0W-20 vs. 5W-20 in Modular V-8

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Danh

Fwiw, the 2015 Escape Owners' Manual (for example) still refers to only 945 for the 2.5/1.6L 5w/20 engines.


It would, because the engine spec's 5w-20, which is the 945 standard. The 947 standard is, as we've noted, for 0w-20, so it would only be spec'd for 0w-20 applications. My question, and the answer probably would only be known by seeing the documentation from Ford, is whether 947 includes 945, IE, 947 can be used in 945 applications.

 

[robertcope]

The 0W-20 AFE PDS used to mention 945, up until a few months ago. Personally, I run it in my 3V 5.4L and feel good about it.

robert

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: robertcope
The 0W-20 AFE PDS used to mention 945, up until a few months ago.

+1 - I am not sure what is happening with the PDS, but all of the AFE 0W-20 jugs that I have show 945 and the "old" one has 945 and 930 on it. The EP 0W-20 jug shows both 930 and 945. I would not be concerned in the slightest--AFE is going into my 2014 Explorer next and I feel very confident the warranty is not in jeopardy.

"New" AFE 0W-20 Jug:

"Old" AFE 0W-20 Jug:

M1 EP 0W-20 Jug:

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: synthetic_crazy
2010_FX4, I have to say that your 15k mile oil analysis really gave me the confidence to switch to the 0W-20 AFE. Thank you for your contributions to this site.

...his 10k mile oci on MS5K 5w20 did the same for me. I second your accolades.

Thanks you two--you are both quite welcome!

 

[buck91]

FWIW just remember on those mod motors that nothing changed in the design or anything when Ford re-spec'd them for 5w-20 from 5w-30.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: buck91
FWIW just remember on those mod motors that nothing changed in the design or anything when Ford re-spec'd them for 5w-20 from 5w-30.

Meaning?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: buck91
FWIW just remember on those mod motors that nothing changed in the design or anything when Ford re-spec'd them for 5w-20 from 5w-30.



Ummmmmm. No.
Quite a lot changed actually. The original 4.6 from the 90's come equipped with what we call npi heads. Non-performance improved. In 99 the performance improved head was released and the engine gained 40+ hp.
In 04 some trucks came equipped with the 3v engine,the Mustangs got that engine in 2005.
The 3v engines have a phaser on the cam to adjust valve timing for the specific rpm range.
I'm sure there's more little things that changed as these engines evolved but to say they are the same isn't accurate.
There are millions upon millions of 4.6 engines out there running the prescribed 20 grade and as we all I'm sure are aware just how durable these modular engines are.
Unless a person exceeds the engines operating limits and it runs oil temps that are significantly higher than is what generally can be described as normal then going thicker is pointless.
Yes fuel consumtion is increased using thicker oil,though only minutely,but it's still burning money unnecessarily,so why not run the recommended grade. It's not like going thicker is going to significantly affect the engines reliable lifespan.
And as far as M1 meeting a ford spec.
Gimme a break.
There isn't a shred of doubt in my mind that if mobil says 0w-20 AFE is suitable and recommended where a 5w-20 was the original specification then one can take that to the bank as being truth.
If they while write it on labels and it's actually addressed on the mobil website then you can count on it being so.
I'm pretty sure Exxon isn't in the habit of making unfounded recommendations and I'll guarantee their in house testing and the data acquired reflects their recommendations.
I'm no fan of mobil however I would use the oil,any of their oils fir that matter if the price was right.
Most engines aren't that picky when it comes to oil. As long as the lubricant falls into the operational range required when hot,and cold pumpability is appropriate based on ambient temps then the engine will run fine.
I'm a thicker is better guy however the millions of North American vehicles using 20 grades aren't dissolving and engines today outlive the car it's installed in no matter what oil gets used.
All that translates to great running engines at the auto wrecker.

 

[Nate1979]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: buck91
FWIW just remember on those mod motors that nothing changed in the design or anything when Ford re-spec'd them for 5w-20 from 5w-30.

Meaning?


I thought he meant that nothing can change in the engine design when back specing because the engines are already existing.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: buck91
FWIW just remember on those mod motors that nothing changed in the design or anything when Ford re-spec'd them for 5w-20 from 5w-30.
Meaning?
I thought he meant that nothing can change in the engine design when back specing because the engines are already existing.

As Clevy said, it depends on the model year. The later models had quite a few changes associated with xW-20 use (larger oil pans, oil coolers, etc.). If he is referring to the early engines which were simply back specc’ed then, yes, he is correct that nothing changed. However, if somehow, he is attempting to suggest that xW-20 is a problem in these engines there are simply too many of them that would argue that point (mine included).

 

[Jakob_1992]

Back when I had my '04 Mustang, I used 0W-20 AFE in the winter. Loved how easy the car was to crank, seemed to get up to temp a little quicker, too. It did use oil a little more noticeably than with the previous fill of PP 5W-20.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Jakob_1992
Back when I had my '04 Mustang, I used 0W-20 AFE in the winter. Loved how easy the car was to crank, seemed to get up to temp a little quicker, too. It did use oil a little more noticeably than with the previous fill of PP 5W-20.



As far as cold cranking when I used afe in my 04 hemi ram starting wasn't laboured with temps at start up as cold as -45.
I'm not sure how managed to infer the engine achieving operating temp quicker. Oil grade has no bearing on how fast it warms up nor how fast the coolant heats up.
And what exactly are you using to gauge this perceived faster warm up?
Because if you are referring to the stock gauges then you aren't aware of how they work. Neither the oil pressure nor coolant temp sensor has any numbers and nor do they display actual values.
The oil pressure has a sensor that only knows whether the pressure is too low or too high. I've seen mod motors with 5 pounds of oil pressure at idle that read dead center on the pressure gauge.
The gauge itself is the typical "idiot light" type and only warns you when there isn't any pressure at all.
Coolant temp gauge uses the same type of sensor and works in the same way. it doesn't display actual coolant temps,it just displays normal or too hot.
As far as mod motors are concerned I consider FX's data the most relevant because of how he operates the vehicle.
Seeing his data on AFE and EP I now am absolutely certain a 10000 mile drain isn't even worth spending the extra money synthetic costs. Any API certified conventional will run 10000 miles easily.
FX is one of the rare cases here who understands that a uoa's function is to test the serviceability of an oil based on many variables including tbn and contamination due to coolant intrusion/poor air filtration and he modifies his interval based on the data acquired,so his feelings never distort reality,as well as the cheap insurance nonsense theory.
Wear metals are hardly relevant unless there is a spike of hundreds of ppm,not 10.
I know the 2v is bulletproof regardless of oil choice. Why pay extra due to the parasitic losses in relation to pumping thicker oil.
Unless of course the engine is operated in a severe manner which may require more resistance,higher viscosity lubricant.
Ambient summer temps are hardly relevant and gone are the days of requiring a viscosity adjustment when the seasons change however I will admit preferring thinning out my oil for the winter months though it's not necessary anymore.
If you aren't going to extend the oil change interval then don't bother spending the extra money on a syn. You only succeed in spending more money since engine longevity will be unaffected.
Contrary to popular belief dumping oil that is still serviceable and pouring in new serviceable oil means absolutely nothing was gained and the engine will not last any longer for your efforts.
Changing the oil prior to reaching the specific condemnation points is a waste of money especially if your doing uoa.
I see members post their uoa and the tbn is like 5,yet they still change it. I don't understand. Paying for data,paying for expensive oil then ignoring the data and wasting still serviceable oil on the premise that its black.
Hilarious what people can convince themselves of.