'16 Honda Pilot Front struts replacement

[Nukeman7]

The OE strut will be correctly tuned for the application, not rapidly degrade in performance and will last another 89K.

Well worth the $160 over the KYB junk.

I find this opinion to not align with my personal experience with KYB struts. While internet opinions on KYBs vary between excellent and junk, I have personally installed KYB Excel-G struts on four different Honda vehicles that have performed flawlessly over 4 to 16 years. In fact, the oldest set on a 2001 Accord improved the handling feel because they were 10% firmer w/o losing ride compliance. The KYBs on our Element has ~170,000 miles on them and still perform the same as new.

Who knows? Did I get exceptionally lucky or has the quality of KYB struts degraded in recent years? For full transparency, the last set of KYBs I installed was in 2020 during the pandemic.

 

[Andyd95]

In addition to what I’ve included already?

Yes

 

[parshisa]

Ordered KYB struts and all Honda hardware (bearing, mount, bumper stops and all rubber parts). I’ve also ordered new axle nuts assuming I’ll have to remove the knuckle, but not sure if it’s necessary. I can’t seem to find the manual for struts replacement, just a couple of videos online. If anyone can share a link to a solid video or manual, would greatly appreciate it

 

[Nukeman7]

Ordered KYB struts and all Honda hardware (bearing, mount, bumper stops and all rubber parts). I’ve also ordered new axle nuts assuming I’ll have to remove the knuckle, but not sure if it’s necessary. I can’t seem to find the manual for struts replacement, just a couple of videos online. If anyone can share a link to a solid video or manual, would greatly appreciate it

You may have to destroy the sway bar links to remove the upper stud from the strut ear mount. If they are designed like all of the OEM Honda sway bar links I have ever replaced, the nuts used are interference threads designed to deform upon installation. Removal is nearly impossible without destruction of the stud and nut. I would plan in advance to replace them, preferably with the respective CTR Sway Bar Link which have the wrench flats on the base of each stud to aid tightening.

While I am not familiar with the 2016 Pilot specifically, I would at least consider using the improvised technique shown in the video below to eliminate disconnection and possible damage to the ball joints and tie rod ends. Using the technique shown, I would secure the wooden board to the strut cylinder with thick tie-wraps to keep it from slipping during compression. Since I haven't tried this method, you must decide if it is worth any potential risk.

 

[parshisa]

You may have to destroy the sway bar links to remove the upper stud from the strut ear mount. If they are designed like all of the OEM Honda sway bar links I have ever replaced, the nuts used are interference threads designed to deform upon installation. Removal is nearly impossible without destruction of the stud and nut. I would plan in advance to replace them, preferably with the respective CTR Sway Bar Link which have the wrench flats on the base of each stud to aid tightening.

While I am not familiar with the 2016 Pilot specifically, I would at least consider using the improvised technique shown in the video below to eliminate disconnection and possible damage to the ball joints and tie rod ends. Using the technique shown, I would secure the wooden board to the strut cylinder with thick tie-wraps to keep it from slipping during compression. Since I haven't tried this method, you must decide if it is worth any potential risk.

thank you for suggestion on the links. I've ordered new OEM links, rubber boots on the olds ones were torn so was planning to change them anyways.

the method in the video is a bit sketchy to me. while it certainly worked, there's too many thing that can go wrong, from getting injured to putting too much stress on the suspension components. I think I'm going to be removing the knuckle, ordered the joint separator tool, hopefully will aid with removal.

 

[parshisa]

So far @The Critic has been 2 for two: AM water pump warbles as predicted, and KYB struts came in today - one is sticking (won’t retract without force applied), and the other one takes virtually no force to compress and leaves a fluid film on the shaft every time it retract (these are going back for replacement). Oh well, live and learn

 

[troymcclure]

Count me in as another person with good experiences with KYB. I liked the Excel-Gs over the stock Sachs struts on my Nissan. Went that route as I wanted something firmer. Seeing as Bilstein doesn’t make much for Asian cars and Tokico stopped selling aftermarket in the US, that pretty much leaves KYB as my first choice for aftermarket. Haven’t been burned yet but I’ve only used them on 2 personal cars. I’m sure you professionals out there see more and can speak to the broader experience.

I’m surprised Honda doesn’t sell a loaded strut for your Pilot. They do for my Fit and I plan on using them when the time comes. The OEM Showa struts are crazy good and even 12 years in I still haven’t found a reason to replace them yet.

 

[John105]

As far as quick struts being bad, these are likely an exception because I think IPD has put them together. The good news is I dealt with these guys when I was a TEENAGER. I’m no spring chicken, so it warms my heart to see they are still in business.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/572...wering-Kit-2004-2007-S60R-V70R-Volvo-31212036

 

[rijndael]

I just did this job, I had 80K on my ODO. The front end bounced around like a boat.

Both KYB complete / quick struts weren't in stock. I could get one but not the other, so I just got the KYB struts. I re-used the boots, since mine were in good shape, and it wasn't super clear how to cut the original for use with the new 2 piece setup.