100,000 miles engine life with SA/SB labeled oils

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I wonder if you can use SA/SB labeled non certified mineral oils for 100,000 miles in a new vehicle?
lets say you do 3000 mile oci with this oil, will the engine make it to 100,000 miles without failure?
would the manufacture know the difference in the event of a failure? Imagine you brought in all the invoices for oil changes if they asked you.
is anybody in this practice? LOL!
I would love to hear opinions on this subject!
 
political hot potato! over 100 views no replies!! LOL!!!
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I'll take a jab at it. I'd say yes, I had many cars that dated back to the 60's that went well over 100,000 miles with 3000 mile OCI's. Better designed engines of today, why not?

The only way the mfg could blame oil for a failure is if the motor blew up and they sent a sample of the oil off to be tested.
 
Originally Posted By: pickled
Me thinks that the motor would be mortally wounded, or need a coronary bypass due to sludge.

I may agree with you. how can you bash a product sold in every gas station in USA like that! where is your proof!?
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I'm just thinking of the heat and sump temps of today's modern emission compliant vehicles. 190 + t-stats, EGR, and smaller oils sumps make it a tall challenge for group I mineral oil with a little calcium and ZDP. Most folks, I hope, only use this stuff for top up and not as a steady diet because it doesn't meet or parallel any of the required specifications to be fit for use in their vehicles.
 
I agree the engine would suffer from the poor oil, but todays engines go 250,000 miles pretty easy. All we're looking for is 100,000 miles. :)
 
Originally Posted By: lazaro
I wonder if you can use SA/SB labeled non certified mineral oils for 100,000 miles in a new vehicle?
lets say you do 3000 mile oci with this oil, will the engine make it to 100,000 miles without failure?
would the manufacture know the difference in the event of a failure? Imagine you brought in all the invoices for oil changes if they asked you.
is anybody in this practice? LOL!
I would love to hear opinions on this subject!


If its a newly overhauled Chrysler slant-6, sure. A couple of times over.

If its a new-off-the-showroom Chrysler 2.7 or a Toyota 2.0... I'd LOVE to see the result of trying that.
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You can go buy a 5qt jug of Supertech right now at $9.50.

Walmarts are easy to find. Engines are not.

If you have a source of SA oil I wouldent bother putting it in my lawn mower. Just go and have it all recycled.

Now, if you have some modern straight 30 weight, not the Non-detergent stuff, I would use that to top off no problem.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
You can go buy a 5qt jug of Supertech right now at $9.50.

Walmarts are easy to find. Engines are not.

If you have a source of SA oil I wouldent bother putting it in my lawn mower. Just go and have it all recycled.

Now, if you have some modern straight 30 weight, not the Non-detergent stuff, I would use that to top off no problem.

with so many scientist here in my local town that use the stuff in new cars I was hoping one of them would let me pay for a UOA so I could post it here, they all tell me they dont need it and Im crazy
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Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Now, if you have some modern straight 30 weight, not the Non-detergent stuff, I would use that to top off no problem.


I use SAE30 straight up.
 
Back in 2005 the Alliance of Automobile Manufacturers published a report on the use of SA rated oils (group 1 basestock with zero additives!) in modern engines:

http://www.ilma.org/resources/impact_lowqualityoils.pdf

The terrible thing is, most reports say that 10-15% of the finished motor oil sold in the US every year is this "SA" junk. In 2003 California stepped up the requirement to put a big label on this [censored] warning people that it isn't suitable for modern engines.

http://www.lubereport.com/e_article000165744.cfm?x=a1V9Pkj,a101R1PT
 
some of the adds and stability requirements have to do with the conditions seen in modern engines. Folks have mentioned many, such as high RPM, EGR, etc.

Oil isnt ust oil, the basestock and add pack is designed to face the most up to date, most severe conditions with some level of certainty. They are always better, or backwards compatible, but not the other way around...

Im sure it would be doable in a decent engine... but it likely wouldnt be pretty...
 
This is the motor oil equivalent of "Super Size Me". Take a perfectly healthy engine, subject it to the least refined, lowest quality lubricant available, change every 3000 miles until the engine hits 100K or dies, whichever comes first.

What we need is a Toyota Prius owner to take on this challenge. They think their cars (and, by extension, themselves) are so superior, lets see how they REALLY hold up with an API SA oil.
 
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