1157 automotive bulb question

[mjk1967]

Morning.

My vehicle uses 1157 bulbs (amber) for both front turn and a poor DRL design.
I bought a pair of LED 1157 bulbs and installed them this morning. I am getting that rapid flash of an open circuit.
Is this due to the LEDs pulling less wattage?

I guess unless I hear otherwise, that was a waste. Will have to return to Halogen bulbs.

Thanks.

 

[BrendanC]

correct, you would need resistors to pull extra wattage to make the hyper flash go away. you can also replace your flasher relay with a “LED” version.

 

[mjk1967]

Thanks !
So in doing a quick read, it appears like the flasher relays were eliminated about 10 years ago ?? I'm just going by a couple of forums I pulled up on a search. This is a 2017 Nissan Quest, so I'll have to take a peek later.

 

[skyactiv]

Walmart has the Sylvania bulb resisters in stock in stores for $14.88.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/SYLVANIA-LED-Load-Resistor-2-Pack-5-x-5-x-5/52621707?classType=REGULAR

 

[meep]

Rapid flash is intentionally done by automakers to alert the driver of a failed bulb. You’ll either need resistors crossing over + to - which creates more load, or you’ll need to modify the vehicles software settings (if possible) or do other hacking.

NOTE - I’ve tested a good brand (Philips) 1157. They run cool in low output mode but get too hot to touch, easily 170+F in bright mode if left on constantly. They seem as hot as incandescent. I have no idea how long they will last in that DRL configuration.

 

[Kira]

Will have to return to Halogen bulbs.

Halogen 1157? Pretty sure they'd be filament bulbs.

BTW, what year, what car?

 

[mjk1967]

Halogen 1157? Pretty sure they'd be filament bulbs.

BTW, what year, what car?

yes, misspoke.
see above for the info your looking for.

I'm just going to replace with new filament bulbs. A Nissan/Infiniti thread had indicated the flasher relay had been eliminated by the late 00's.
RockAuto does not list one either, so the BCM must be involved.

No harm, no foul. Lesson learned for someone else.

 

[mjk1967]

Rapid flash is intentionally done by automakers to alert the driver of a failed bulb. You’ll either need resistors crossing over + to - which creates more load, or you’ll need to modify the vehicles software settings (if possible) or do other hacking.

NOTE - I’ve tested a good brand (Philips) 1157. They run cool in low output mode but get too hot to touch, easily 170+F in bright mode if left on constantly. They seem as hot as incandescent. I have no idea how long they will last in that DRL configuration.

Yeah, that's why I don't run the DRL very often if at all. It's kind of an old school set up, without a dedicated DRL system.

 

[ag_ghost]

1157s are specified for my 61 year old Ford. Surprising (to me anyway) they're still used on autos in the 21st century.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

FIL's '16 Renegade uses P21/5W for DRL and parking lights. Many use the 1157 in place as the P21/5W was harder to find and even more so if you want amber. I think I found that the 1157 is like 27 watts for brake and 8 watts for parking so brighter and hotter.

I actually just ordered some amber P21/5W, we'll see when they get here. The sockets on the Renegade get VERY hot because in Jeep (Fiat) wisdom they run the brake light portion for the DRL at 14+V.

You would think that they would run the lower wattage filament for the parking lights also.........NOPE. They reduce the voltage to 5V on the brighter filament when headlights are on. There are only 2 wires going to the DRL/Parking light bulb, not 3. LED replacements don't work due to the 5V.

When DRL's are on over not too long of a time frame the solder / socket / contacts actually get hot enough and lose connection. Solder gets melted/arc'd off.

 

[mjk1967]

You can have a laugh at my expense.
I went to a WM to pick up the replacement filament bulbs yesterday. All the lightbulbs are locked up behind glass. A second customer comes over to the desk, and we start to talk -- he is seeking a car battery, and THEY are locked up as well. LOL

Waited about 5 minutes for an employee to come, of course nobody did, and I bolted.

 

[Carmudgeon]

FIL's '16 Renegade uses P21/5W for DRL and parking lights. Many use the 1157 in place as the P21/5W was harder to find and even more so if you want amber. I think I found that the 1157 is like 27 watts for brake and 8 watts for parking so brighter and hotter.

I actually just ordered some amber P21/5W, we'll see when they get here. The sockets on the Renegade get VERY hot because in Jeep (Fiat) wisdom they run the brake light portion for the DRL at 14+V.

You would think that they would run the lower wattage filament for the parking lights also.........NOPE. They reduce the voltage to 5V on the brighter filament when headlights are on. There are only 2 wires going to the DRL/Parking light bulb, not 3. LED replacements don't work due to the 5V.

When DRL's are on over not too long of a time frame the solder / socket / contacts actually get hot enough and lose connection. Solder gets melted/arc'd off.

The P21/5W is commonly available as a 7528, in Osram/Sylvania speak, or 12499 in Philips guise. Worse come to worst, and there is an immediate need, any Euro marque dealer should be able to supply them, because those are the proper type-approved bulbs that those vehicles use.

The PY21/5W is a rarer bird, but amber lights are used for signaling, and position marking, not DRLs, which should be white, so that's not a usual application.

As a different bulb, of higher nominal wattage, the 1157 should not be substituted in place of a P21/5W. People who do, including many BMW owners, can discover the same results as pictured -- overheated and melted or charred sockets -- simply in brake/tail applications with intermittent duty, not even continuous duty as with a DRL application. Or, because the ECE type-approved bulb is required to have nickel-plated bases for corrosion resistance, and 1157s are not, that can be a potential issue as well.

Bulb failure detection circuits can also balk, or act oddly when the unexpected values it senses when the improper bulb is used.

It's a common mistake, but anyone here should not be surprised that proper specs, if ignored, can lead to unintended consequences.

 

[Sequoiasoon]

The P21/5W is commonly available as a 7528, in Osram/Sylvania speak, or 12499 in Philips guise. Worse come to worst, and there is an immediate need, any Euro marque dealer should be able to supply them, because those are the proper type-approved bulbs that those vehicles use.

The PY21/5W is a rarer bird, but amber lights are used for signaling, and position marking, not DRLs, which should be white, so that's not a usual application.

As a different bulb, of higher nominal wattage, the 1157 should not be substituted in place of a P21/5W. People who do, including many BMW owners, can discover the same results as pictured -- overheated and melted or charred sockets -- simply in brake/tail applications with intermittent duty, not even continuous duty as with a DRL application. Or, because the ECE type-approved bulb is required to have nickel-plated bases for corrosion resistance, and 1157s are not, that can be a potential issue as well.

Bulb failure detection circuits can also balk, or act oddly when the unexpected values it senses when the improper bulb is used.

It's a common mistake, but anyone here should not be surprised that proper specs, if ignored, can lead to unintended consequences.

Funny part is that when I first looked up the bulbs a couple years ago, I couldn't find the P21/5W available. I went to the Jeep dealer and paid the higher prices just no install labor. They gave me 1157's at parts counter. I questioned it and he said that's they what they use.

I actually just ordered some Osram 7528Y's the other day and will try to test some ohm's resistance as compared to the 1157's. Only spots I could find on a limited search was on ebay, aliexpress so hopefully not fake. The ebay seller has 98% rating with over 75k feedback for last decade.

I'll probably reach out to Osram anyway to ask where to buy physically or online from authorized seller.

The white 7528's are available at AAP, AZ and others. Worst case we'll swap back to white but again odd to me as then the parking lights on front are white.

 

[paulo57509]

You can have a laugh at my expense.
I went to a WM to pick up the replacement filament bulbs yesterday. All the lightbulbs are locked up behind glass. A second customer comes over to the desk, and we start to talk -- he is seeking a car battery, and THEY are locked up as well. LOL

Waited about 5 minutes for an employee to come, of course nobody did, and I bolted.

My local WM is the same. But a lot worse.

Most everything in the toy department is under lock and key too.

 

[Carmudgeon]

Funny part is that when I first looked up the bulbs a couple years ago, I couldn't find the P21/5W available. I went to the Jeep dealer and paid the higher prices just no install labor. They gave me 1157's at parts counter. I questioned it and he said that's they what they use.

I actually just ordered some Osram 7528Y's the other day and will try to test some ohm's resistance as compared to the 1157's. Only spots I could find on a limited search was on ebay, aliexpress so hopefully not fake. The ebay seller has 98% rating with over 75k feedback for last decade.

I'll probably reach out to Osram anyway to ask where to buy physically or online from authorized seller.

The white 7528's are available at AAP, AZ and others. Worst case we'll swap back to white but again odd to me as then the parking lights on front are white.

A lot of nuances that are often missed, including by "pros." But "it fits, and lights up" is the standard by which many go by.

There is also a P21/4W (7225), and of course the more common single-filament P21W (7506) (≠ 1156), and its amber version PY21W (7507), with offset pins to prevent interchange with the clear version.