0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, 20w-

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OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael
 
Most of the charts are rather confusing to me as well, but to my understanding its a viscosity at a certain temperature. Best I can explain it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:
OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael


I don't have a SAE J300 spec sheet handy right now, but the Xw in a multi-grade oil indicates that the oil meets certain cold temp flow and pumping requirements at certain temps. 0w is tested at much lower temps (-35 I believe) than is 20w, thus it must have better low temp flow and pumping properties than a 20w.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:
OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael


Those are the weight of the base oil at 32 degrees. In other words a 5W30 pours like a 5 weight oil at 32 degrees. The W stands for winter. As the oil gets hotter it thickens and at 212 degrees it pours like a 30 weight.
 
It throws me off at times too bc an oil like GC, being a 0w is thicker then most 10W's at 40C.
 
Here's the SAE J300 Viscosity Grade spec:

 -
 
quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:

quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:
OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael


Those are the weight of the base oil at 32 degrees. In other words a 5W30 pours like a 5 weight oil at 32 degrees. The W stands for winter. As the oil gets hotter it thickens and at 212 degrees it pours like a 30 weight.


lol.gif


Boy, do you need to spend more time learning about oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:

quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:

quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:
OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael


Those are the weight of the base oil at 32 degrees. In other words a 5W30 pours like a 5 weight oil at 32 degrees. The W stands for winter. As the oil gets hotter it thickens and at 212 degrees it pours like a 30 weight.


lol.gif


Boy, do you need to spend more time learning about oil.


I don't think the "Average JOE" is looking for any technical spec. sheet **.

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20040601ov.html
 
quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:

quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:

quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:

quote:

Originally posted by Michael Wan:
OK, I'm not sure if I understand completely as to what the 0w-, 5w-, 10w-, 15w-, and 20w- ratings mean. Would someone please help me?

Thanks,
Michael


Those are the weight of the base oil at 32 degrees. In other words a 5W30 pours like a 5 weight oil at 32 degrees. The W stands for winter. As the oil gets hotter it thickens and at 212 degrees it pours like a 30 weight.


lol.gif


Boy, do you need to spend more time learning about oil.


I don't think the "Average JOE" is looking for any technical spec. sheet **.

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/ccr/ccr20040601ov.html


Perhaps not. But one should assume that he is looking for accurate answers to his questions, which yours was not.
 
The number is the viscosity, or resistance to flow at a given temp. The "W" means the oil is suitable for winter use. It does not mean "weight" which it is commonly used for.

If an oil is 10w-40, it means the oil acts like a 10w at cold temps and a SAE 40 at high temps. This is accomplished by means of viscosity index improvers in the oil.

Generally speaking, the closer the numbers, the fewer index improvers are required, thus more lubricating properties in the oil (as index improvers dont lubricate). In addition the closer the numbers typically will result in the oil staying "in grade" longer and better.

Which one is right for your car? Look at the owners manual. If you dont have one, go to www.castrol.com and they have a nice "oil calculator" which will tell you which oil is suitable for your car for your climate.

As important as your choice of oil is, your choice of oil filter is also important. I would stick with either OEM from the dealer or a quality aftermarket filter like WIX or MANN. I think Purolator makes acceptable products, but i've never been happy with Fram products.
 
quote:

Originally posted by hominid7:
The number is the viscosity, or resistance to flow at a given temp. The "W" means the oil is suitable for winter use. It does not mean "weight" which it is commonly used for.

If an oil is 10w-40, it means the oil acts like a 10w at cold temps and a SAE 40 at high temps. This is accomplished by means of viscosity index improvers in the oil.

Generally speaking, the closer the numbers, the fewer index improvers are required, thus more lubricating properties in the oil (as index improvers dont lubricate). In addition the closer the numbers typically will result in the oil staying "in grade" longer and better.

Which one is right for your car? Look at the owners manual. If you dont have one, go to www.castrol.com and they have a nice "oil calculator" which will tell you which oil is suitable for your car for your climate.

As important as your choice of oil is, your choice of oil filter is also important. I would stick with either OEM from the dealer or a quality aftermarket filter like WIX or MANN. I think Purolator makes acceptable products, but i've never been happy with Fram products.


Sorry to point out but the most statements in your post are too simplistic, outdated, or getting close to be outdated.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
It throws me off at times too bc an oil like GC, being a 0w is thicker then most 10W's at 40C.

Don’t try to understand.
Just accept.
GC is unique!
grin.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by vad:
Sorry to point out but the most statements in your post are too simplistic, outdated, or getting close to be outdated.

Simplistic by design. The original poster seemed to need a brief overview on what the numbers mean, which i attempted to give instead of an overcomplicated dive into something too complex.
 
quote:

Originally posted by hominid7:

quote:

Originally posted by vad:
Sorry to point out but the most statements in your post are too simplistic, outdated, or getting close to be outdated.

Simplistic by design. The original poster seemed to need a brief overview on what the numbers mean, which i attempted to give instead of an overcomplicated dive into something too complex.


If you haven't noticed already some of these guys that have been here a while are really arrogant. To me that spec. sheet is pretty much useless. I don't think they know what is means either.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Warstud:
If you haven't noticed already some of these guys that have been here a while are really arrogant. To me that spec. sheet is pretty much useless. I don't think they know what is means either.

And you call us arrogant? Maybe after you've been on here as long as some of have and actually learned something the J300 sheet will mean something to you and you'll actually understand it.
 
The way I personally use the "W" value is; the temperature at which the Low Temperature Pumping Viscosity spec applies to a given grade is the minimum temperature that the engine should be cold-started at using that grade of oil. Obviously some oils, especially synthetics, will work at lower temps, but the spec itself only guarantees it down to about that temperature.
 
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