09 Mini Cooper S...I hate this thing...won't start

[twelve]

So a little back story... My dad bough this thing back in 2012 and has been pretty problem free up until about the last 2 years. He didn't really drive it a whole bunch so as of right now it only has 69k miles on it.

It started running rough one day and my brother ended up changing the spark plugs and coil packs (had to do the coils cause they all broke when he removed them) and it ran fine after that. Then all of a sudden one day it wouldn't start. It'll crank all day long but would never fire up. So my dad ends up passing away and my mom gives me the car. Fist off I'll admit I'm no mechanic, but I'm a pretty good parts changer. So I do research and find that the fuel pumps go bad on these things quite often so I change the in tank fuel pump and fuel filter. Still won't start. So I bring it to a local shop that specializes in BMW's and they couldn't figure it out. They said it had the wrong spark plugs in it so they changed them, did a compression test (passed) and a spark test (all 4 cylinders getting spark) and still wouldn't start. So I brought it back to the house and I changed the HPFP and still nothing. I seems like it's getting fuel as I was able to purge a bunch out when I swapped out the HPFP. So I thought maybe the ECU was bad (saw a video on youtube). I found a company that tests them so I sent them the DME, CAS module and the key. They installed everything on their parts car and it fired right up. I'm at a loss and don't know where to go from here. I would like to get it running but I'm not far off from sending it to the junkyard. I can't just keep dumping money into it either.

So anyone have experience with these things and know what else I can check? It's not throwing any codes either.

 

[Rand]

Its obviously possessed.. burn it with fire.

 

[KrisZ]

Consider it a lesson learned, you don’t just start throwing parts at a problem just because someone on the internet suggested it.

Did you get it scanned for codes? If so, what were they?
Did you verify it has spark?
Did you verify timing?

I know that a bad crank position sensor can manifest in a crank, no start, but again it’s just a guess. Stuff like this usually will throw a code.

Edit:
Just noticed no codes comment, was that with generic code reader or a manufacturer specific one?

 

[wpod]

Hate is a good thing when it comes to getting another vehicle. While not being even close to an expert on this subject I worked at a forklift dealership and one customer had an electric forklift that would all of a sudden quit working. All the best guys were sent out and couldn't find the problem. The shop ended up changing lots of expensive parts and still the problem existed. I was returning to the shop and was in the area asked to do a maintenance service on the forklift. It was an easy service. I stripped of the sheet metal blew off the dirt lubed and did the necessary inspections and operational checks, put it back together and it was dead. Poop ! I thought what did I disturb ? I retraced my steps and with dumb luck I found no current past the main fuse which was a 10 amp inline fuse that ran the [computer] I changed the fuse and it ran, I never said anything to any one and the forklift according to the owners never had the quitting problem again. Some times it is hard to find the problems and there are some awesome techs, but you have to find them.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Have you tried a BMW specific code scanner. The generic ones don't do much on BMWs

 

[twelve]

Consider it a lesson learned, you don’t just start throwing parts at a problem just because someone on the internet suggested it.

Did you get it scanned for codes? If so, what were they?
Did you verify it has spark?
Did you verify timing?

I know that a bad crank position sensor can manifest in a crank, no start, but again it’s just a guess. Stuff like this usually will throw a code.

Edit:
Just noticed no codes comment, was that with generic code reader or a manufacturer specific one?

That was with my BMW specific code reader and the fancy one at the shop.

I do have a new crank and camshaft sensor to put in it for ****s and giggles, but the tach does move while it's cranking so I'm sure the ones in there are fine.

 

[KrisZ]

That was with my BMW specific code reader and the fancy one at the shop.

I do have a new crank and camshaft sensor to put in it for ****s and giggles, but the tach does move while it's cranking so I'm sure the ones in there are fine.

The tach may take readings from somewhere else, but I don’t know minis specifically.

Try downloading service manual for it, these sensors can be tested with a simple multimeter. It should also have a troubleshooting flow chart for your situation.

Since the car sat for so long, the wiring harness could’ve been chewed up by rodents.

But again, you can’t be guessing. The basics are always needed, spark, fuel, timing. That’s where you should start. A factory FCM is also a big help.

 

[Rand]

Consider it a lesson learned, you don’t just start throwing parts at a problem just because someone on the internet suggested it.

Did you get it scanned for codes? If so, what were they?
Did you verify it has spark?
Did you verify timing?

I know that a bad crank position sensor can manifest in a crank, no start, but again it’s just a guess. Stuff like this usually will throw a code.

Edit:
Just noticed no codes comment, was that with generic code reader or a manufacturer specific one?

Most of that was answered in the first post.

Do these have an engine immobilizer? How does that work (cut spark? cut gas?) maybe that is malfunctioning.

 

[KrisZ]

Most of that was answered in the first post.

Do these have an engine immobilizer? How does that work (cut spark? cut gas?) maybe that is malfunctioning.

Was answered but not verified by OP. Since the mechanic didn’t fix anything, I would not trust his diagnosis.

Also, immobilizes do not allow any cranking and will have a rapidly blinking light somewhere on the dash.l if they malfunction.

 

[wpod]

Consider it a lesson learned, you don’t just start throwing parts at a problem just because someone on the internet suggested it.

Did you get it scanned for codes? If so, what were they?
Did you verify it has spark?
Did you verify timing?

I know that a bad crank position sensor can manifest in a crank, no start, but again it’s just a guess. Stuff like this usually will throw a code.

Edit:
Just noticed no codes comment, was that with generic code reader or a manufacturer specific one?

I have a bi directional code reader and I am not talented enough to exploit its features. As I learned in my continuing education classes , If you live by the code you die by the code. We need to know what causes the code.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Aftermarket coils pumps filter? incorrect plugs?

Sounds like a DIY problem. No aftermarket dealer installed remote starter or alarm?

Time to go to day 1 step 1.

 

[atikovi]

Very first thing I would do is spray some starting fluid down it's throat and hopefully isolate the problem to fuel or ignition, and work from there. Any chance it has bad gas?

 

[twelve]

Very first thing I would do is spray some starting fluid down it's throat and hopefully isolate the problem to fuel or ignition, and work from there. Any chance it has bad gas?

It's a turbo, throttle body is pretty much under the car and inaccessible.

From doing some digging on a Mini forum, it could literally be anything.

Found something about JBE fuse box in the passenger kick panel. I'll have a look at that when I get home.

 

[KrisZ]

It's a turbo, throttle body is pretty much under the car and inaccessible.

From doing some digging on a Mini forum, it could literally be anything.

Found something about JBE fuse box in the passenger kick panel. I'll have a look at that when I get home.

So why can’t you jack up the car and spray starting fluid there? It’s a very quick and easy way to see if the engine fires up or not.

Good idea on fuses, I presume you checked the ones under the hood already?

 

[atikovi]

It's a turbo, throttle body is pretty much under the car and inaccessible.

Spray behind the air filter.

 

[Number_35]

Sorry to hear about your dad!

Back to basics as KrisZ said.

To run, an engine needs compression, air and fuel in the correct proportions, and a spark at the right time.

Do you have a timing light? If so, check that the timing is close.

If so, that means there's spark at the right time (or close enough). That would likely point to a fuel problem.

Does the engine have a timing belt?

 

[Dave Sherman]

Does the engine have a timing belt?

Ditto, is there any way to see what's happening with the valves? Lifters moving as it's cranking? Belt/chain hasn't slipped teeth or broken?

 

[Shel_B]

I had similar issues with a couple of cars. One was a Honda, and the clutch had to be depressed in order for the engine to start. No matter how I tried, I couldn't get the engine to start. Eventually, I moved the floor mat out from under the pedal and the car started immediately. Bottom line is that there was an interlock of some sort, and the floor mat had moved some and prevented the interlock from working properly.

I have two keys for my current Camry. One morning I used the second key to start the car. It wouldn't work. The engine would crank but it wouldn't start. Turns out that the backup key wasn't programmed to interface with the computer ... it was just for opening the doors and trunk. When I used the main key, the car started in a heartbeat.

One of the service items for a number of Toyotas is to adjust the floor mats. People were bringing their cars in for service because the mats would interfere with the interlock.

Maybe you can check for such things on your Mini.

 

[justalubetech]

I would start by spraying some brake clean or starting fluid into the air filter and see if it tries to do anything. If it does I would suspect maybe rodent damage to fuel pump wiring since it sat for a while.

I know you dont want to dump more money into it but maybe find a different shop/dealer - a competent one should be able to at least quickly identify if it's a fuel/immobilizer/ etc issue

 

[xspeedy]

if you can remove the fuel line to the fuel rail that supplies the injectors, you can validate that you are getting fuel when you turn on the ignition. Not start the car but just to get the pump to activate ahead of a start. You can try cranking too if you don’t see anything. Have a vessel to catch the fuel.