Good friend has a totally rebuilt 1955 Chevy with an inline six. Runs great. However, he has heard from others that he needs an oil with higher zinc to keep the cam shaft lobes intact. Any recommendations? I looked at Rotella but they are listed as SM where there is am auto use listing.
Oil for '55 Chevy 6 Cylinder
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Rotella T5 10w30 would do the trick unless others have a better recommendation.
Should be the 261 aka the 4.3 right? If he wants top of the line i would use Amsoil Z-Rod.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fzrt.aspx
If he is on a tighter budget...It would probably run pretty sweet Mobil 1 0w40 Euro formula found at walmart for like $22 a jug.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fzrt.aspx
If he is on a tighter budget...It would probably run pretty sweet Mobil 1 0w40 Euro formula found at walmart for like $22 a jug.
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JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx
Rotella T5 10w30 would do the trick unless others have a better recommendation.
Agreed. And I'd buy redline break in additive for a shot of zinc, using UOA to ensure it is a good level and not overdone.
Rotella T5 10w30 would do the trick unless others have a better recommendation.
Agreed. And I'd buy redline break in additive for a shot of zinc, using UOA to ensure it is a good level and not overdone.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Should be the 261 aka the 4.3 right? If he wants top of the line i would use Amsoil Z-Rod.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fzrt.aspx
If he is on a tighter budget...It would probably run pretty sweet Mobil 1 0w40 Euro formula found at walmart for like $22 a jug.
Or the 235.
Should be the 261 aka the 4.3 right? If he wants top of the line i would use Amsoil Z-Rod.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2fzrt.aspx
If he is on a tighter budget...It would probably run pretty sweet Mobil 1 0w40 Euro formula found at walmart for like $22 a jug.
Or the 235.
I believe it's the 235 "stove bolt" six...what a great engine those were (my dad had a 1956 Chevy with that engine and a "powerglide" automatic...great car). +1 on the Rotella 10W30.
Either an HDEO 10w30 or 15w40 would be my choice for the old 235 6 cylinder Chevy Engine. I've been using Chevron Delo 400 15w40 in my Studebaker engines for the past 30 years with excellent results. I very rarely have to adjust valves and the engines are spotless inside. I have several friends that are running the old Chevy engines using a heavy duty engine oil with the same results.
Two classic-car oils from a couple of the Hemmings classic car magazines:
http://www.hemmings.com/classicoil/
http://penngrade1.com/
These are high zinc, high phosphorus oils specifically designed for use in classic engines which lack modern metallurgy.
If you own a classic car, you owe it to yourself to buy an issue of Hemmings Motor News at least once in a while, just for the professional ads (as opposed to the classified advertising that makes up the bulk of the magazine).
http://www.hemmings.com/classicoil/
http://penngrade1.com/
These are high zinc, high phosphorus oils specifically designed for use in classic engines which lack modern metallurgy.
If you own a classic car, you owe it to yourself to buy an issue of Hemmings Motor News at least once in a while, just for the professional ads (as opposed to the classified advertising that makes up the bulk of the magazine).
Originally Posted By: oilmaven
I believe it's the 235 "stove bolt" six...what a great engine those were (my dad had a 1956 Chevy with that engine and a "powerglide" automatic...great car). +1 on the Rotella 10W30.
It's my understanding that the "stove bolt" engines were only those produced between 1929-1936, (1st generation six cylinder Chevy's). Generations that followed, although basically an improved version of the original "stove bolts" are not actually "stove bolts." However, the name stuck all the way to the last straight six to roll off the line.
You're right, they were a great little engine that was very easy to work on and a lot of fun to drive. I had a '58 Chevy and loved that straight six.
I believe it's the 235 "stove bolt" six...what a great engine those were (my dad had a 1956 Chevy with that engine and a "powerglide" automatic...great car). +1 on the Rotella 10W30.
It's my understanding that the "stove bolt" engines were only those produced between 1929-1936, (1st generation six cylinder Chevy's). Generations that followed, although basically an improved version of the original "stove bolts" are not actually "stove bolts." However, the name stuck all the way to the last straight six to roll off the line.
You're right, they were a great little engine that was very easy to work on and a lot of fun to drive. I had a '58 Chevy and loved that straight six.
I'll agree with the Rotella 10w30. I ran SAE HD30 in my old '62 Bel Air 6cyl with no problems until I sold it in the 90's.
Originally Posted By: Boomer
However, he has heard from others that he needs an oil with higher zinc to keep the cam shaft lobes intact.
Back then, the oils weren't as high in ZDDP as we like to pretend they were. In fact, if I remember correctly, in the 1950s, they would have actually been significantly lower than they are now.
Nonetheless, I'd prefer a higher ZDDP lube, too. The suggestions for Valvoline VR-1 10w30 or a 10w30 HDEO would be my first choices. We've run similar vintage Chev engines in farm equipment with 10w30. Defy would be another option.
However, he has heard from others that he needs an oil with higher zinc to keep the cam shaft lobes intact.
Back then, the oils weren't as high in ZDDP as we like to pretend they were. In fact, if I remember correctly, in the 1950s, they would have actually been significantly lower than they are now.
Nonetheless, I'd prefer a higher ZDDP lube, too. The suggestions for Valvoline VR-1 10w30 or a 10w30 HDEO would be my first choices. We've run similar vintage Chev engines in farm equipment with 10w30. Defy would be another option.
We just use a PCMO 10W30 or 10W40 on Chevy straight 6's.
Like Garak said the oils in use when this motor was new could not hold a candle to today's oils.
Like Garak said the oils in use when this motor was new could not hold a candle to today's oils.
I used to have a 57 Chevy PU with a 235. I always ran Valvoline 10w30 conventional in it. I swapped the motor to a 283 at 350k. The 235 was still running but very tired. That was many years ago. If I owned it today I would run a HDEO.
I still think the Mobil 1 0w40 will beat any of the HEDO unless you either want to save 10 bucks or you just want to use a lighter 30 wt. The specs on Mobil 1 0w40 are amazing for the price if you have it available.
There's nothing "wrong" with Mobil 1 0w-40 in this application, but it is serious overkill. There is nothing special in a Chevy straight six that requires an SN lubricant with a laundry list of ACEA and European OEM specifications.
There is a very valid argument to avoiding the originally specified grades (i.e. I'd never use a straight grade even if you gave it to me for free). But, there is a point of diminishing returns on your dollar, and that applies to any vehicle. The only valid reason to consider Mobil 1 0w-40 in this application is that it costs no more than other Mobil 1 grades, generally speaking. But, Mobil 1 0w-40 isn't going to make the engine last any longer or perform any better than Rotella 10w30 or Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 10w30, either, which are both less than half the price.
There is a very valid argument to avoiding the originally specified grades (i.e. I'd never use a straight grade even if you gave it to me for free). But, there is a point of diminishing returns on your dollar, and that applies to any vehicle. The only valid reason to consider Mobil 1 0w-40 in this application is that it costs no more than other Mobil 1 grades, generally speaking. But, Mobil 1 0w-40 isn't going to make the engine last any longer or perform any better than Rotella 10w30 or Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 10w30, either, which are both less than half the price.
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Boomer
However, he has heard from others that he needs an oil with higher zinc to keep the cam shaft lobes intact.
Back then, the oils weren't as high in ZDDP as we like to pretend they were. In fact, if I remember correctly, in the 1950s, they would have actually been significantly lower than they are now.
You're absolutely correct. The AW additive levels of even today's SN fuel conserving oils is considerably higher and more advanced than what was used back in the day.
The lubrication demands of the '55 Chevy are not high and any XW-20 or XW-30 oil will be more than satisfactory. That's right i said XW-20 since a 20wt oil is one of the oils specified and what most used in the northern States and Canada. IIRC a straight 30wt oil was just for the hottest days of summer and you were doing something like trailer towing or long distance driving.
Even the 10w30 grade that was introduced about that time, sheared down to a 20wt oil after about 500 miles which was okay since oil consumption was typically pretty high back then so you're always topping up with oil pretty much every time you stopped for gas.
I believe the Chevy has an oil pressure gauge (most cars had them back then) so you knew what to top up.
I'm old enough to remember my late father used 20W-20 oil back in the 50's a lot and still into the 60's. 10W oil in the winter and cans of straight 30wt oil on summer vacation trips but not a lot of that.
For the OP I'd suggest any 5W-20 or 5w30 oil you've got in the garage or if you're going to buy some oil for it I'd suggest Quaker State Defy (for it's higher AW levels not that you necessarily need it but it also won't do any harm) in the 5W-20 or 5w30 grade.
Originally Posted By: Boomer
However, he has heard from others that he needs an oil with higher zinc to keep the cam shaft lobes intact.
Back then, the oils weren't as high in ZDDP as we like to pretend they were. In fact, if I remember correctly, in the 1950s, they would have actually been significantly lower than they are now.
You're absolutely correct. The AW additive levels of even today's SN fuel conserving oils is considerably higher and more advanced than what was used back in the day.
The lubrication demands of the '55 Chevy are not high and any XW-20 or XW-30 oil will be more than satisfactory. That's right i said XW-20 since a 20wt oil is one of the oils specified and what most used in the northern States and Canada. IIRC a straight 30wt oil was just for the hottest days of summer and you were doing something like trailer towing or long distance driving.
Even the 10w30 grade that was introduced about that time, sheared down to a 20wt oil after about 500 miles which was okay since oil consumption was typically pretty high back then so you're always topping up with oil pretty much every time you stopped for gas.
I believe the Chevy has an oil pressure gauge (most cars had them back then) so you knew what to top up.
I'm old enough to remember my late father used 20W-20 oil back in the 50's a lot and still into the 60's. 10W oil in the winter and cans of straight 30wt oil on summer vacation trips but not a lot of that.
For the OP I'd suggest any 5W-20 or 5w30 oil you've got in the garage or if you're going to buy some oil for it I'd suggest Quaker State Defy (for it's higher AW levels not that you necessarily need it but it also won't do any harm) in the 5W-20 or 5w30 grade.
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