I appreciate the input very much, us f-body guys gotta stick together. I'll probably go get a 180 as soon as I can.
Bub
Bub
160 deg. thermostat
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Patman
Staff member
FWIW my LS1 still ran amazing quarter mile times even with the 160 thermo. With just 4.10s, BFG DRs, a cutout, ported stock MAF, MTI lid, egr mod, and an HPP3, it ran 12.68 at 110.6 and pulled 320rwhp. I doubt the stock thermo would've improved on this already awesome performance.
If you want some free HP, instant warm up, better economy and driver adjustable temperature get a Davies Craig electric water pump kit. fit yourself. I'll be adding one to my Outback soon.
Patman
Staff member
I wonder if that would've been cheaper for me to put on than the OEM water pump I just had replaced last week on my Firebird. Total cost for the repair at the GM dealer here was over $900 CDN!
The e-water pump is definitely a future mod. I think Mezier is coming out with a electric pump for the LS1's.
Bub
FWIW: I run a 160 stat in my 2002 Camaro V6 and ran one in my previous 2000 Firebird V6. The Firebird was an auto, the new camaro is a manual.
In many road tests the 160 stat proved to provide me with higher fuel economy than the 180 or 195 units, especially when I was crossing the country. The Fbody radiator is undersized and has a large cooling delta and thus requires a lot of wind to keep the vehicle cool or a larger radiator thats more difficult to heat.
When running a 160 stat I still passed the CA Smog test with flying colors and my V6 was in the SULEV catagory of cars (better than the factory ULEV rating). And my power has not dimenished one bit as my 2000 Firebird was putting down 175rwhp on the dyno when it had a lower 160-175 coolant temp. When the coolant temp went over the 200degree mark the dyno fell 7hp at the wheels, and this phenomenon was verified twice.
My dad owns a 99 C5 vette and swapped a new 160 stat into it. Oil temps are usually 180-190F and the coolant runs 165-172 on the interstate, it will warm up like an Fbody in traffic due to the small radiator and high fan temperatures from factory. He still makes 31mpg on the highway with it
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Just thought I'd share
In many road tests the 160 stat proved to provide me with higher fuel economy than the 180 or 195 units, especially when I was crossing the country. The Fbody radiator is undersized and has a large cooling delta and thus requires a lot of wind to keep the vehicle cool or a larger radiator thats more difficult to heat.
When running a 160 stat I still passed the CA Smog test with flying colors and my V6 was in the SULEV catagory of cars (better than the factory ULEV rating). And my power has not dimenished one bit as my 2000 Firebird was putting down 175rwhp on the dyno when it had a lower 160-175 coolant temp. When the coolant temp went over the 200degree mark the dyno fell 7hp at the wheels, and this phenomenon was verified twice.
My dad owns a 99 C5 vette and swapped a new 160 stat into it. Oil temps are usually 180-190F and the coolant runs 165-172 on the interstate, it will warm up like an Fbody in traffic due to the small radiator and high fan temperatures from factory. He still makes 31mpg on the highway with it
Just thought I'd share
I use a 160 stat in my 95 Camaro. No problems and my fans are set to come on early when I go to the track...
Jason
Jason
I did put a 160F T-Stat in my 1996 LT1 Corvette last spring....good thing is that the Vette has temp gages for everything (coolant, motor oil and Trans fluid), so I can report what happens when you go from a 180F to a 160F.
180F: Coolant temp is from 201 to 235 (mostly right around 210) depending on ambient temps, Motor Oil is from 205 to 245 (mostly around 216) and tranny fluid is around 200 to 220 (mostly 210.
160F: Coolant temp is from 173 to 210 (mostly 180 to 190), motor oil is 175 to 200 (mostly around 185 to 190) and tranny temp is 160 to 200 (mostly aound 175 to 180)
Bottom line, I like the 160 F in the Vette the best because I do not like the high temp spikes in engine oil and tranny fluid temperatures with the 180F.
[ April 06, 2003, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: Alex D ]
180F: Coolant temp is from 201 to 235 (mostly right around 210) depending on ambient temps, Motor Oil is from 205 to 245 (mostly around 216) and tranny fluid is around 200 to 220 (mostly 210.
160F: Coolant temp is from 173 to 210 (mostly 180 to 190), motor oil is 175 to 200 (mostly around 185 to 190) and tranny temp is 160 to 200 (mostly aound 175 to 180)
Bottom line, I like the 160 F in the Vette the best because I do not like the high temp spikes in engine oil and tranny fluid temperatures with the 180F.
[ April 06, 2003, 05:58 PM: Message edited by: Alex D ]
As stated above the t-stat is only for setting the minimum temp. On my '97 Taurus SHO 3.4L V8 the factory t-stat is the typical Ford 192F. With the fans set to come on at 215F. The V8 motor in the SHO is all aluminum and has a reverse flow cooling system. It will send a blended, cooler mix to the heads first. I believe the LS1 is similar. This is a very effective way to cool the motor and I have never seen any problems with temp control.
One of the problems though with putting a V8 in a Taurus is the underhood temps. The valve cover, wire loom and intake get as hot as the coolant temp, which is normal. But after shutting off the engine heat soak will heat things up to +250F. This melts the wires over time and ruins the individual coils.
Last summer I put in a 170F t-stat and the car still ran up to 215F where the fans came on. I installed an adjustable fan controller and now can set the fan turn on speed to just above 170F. This is where the temp stays except for when idling with the A/C on in +90F heat. Works very well.
FWIW the electric pumps that go in the radiator hoses will not work on reverse flow motors. The hot coolant needs to circulate past the t-stat base which opens to let in cool coolant. My plan is to drive the OEM pump with an electric motor. I also have a t-stat bypass set up that I can use to quickly cool the motor to ~120F if I want to before running down the strip. The Ford EEC-V is out of cold loop mode at 120F.
One of the problems though with putting a V8 in a Taurus is the underhood temps. The valve cover, wire loom and intake get as hot as the coolant temp, which is normal. But after shutting off the engine heat soak will heat things up to +250F. This melts the wires over time and ruins the individual coils.
Last summer I put in a 170F t-stat and the car still ran up to 215F where the fans came on. I installed an adjustable fan controller and now can set the fan turn on speed to just above 170F. This is where the temp stays except for when idling with the A/C on in +90F heat. Works very well.
FWIW the electric pumps that go in the radiator hoses will not work on reverse flow motors. The hot coolant needs to circulate past the t-stat base which opens to let in cool coolant. My plan is to drive the OEM pump with an electric motor. I also have a t-stat bypass set up that I can use to quickly cool the motor to ~120F if I want to before running down the strip. The Ford EEC-V is out of cold loop mode at 120F.
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