Got a new motor put in last week @54.5K on my new to me 1.0L 17 focus with the wet timing/oil pump belts. Calls for 5w20 syn blend. Plan on doing 5K intervals. Gonna do a 500 mile break in oil change and change it at 55K. Runs and drives good has kind of a rough 5-4 downshift tht lunges you forward a bit. Flushed it and still is there. I’m only $3300 in the car with 54K I kbb’s for almost 8-9K i may throw a trans in it down the road if it gets worse. But back to the Q, lol. I can get 5w20 syn blend and 0w20 synthetic oil for free at work….. or I’ve got 4 jugs Kirkland full syn 5w30 that I have in my garage. I plan on using that on my 22 gas maverick. I though that I can use it for better heat protection since it’s such a small turbo motor. Thought?
1.0L Focus oil choice
- Thread starter gabriel9766
- Start date
Use a full synthetic. If you can get full syn 0w20 at work, use it 
Doesn't that 1.0T actually have a real transmission?
Doesn't that 1.0T actually have a real transmission?
Yes, 6F15Use a full synthetic. If you can get full syn 0w20 at work, use it
Doesn't that 1.0T actually have a real transmission?
What caused the engine failure?
Wet Oil pump belt/tensioner failed
Well it’s already had one motor with 54K. Ford has a recall on it that’s supposed to fix it beginning of next year.
dnewton3
Staff member
Can you provide details for this claim? The inference I take is that belt failure is avoidable if you use Ford spec oil ... That seems incredulous to me. What is it in the oil spec that assures belt success over other choices?
I like those cars, and at a $3,300, I can see this as a way to go. The problem is that engine and this very, very low mileage catastrophic failure. It would be difficult to ever be confident taking it out on the open road. On the other hand, I am sure this car still feels and drives nicely. Shame on Ford for this and a few other under designed engines.
For your oil choices, flip a coin.
The OP mentioned the tensioner failure. Belts should last longer than 50K miles in any engine.
The 948-B spec is for low SAPS, fuel saving characteristics and piston ring deposit control. A quick glance did not mention that it was formulated for belt life. I'd have to do more research on that one.
However, I'd simply say that wet belts that fail, fail because they are rubber belts immersed in scorching hot oil.
I just purchased a 5.0 V8 F150 with wet oil pump belt. I'm giving strong consideration to installing an Accusump (accumulator) system with an electric oil pump as a backup. Or some form of latching-on electric oil pump if oil pressure fails. Could save the engine.
Here’s some stuff on the engine. Enjoy.
The belt looks pretty beefy.
Assuming this is the same specification we use over here, which I'm pretty sure it is. Then yes, there does seem to appear to be a direct correlation between the belts failing and the oils used. Specifically, it is regularly shown those that use the Ford labelled Castrol oil seem to suffer with no belt issues at all.
This goes against everything I believe in, cause if I had a 1.0 Ecoboost the first thing I'd want to put in it is M1 0w40!
Why has nobody developed a retrofit chain kit for these things yet?
Well it wouldn’t be about the grade anyway. If there really was something Uber-Special it would be contained in some aspect of the material specification.
But color me skeptical on that one. If it were true that there is secret pixie dust in the MS then Ford would make quite a hoopla about requiring the spec, which they do not.
I suspect there is something in the additive package of the Castrol oil that is beneficial to the belts. But honestly, I have no idea. I can only go by other peoples accounts. Generally people are getting these belts changed between 60k and 90k. Those that run the Ford/Castrol oil specifically are reporting the belts to be in perfect condition. Those regularly changing the oil with the correct specification but not the Ford/Castrol branded oil are showing 'tired' looking belts. Where those who neglect oil changes and/or use incorrect oils are ended up with dead engines, either because the teeth have fallen off the belts or debris from the belt has clogged the oil pickup and starved the engine of oil.
That whole correlation-causation thing. Is there any data, reports, or statements from reputable sources to verify this?
If true that’s a hecka bad design to rely on a specific ingredient to prevent failure.
Nothing. Other than a lot of people on Facebook groups along with lots of garages videoing the timing belt changes on Facebook/Instagram showing these issues.
Interestingly, the 2.0 Ecoblue engine used in the Transit also has a wet belt. Those fitted in FWD applications always seem to have worse-off looking belts than those in RWD Transits. The RWD Transits run a viscous fan setup and I wonder if the constant airflow to the timing belt area results in a cooler belt?
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