14 Tundra brakes

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14 Tundra 5.7 CM has factory brakes with 58k on them. Most of the time the brakes stop normal with no issues. Sometimes they start pulsating & moving the steering wheel. I have not been able to determine a common denominator on why. Any thoughts or is a front brake job required?
 
No .... I try to be very easy on brakes. I have had other vehicles do this in the past, but they did it all the time. This one being occasional has me stumped.

My city has no gutters on its streets. Any rain causes the streets to become small rivers. Could be all the water this year.
 
Originally Posted By: WTJackalope
No .... I try to be very easy on brakes. I have had other vehicles do this in the past, but they did it all the time. This one being occasional has me stumped.

My city has no gutters on its streets. Any rain causes the streets to become small rivers. Could be all the water this year.



You just answered your own question. Cold water + hot rotors=warped rotors.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Go make a few 50-10 mph hard stops and see if that helps
 
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If it becomes unbearable bring it to a shop with an on-car brake lathe or take a weekend off, pull the calipers and rotors and drop the rotors off at a machine shop.
 
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: WTJackalope
No .... I try to be very easy on brakes. I have had other vehicles do this in the past, but they did it all the time. This one being occasional has me stumped.

My city has no gutters on its streets. Any rain causes the streets to become small rivers. Could be all the water this year.



You just answered your own question. Cold water + hot rotors=warped rotors.


By that logic anyone who drives in an area that receives rain (which is most everyone) has warped rotors. Do we need to swap rotors every time it rains?
 
I had to re-bed the aftermarket rotors on my tundra several times before they seemed to bed in properly. it's a gen1 so it's probably a different animal than yours. I would suggest re-bedding them. It sounds so minor at this point that a re-bed is all that would be needed.
 
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The problem comes and goes?

Usually I think of a warped rotor as being always warped. In this case it does sound like deposits coming and going, although I wouldn't they could "come and go" quite so fast.

I have wondered about unbalanced wheels on my truck, as sometimes it'll have that shake around 55--and sometimes not. Depending upon how many turns I take, each of the wheels is in a different phase relative to the others. So sometimes I wonder if I have two wheels with slight imbalances that, once in a while, manage to hit the right frequency to shake.

No chance you have a loose lug, unbalanced tires, or just a cruddy road surface?

*

Have you popped off the wheels and checked the pads? Big heavy truck, should be expected to use up brakes at a good clip. Might be a good time to check pad thickness. I don't know what pads you want to use, but The_Critic keyed me into the fact that Toyota dealerships may try to sell you a non-OEM lower-cost pad which may or may not be what you want to install.
 
It could be bad road surfaces. We have more than our fair share around West Texas.
Right now leaning towards turning the rotors & Wagner Thermo Quiet.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
Originally Posted By: CKN
Originally Posted By: WTJackalope
No .... I try to be very easy on brakes. I have had other vehicles do this in the past, but they did it all the time. This one being occasional has me stumped.

My city has no gutters on its streets. Any rain causes the streets to become small rivers. Could be all the water this year.



You just answered your own question. Cold water + hot rotors=warped rotors.


By that logic anyone who drives in an area that receives rain (which is most everyone) has warped rotors. Do we need to swap rotors every time it rains?



He said the street becomes rivers. No-not rain-but if your driving through a foot of water with hot brakes over and over again-your rotors will in all likelihood become warped.

I had a company car that I had to keep clean for business purposes-many times at the end of a 150 mile day it would go to the car wash. You could see the steam come off the rotors. Yes, warped rotors were a frequent problem on that car.

You can try it and let me know the results.
 
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Originally Posted By: bvance554

By that logic anyone who drives in an area that receives rain (which is most everyone) has warped rotors. Do we need to swap rotors every time it rains?


Water droplets from rain and total immersion in high water are two different things.

I used to live in both South and West Texas were the OP is from. It is dry most of the time but when it rains, many of the streets and crossing can be come high water in minutes.

Hot brake rotor can shrug off a few rain droplets, it cannot so much in sudden and full immersion.
 
After 58,000 miles I would think you're about ready for front brakes anyway. Replace the rotors. FWIW I've used the advance auto parts rotors with good results. In some cases they are better than the originals. I'm also wondering if you may have some rust from all the rain, being that the problem isn't consistent. My Silverado would set for a couple months at a time, and I once took it over the mountains of Western Maryland on I-68. The brakes shuddered, then went away after a while braking down the mountains. The problem was rust buildup.
 
Ouch. 58k miles is only a little more than half what we get here out of 9000 pound fleet vans. OP may be able to find better parts in the aftermarket as it seems those Tundra brakes are a bit under sized for the massively heavy vehicle.

Rust is a thin coating that forms on the rotors every night here. It is also removed at the first stop sign down the road. In Fl it never causes anything except a slight grind at the first application of the brakes...
 
My 2010 is in the salty Northeast, and was (IIRC) a business lease for the first 73k of its life. Dealer CPO'd it and sold it to me with the original front rotors, which are still on it after 100k. I bet the front rotors are fine. [IIRC they are nearly 14" in diameter--nothing to sneeze at.]

Has the OP torn them down and inspected yet? At the very least check on how much pad material is left.
 
I have not inspected the rotors or pads yet. Have an appointment in a couple of weeks to have them inspected & front ...rear differentials fluid change and also transfer case fluid.


On a side note no shimmy from brakes through the steering wheel for the last few hundred miles.
 
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