A friend of mine just had his engine rebuilt in his '54 Chevy BelAir(?) 4 door. I don't know much about american cars. In his original owners handbook, I spotted an oil recommendation for straight 20 grade oil for the current temperature climate we are in. I know modern cars use light oil for their very tight clearances but did Chevy have a good reason for a light oil or was it just for fuel economy or to help prevent the owner of the car driving far north to discover when he next starts the car that he forgot to switch to a lighter viscosity? The place who rebuilt the engine used a new cam, and filled it with straight 30 non detergent. Hopefully they used a splash of zinc or similar break-in lubricant. I suggested that my friend should consider Valvoline VR1 10w30, but I figured I should ask on here about the straight oil recommendation on the owners manual. What are your thoughts?
1954 Chevy oil viscosity
- Thread starter 79sunrunner
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Hi,
79sunrunner - Yes, these engines did run on a SAE20 lubricant. A modern dual rated HD SAE20 would work well
79sunrunner - Yes, these engines did run on a SAE20 lubricant. A modern dual rated HD SAE20 would work well
I agree with the 10W30 suggestion. 1954 would probably originally been API SB or SC oil and not non-detergent SB. Chevy recommended 20W because multi-grade hadn't been adopted yet. I'm not sure if the zddp levels in the early 50's vs the mid-late 50's were any higher or as high as SM/SN, but they changed the cam and it's breaking in anyway. So 10W30 VR1 or Rotella T5 would seem to be the best bet.
Actually in the handbook, it said the car was filled with 10 weight. Probably so the car would start on the dealer's lots weather they were sent to Texas, or Maine. Where would I get Straight 20? I doubt he would use it, but I didn't know the stuff was still produced.
I wouldn't bother with straight weights and light 20W. You can go much thicker with multigrades without issue. Mobil recommends 15W50 for any classic cars just to cover for the higher zddp. But there's no reason to go heavier than 10W30, and to play it safe one with higher zddp.
Originally Posted By: 79sunrunner
Actually in the handbook, it said the car was filled with 10 weight. Probably so the car would start on the dealer's lots weather they were sent to Texas, or Maine. Where would I get Straight 20? I doubt he would use it, but I didn't know the stuff was still produced.
Why would you want a straight 20wt anyway. Just because it is an old car doesn't mean you can't take advantage of modern lubricants.
QS Defy comes in a 5W-20 grade and of course a 5w30.
Run the lightest oil (or a blend of the two) that still allows you the maintain adequate oil pressure when the oil is up to temperature.
Actually in the handbook, it said the car was filled with 10 weight. Probably so the car would start on the dealer's lots weather they were sent to Texas, or Maine. Where would I get Straight 20? I doubt he would use it, but I didn't know the stuff was still produced.
Why would you want a straight 20wt anyway. Just because it is an old car doesn't mean you can't take advantage of modern lubricants.
QS Defy comes in a 5W-20 grade and of course a 5w30.
Run the lightest oil (or a blend of the two) that still allows you the maintain adequate oil pressure when the oil is up to temperature.
Originally Posted By: 95busa
10w30 hdeo. Conversation over.
^^^ This.
Best of all worlds, with enough zinc, plus detergents to help prevent sludge.
The multigrades even into the 60s and 70s sheared badly. Today, not so. Back then you had to change oil weight by season or where you lived. The multigrades cover that.
I have never understood the thinking behind "use the oil they used back then even though it's incredibly inferior to what is available today".
10w30 hdeo. Conversation over.
^^^ This.
Best of all worlds, with enough zinc, plus detergents to help prevent sludge.
The multigrades even into the 60s and 70s sheared badly. Today, not so. Back then you had to change oil weight by season or where you lived. The multigrades cover that.
I have never understood the thinking behind "use the oil they used back then even though it's incredibly inferior to what is available today".
My choice would be an HDEO 10w30 or even a 15w40 for the warmer months. I've been using Chevron Delo 400 15w40 in the older engines more than 30 years with excellent results as Southern California rarely has temperatures below 40 degrees. That grade was recommended by the Chevron and Shell tech reps for the older engines as HDEO has adequate zinc for flat tappet cams.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: 95busa
10w30 hdeo. Conversation over.
+1
10w30 hdeo. Conversation over.
+1
10W or 20W was used for it's cold cranking characteristics plus the thermostat was never more than 180* and often 160* were used in the summer... In case you guys don't see the correlation, this means is oil temps far less than in a modern engine...
Modern oil has more than enough ZDDP(I guarantee far more than in 1954)to protect the cam in these engines that use light springs, I'd use about any 5w30 and call it good...
Modern oil has more than enough ZDDP(I guarantee far more than in 1954)to protect the cam in these engines that use light springs, I'd use about any 5w30 and call it good...
I think that 46Harry's advice is spot on.
There used to be 20W-20. It met the cold viscosity standards of 20W and the hot standards of 20 weight. Any modern 10w30 will be far superior, especially a diesel 10w30 for this old engine.
Yes, they used to use non-detergent oil as break in oil, but that was when detergent oil was still something new and revolutionary. I'd get that oil out of that engine soonest.
Yes, they used to use non-detergent oil as break in oil, but that was when detergent oil was still something new and revolutionary. I'd get that oil out of that engine soonest.
Originally Posted By: TFB1
10W or 20W was used for it's cold cranking characteristics plus the thermostat was never more than 180* and often 160* were used in the summer... In case you guys don't see the correlation, this means is oil temps far less than in a modern engine...
Modern oil has more than enough ZDDP(I guarantee far more than in 1954)to protect the cam in these engines that use light springs, I'd use about any 5w30 and call it good...
Exactly.
Changing the thermostat, cool for the summer and hot for the winter was also part of the routine.
I don't know how the automatic response became that a HDEO 10w30 was somehow the preferred engine lube. Perhaps because most of these old engines were badly worn and a heavy 30wt oil helped maintain oil pressure.
Rebuilt engines or those still in good condition certainly don't need it.
10W or 20W was used for it's cold cranking characteristics plus the thermostat was never more than 180* and often 160* were used in the summer... In case you guys don't see the correlation, this means is oil temps far less than in a modern engine...
Modern oil has more than enough ZDDP(I guarantee far more than in 1954)to protect the cam in these engines that use light springs, I'd use about any 5w30 and call it good...
Exactly.
Changing the thermostat, cool for the summer and hot for the winter was also part of the routine.
I don't know how the automatic response became that a HDEO 10w30 was somehow the preferred engine lube. Perhaps because most of these old engines were badly worn and a heavy 30wt oil helped maintain oil pressure.
Rebuilt engines or those still in good condition certainly don't need it.
SAE 20 was very common recommendation in the 50s up to the mid 60s. If the Chevy were mine I'd base my oil choice on oil pressure readings. Many older engines have been rebuilt with unknown clearances, often somewhat sloppy. If the engine would tolerate 5W20 with adequate oil pressure and the temperatures were reasonable for it, that is what I'd use. More likely due to bearing clearances the engine would need XW30...40..or even 50 due to low oil pressure when hot. At any rate I'd use the lightest oil based on adequate oil pressure.
The cam in the Chevy 6 is very mild. If it is decent quality, it should be relatively tolerant of the modern oil formulations (compared to hotter cams with steeper ramps, more spring pressure and lift). The non detergent oil is not a good idea.
The cam in the Chevy 6 is very mild. If it is decent quality, it should be relatively tolerant of the modern oil formulations (compared to hotter cams with steeper ramps, more spring pressure and lift). The non detergent oil is not a good idea.
Last edited:
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
The place who rebuilt the engine used a new cam, and filled it with straight 30 non detergent.
Have your friend drain that 30 weight ND as soon as possible.
Non-detergent oils have no anti-wear additives.
If he needs to break-it-in, have him run something such as Amsoil
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/
And use as suggested, a 10W30 HDEO such as http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
.
The place who rebuilt the engine used a new cam, and filled it with straight 30 non detergent.
Have your friend drain that 30 weight ND as soon as possible.
Non-detergent oils have no anti-wear additives.
If he needs to break-it-in, have him run something such as Amsoil
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-(sae-30)/
And use as suggested, a 10W30 HDEO such as http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...duty-motor-oil/
.
Last edited:
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