363View attachment 342364View attachment 342365

That truck would look better with me driving it.

 

[TacoFergie]

If it's been sitting long, I would definitely plan on refreshing the brakes. Chances are the wheel cylinders are leaking and/or rusted.

That will probably end up happening sooner than later. Brake pedal does feel solid and I haven't seen any indications of leaky wheel cylinders, but after some heat and miles I'm sure one of them will start leaking. I will likely just drive it around the property if everything checks out, so maybe 10-15mph. It also needs tires really bad, couldn't find a date code...but they are dry rotted really bad. So those are going to get replaced soon, just have to figure out what size to go with.

 

[TacoFergie]

That truck would look better with me driving it.

Not chance! lol Previous owner painted it gold inside. Doesn’t look too bad, but we’re going to bring it back to the factory color. Seat need redone pretty bad too.

 

[Vexorg]

Not chance! lol Previous owner painted it gold inside. Doesn’t look too bad, but we’re going to bring it back to the factory color. Seat need redone pretty bad too.View attachment 342383

The gold is not terrible. It would not be my first choice either.

 

[JeffKeryk]

A little progress and some things I’ll need to address. Moved the other trucks out of the way to gain better access to this truck. Dipstick was dry last weekend when I checked. Had some Rotella T4 in the shop, took a whole jug to get to the full line. This is just temporary till I get it more sorted out. Looks like it likely leaked out of the drain plug since it put a wrench on it and it spun, so stripped threads. I’ll address that soon enough. Anyways, got it running with a hose off the fuel pump to a gas can. This thing is mechanically whisper quiet. All I hear is the fan, induction noise (with the air cleaner removed) and the exhaust. Sounds like it’s super healthy.

This weekend I plan to replace the transmissionmission pan gasket (powerglide), get as much of the old fuel out of the tank, clean the engine/transmission so I can track down any other leaks and put fresh gas in with a fresh fuel filter. The power steering has a good amount of leaks too that I’ll have to address. Hopefully I’ll be able to take it for a spin down the road assuming brakes are all good and the transmissionmission is good to go.

Plan of attack is get most of the leaks fixed, do all the fluid changes and I will be using Valvoline Restore and Protect.
View attachment 342363View attachment 342364View attachment 342365

Looks like a fun project. If I had one more labor-of-love in me, it would be a 55-57 Chev half ton. Or any early Ford. Or Dodge.

 

[sru1436]

Tacofergie: Is that factory AC? If so that factory dash configuration is awesome. I also like the factory oil fill in the intake manifold. I kinda wish my truck had that.

 

[TacoFergie]

Looks like a fun project. If I had one more labor-of-love in me, it would be a 55-57 Chev half ton. Or any early Ford. Or Dodge.

You mean like this one? It’s a 57 3100 with a 261 3 on the tree. It’s a great driver, eventually we’ll get to restoring it. My FiL has 4 old trucks and 4 kids, each kid gets a truck passed down to them. I’m the mechanic of the family so I do all the wrenching. He was a previous body guy and his cousin just retired from about 30 years of auto body, so that their side of it. I don’t have the patience for body work. lol But I wouldn’t mind learning some of it.

Also in the picture is my 91 MR2. I’m a pretty lucky guy. Ain’t got no high end cars, but I can work on all of them.

 

[TacoFergie]

Tacofergie: Is that factory AC? If so that factory dash configuration is awesome. I also like the factory oil fill in the intake manifold. I kinda wish my truck had that.

Yup, factory AC, power steering and a powerglide. From what I understand, it has a pretty rare set of options. First year for the 327 in the trucks also. I'm not too concerned with keeping it all original or numbers matching though since it'll stay in the family. I want the AC to work, whether that means keeping this system or retrofitting a system that keeps it original looking inside, as long as it works. At some point I'll probably put an OD transmission in it, but for now it's simply getting it on the road to keep motivation and progress going.