'17 Civic: Dealer says A/C Compressor, Condenser, & Evaporator are all leaking
- Thread starter Nessism1
- Start date
Wrong. They have no requirements in regards to leaks in automotive systems.
It's been federal law for 30 years.
Options for Recharging Your Air Conditioner | US EPA
Identifies options for addressing leaks and recharging refrigerant in motor vehicle air conditioners.
www.epa.gov
"EPA does not require leak repair before refrigerant is charged into a vehicle, but some states or localities may require the practice. EPA regulations also do not dictate any particular service, as long as the technicians are certified and use recycling equipment that meets EPA standards. For example, EPA does not require that MVACs be evacuated and recharged instead of topped off. "
Attached is a pic of my 87 Accord 190K. Driven very little last 20 years. All original everything AC. Last recharge for R12 was at least 20 years. My daughter has a 07 Civic 155K. Original AC everything also, recharged about 4 years ago.
No leaks ever, I have a sniffer, cheap but works well.
FWIW - both made in Japan
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you can leak test through the vents, if you find whatever you put in the system in the vents, the evap is leaking. or dye comes out of the drain if they used that.
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We're all probably numb but when one thinks about it, it's disgusting to have people suggest we outright lie, in writing. It's insulting, that people think our price to cheat is so low ($2,000).
When I was told my RE050As were wearing fast in the rears and the dealer suggested I get new tires (one in north Jersey exit 148), I might want to consider that I have a tire warranty. Maybe I'm stupid as I never had a claim on the tire warranty, because, um, I never had any issue other than wear.
"I'm not telling you what to do but I'd find some nails if I were you." SA said they could replace all 4 tires no charge if I say so (implying they'll deal with the warranty co).
When I was told my RE050As were wearing fast in the rears and the dealer suggested I get new tires (one in north Jersey exit 148), I might want to consider that I have a tire warranty. Maybe I'm stupid as I never had a claim on the tire warranty, because, um, I never had any issue other than wear.
"I'm not telling you what to do but I'd find some nails if I were you." SA said they could replace all 4 tires no charge if I say so (implying they'll deal with the warranty co).
having worked in a dealership for more than 10 years…it’s definitely possible that the tech doesn’t want to do a warranty compressor seal and condenser as they’ll get shafted on labor, it’ll barely be completed quicker than warranty will pay them if at all by the time they deal with getting the car, the diag and write up, getting parts, completing work, parking it etc.
They likely want some customer pay work to fluff it and make it worth their time, and they know if you deny the work, they can refuse to do the compressor seal and condenser due to you not fixing another leak.
Not definitely the case, I’d like to think not? But it’s a possibility. Plenty of shady techs in dealerships.
One possible resolution could be you insist they do the warranty work and simply not recharge your system. You take the car back and get it charged on your own (I suggest an actual shop who will pull a good vacuum and leak check it, then properly charge by weight).
They likely want some customer pay work to fluff it and make it worth their time, and they know if you deny the work, they can refuse to do the compressor seal and condenser due to you not fixing another leak.
Not definitely the case, I’d like to think not? But it’s a possibility. Plenty of shady techs in dealerships.
One possible resolution could be you insist they do the warranty work and simply not recharge your system. You take the car back and get it charged on your own (I suggest an actual shop who will pull a good vacuum and leak check it, then properly charge by weight).
My daughter in law has a 2019 CRV and it needed a new compressor last year.
yes- this will work
I'll check the evap drain for dye this weekend. I'll also get another opinion. I'm planing to tell the dealership that I have no interest in paying big bucks for the evap work, I just want the compressor seal fixed, and maybe the condenser, if they can verify. Some work for them is better than none.
The last recharge lasted 28 months, and the A/C is not dead yet, maybe 50% performance. With the compressor seal fixed, that should get me another several years down the road, unless new leaks open up. That's better for me than paying thousands to fix a minor leak.
The last recharge lasted 28 months, and the A/C is not dead yet, maybe 50% performance. With the compressor seal fixed, that should get me another several years down the road, unless new leaks open up. That's better for me than paying thousands to fix a minor leak.
Options for Recharging Your Air Conditioner | US EPA
Identifies options for addressing leaks and recharging refrigerant in motor vehicle air conditioners.
"EPA does not require leak repair before refrigerant is charged into a vehicle, but some states or localities may require the practice. EPA regulations also do not dictate any particular service, as long as the technicians are certified and use recycling equipment that meets EPA standards. For example, EPA does not require that MVACs be evacuated and recharged instead of topped off. "
Correct, it's not federal law. It may be California law, though.
This car uses R1234YF refrigerant, which google suggests is quite safe.
R-1234yf, a hydrofluoroolefin (HFO) refrigerant, has a significantly smaller environmental impact than other refrigerants:
- Ozone layer: R-1234yf doesn't damage the ozone layer.
- Global warming: R-1234yf has a Global Warming Potential (GWP) of less than 1, which is more than 99% lower than its predecessor, R-134a
I'd purchase a quality compressor, do a good job replacing it, pull a vacuum for a good long time, and then recharge. Don't forget the required oil. Don't leave the system open for long, as moisture can get in. Use caps or bags, what ever you may have to keep it sealed.
Worst case, you don't have a vacuum pump, use the intake manifold vacuum for an hour, then purge the system with a can of refrigerant.
Worst case, you don't have a vacuum pump, use the intake manifold vacuum for an hour, then purge the system with a can of refrigerant.
Find a shady-looking shop and slip them some cash?
Its likely that the condenser contains the Drier. They dont mess with replacing just the Drier but replace the whole condenser instead,
Isn't Honda famous for AC compressor failures?Honda definitely doesn't make them like they used to.
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I’d be surprised if there was a statistically significant difference seeing as they source their compressors from Sanden, Hitachi, Keihin, Matsushita, maybe a Valeo Japan and Denso in there… all the usual suspects found in Japanese cars.
yup had it happen on my 91 where Honda replaced it under a secret warranty.. More like junk parts they knew would die and saving "face" they replaced it free. There were a lot of bad ones from Honda back then..
Avoid stop leak unless you are dumping the car. Many shops will refuse to work on a vehicle with stop leak as it messes up the filters in their recovery equipment.
