'08 Volvo XC70 D5 AWD

[Astro14]

Correct! The total includes the purchase price.

The idea is to get it to a standard for ~£5k and then maintain it until we decided what we are doing with it.

The $6,000 budget has been the target for several of the well-sorted Volvos in my signature that were then given to the kids.

Get them fettled, sorted, and they last a long time.

It is a matter of correcting the previous owner’s neglect, whether intentional or not.

I’m a fan of your choice, naturally.

But fix that caliper bracket…that would bother me…

 

[Bailes1992]

The $6,000 budget has been the target for several of the well-sorted Volvos in my signature that were then given to the kids.

Get them fettled, sorted, and they last a long time.

It is a matter of correcting the previous owner’s neglect, whether intentional or not.

I’m a fan of your choice, naturally.

But fix that caliper bracket…that would bother me…

Yeah, currently trying to source a replacement bracket. Most XC70's here in breakers seem to have 300mm discs, ours has 316mm.

The bolt torqued up fine several times, and at least 2/3rds of the thread remained, but I'm not happy with it in the slightest.

If I can't get a bracket sorted soon then I'll look to helicoil the bracket we have.

 

[Kalle.J]

Yeah, currently trying to source a replacement bracket. Most XC70's here in breakers seem to have 300mm discs, ours has 316mm.

The bolt torqued up fine several times, and at least 2/3rds of the thread remained, but I'm not happy with it in the slightest.

All AWD P3 should have atleast 316mm front disc's and ventilated rear disc's.
Incl. V/S 60-70
Most of the time the bracket is included with the caliper though.

Got V60 AWD calipers on mine right now.

Shout if you need help with art.nr

 

[Bailes1992]

An issue I was aware of when I purchased the car was heavy steering when the engine was at idle. I've already ordered a pump, but figured it would be worthwhile to give the system a flush first to see if it improves things.

I pulled the Volvo up to the garage (which is currently having a little makeover, but I'll save that for my Mini thread)...

The old PAS fluid was black like diesel oil and very thick...

And when drained I was left with a lovely layer of sludge on the inside of the reservoir

I back flushed the reservoir with some brake clean and compressed air and also scrubbed the internal filter with a toothbrush, although the dirt would be on the inaccessible internal part of the filter so don't think it di an awful lot.

I filled the car back up with CHF...

The reservoir holds around 250ml. I took the car for a drive around our housing estate ensuring I did lots of lock to lock, U turns, etc to 'mix up' the new fluid with the old. I then went home, drained the reservoir and filled it back up then repeated this 3 more times.

Afterwards the fluid was far cleaner...

You can see in this photo where the old oil was mixing with the fresh. This was the last drain and fill...

I do think it's made a slight difference. The pump is a tad quieter and the heavy steering now only happens at standstill with an idling engine where before it was happening at slow speeds. But either way, the pump needs to be replaced.

Pump is on it's way, so I'll get it changed and do another flushing procedure like this one to get the fluid a bit cleaner again and hopefully all will be well.

 

[Bailes1992]

Well two days later and the PAS fluid looks like this again. I think the sludge I found in the reservoir is present throughout the system and the new fluid is cleaning it up.

I'm a week or two away from replacing the PAS pump, so I think I'll go buy another litre or two of fluid and just do daily drain and fills of the reservoir until the fluid stays somewhat clean. I just don't want to destroy a new pump with dirty fluid.

 

[meep]

Good work on the gradual fluid change. If it were a Japanese car I’d play with other additives or fluids, but on this, CHF is the right move. Agree with your speculation. Keep it up! Any consideration to a magnefine inline filter for 10k, then another for 100k?

Speaking of which, an inline magnefine on a p2 transmission I had remarkably improved the trans after about 15k miles. Do consider one there.

 

[Astro14]

I would replace the reservoir - if it has a filter in it - and you said it does - then there is no telling how much junk is accumulated in that filter on this side you could not reach with a toothbrush.

CHF-202 (or the older CHF-11s) should be about right for this system. I would lean toward the 202, I believe it has a synthetic base.

E

Thread 'Pentosin 202 vs 11s PSF'

Dec 4, 2014

What's the difference between these two? My 2005 Saab 9-5 seems to take the 11s, but '06 and on Saabs take the 202. Is the 202 a newer, better fluid?

• ET16
• Replies: 8
• Forum: ATF, Differential, Trans, Brakes, P/S

 

[GSCJR]

I would lean toward the 202

I agree, and it looks like the Granville is backwards compatible.

 

[Bailes1992]

Good work on the gradual fluid change. If it were a Japanese car I’d play with other additives or fluids, but on this, CHF is the right move. Agree with your speculation. Keep it up! Any consideration to a magnefine inline filter for 10k, then another for 100k?

Speaking of which, an inline magnefine on a p2 transmission I had remarkably improved the trans after about 15k miles. Do consider one there.

I did consider trying to remove the filter from the reservoir and installing an inline filter. May revisit this.

Once the system is clean and a new pump is installed then I'll probably dose it with Forte Power Steering Treatment to help condition any seals in the rack etc. I've had good luck in the past with Forte products.

https://www.forteuk.co.uk/product/power-steering-treatment/

I would replace the reservoir - if it has a filter in it - and you said it does - then there is no telling how much junk is accumulated in that filter on this side you could not reach with a toothbrush.

CHF-202 (or the older CHF-11s) should be about right for this system. I would lean toward the 202, I believe it has a synthetic base.

E

Thread 'Pentosin 202 vs 11s PSF'

Dec 4, 2014

What's the difference between these two? My 2005 Saab 9-5 seems to take the 11s, but '06 and on Saabs take the 202. Is the 202 a newer, better fluid?

• ET16
• Replies: 8
• Forum: ATF, Differential, Trans, Brakes, P/S

As I said above, I'll either try and break the filter out somehow and install a magnefine filter on the return line or I'll throw a new reservoir on there.

I agree, and it looks like the Granville is backwards compatible.

It's a lot cheaper too. The website says it's a fully synthetic CHF fluid suitable for where CHF 11S or CHF 202 is required/specified.

I pay around £10/litre for it vs £20/litre for Fuchs Pentosin CHF 11s.

https://www.granvilleoil.com/techData/pdfTechData?ptdID=204

Granville are considered quite reputable here in the UK and are found in a lot of car parts suppliers. That said, I thought Mannol was reputable and I'm sure you've seen me change my opinion on here about them quite rapidly.

Anyway, more goodies turned up over the weekend. Hoping, weather allowing that this weekend I can do a full service on the engine including changing the glowplugs and also replace the power steering pump.

I did a drain and fill on the power steering on Friday. My Wife did just short of 400 miles over the weekend, so will do another drain and fill tonight and each night until the weekend. Hopefully the fluid will be clean enough then not to destroy a new pump.

 

[Bailes1992]

Not the next update I was hoping for, but my Wife came out of work to the car like this…

Quite a bit of water has found its way inside the car, luckily it’s limited to footwells.

I’ll wet vac it first thing in the morning and get a heater in there for the day. Luckily we have some sun forecast for the next week or so and very little rain. Little bit upset about this, not going to lie. I’m quite fond of the old bus already.

My biggest worry at the moment is the amplifier under the drivers seat. That said my Wife drove it home from work and the radio was just fine.

I’m glad I bought an XC70 rather than a V70. I don’t think a V70 would have survived this.

 

[meep]

OUCH.

Man I’m so sorry. Pull the carpet up, dry it, layer towels over it with cinder block on top to press water into the towel… you can get it up. I landed a Subaru with water over the entire passenger side of the dash years ago, and drove it 300 miles the next day, and never had any electrical problems with it. Yours isn’t buried under water, so I think it’ll be alright. Just stinks to go through it.

Are there any vents down low enough to need lube change? Haldex? Axle?

 

[Bailes1992]

Started the clean up earlier. Wet vac'd out as much water as possible and threw a dehumidifier in there.

Guess I was a little premature with the dehumidifier because a few hours later it looked like this...

I've wet vac'd it out again, but I think I'm going to need some small heaters in there. I've pulled 3 litres of water out of the carpet so far and it's still coming.

That dilemma aside, I decided to replace the boot struts today. They've been a little tired since we bought the car. On cold days or if you park downhill then sometimes the boot doesn't stay open and slowly closes. Autodoc had some struts on their website for £5 each and figured they couldn't be any worse than the 16 year old ones that are currently failing.

I followed Volvosweedens Youtube video...



However, I'd like to add that I think it's probably worth removing the entire headlining as per VIDA instructions. Fighting with the headlining, trying not to crease it with your arms jammed between the roof and the itchy fibrous backing of the headliner is not fun. The job would have been far easier and quicker with the entire thing removed.

You can see the old N/S strut with it's spring here...

When I got it out and compared it to the Ridex idem from Autodoc I thought for a second I'd ordered the wrong parts...

I went back on the Autodoc website and confirmed the part number of the OE strut was listed against the new strut and figured I had nothing to loose so get them fitted!

Here I am using a ladder to support the boot mid installation...

I used some Lucas grease in the ball cups to ease installation...

And the new strut fitted (albeit this is the O/S)...

Good news is that despite appearances, the new struts fit and work great! For how long? Well... we will soon find out I guess. I have high hopes for them!

Unfortunately or maybe even fortunately I noticed a black cable dangling from a plug in the roof with a scotchlock on the end...

Well curiosity got the better of me.

 

[Bailes1992]

It turns out it was a part of the towbar wiring. And how on earth this car hasn't suffered from serious electrical issues or a fire from this is quite surprising.

Who needs a fuse anyway? Just tap straight out the fusebox...

It gets worse, I promise! Look at this mess...

Ignoring the fact the 'insulation' on the scotchlock is missing, at least they put a cable tie either side of this joint to stop it sliding up and down the cable...

I'd removed the insulated part of the scotchlock myself here. You can clearly see the splice has been sliding down the cable as it's about an inch away from the actual copper...

If you follow the white cable, you will see a scotchlock on either end. Was it not long enough? I don't get it? Why would you do this?

This red cable was scotchlocked to the brake light wire in the N/S cluster loom, and then scotlocked again with a black cable coming off to the high level brake light. That black cable being the initial cable I spotted above the headlining. Again... why?

The passengers slide loom had also been butchered. You could see where the cables that didn't have a scotlock on, had been previously scotchlocked. And again, the remaining scotchlock has slipped down the cable onto the insulation...

They also must have decided that the 12v unfused feed from the fusebox right above where this module sat wasn't long enough because they've wago'd it and extended it an extra 6".

Oh, and there's this...

Somehow, and I have no idea how at all, the trailer electrics actually functioned.

 

[Bailes1992]

I decided for the time being to just rip it out. I wouldn't have been comfortable leaving all that installed. So an hour later and I had all the wiring repaired and taped up nicely...

Will have to look into either removing the towbar in it's entirety or installing the electrics properly. If I do the latter then I'll want to fit a vehicle specific loom that sits on the canbus network with the more modern 13pin plug. But, that's not priority right now.

 

[Bailes1992]

The plan for this weekend was a full service, replace the glowplugs and also the failing power steering pump. Unfortunately, as my last post showed, my Wife parked the car in a space known for flooding during heavy rain. Therefore, the interior needed a good strip, clean and dry. I was hoping a heater and a dehumidifier would solve the issues but the sloshing about when driving quickly told me there was an awful lot of water in the car and something needed to be done.

Luckily for me, the carpet is in 3 sections. There's a drivers footwell section, a passengers footwell section and a rear footwell section.

I removed the drivers footwell carpet first and was greeted by a good 2" of water sat in the footwell...

The carpet has an open cell foam backer bonded to it which has absorbed water like an absolute sponge.

Passengers side is even worse...

And the entire interior ripped out and the car thoroughly dried using a wet vac and compressed air...

You can see the puddle around the rear carpet where the water had been running out of it while it stood there for an hour...

Getting the water out of this foam backing it turning out to be an issue. I've tried extracting it to no avail and I left the carpets upright in the garage overnight with a 1kw heater blower pushing air over them but it didn't seem to help at all...

We have a dry night forecast with 47mph winds, so the carpets are now lying on the patio out the back garden while I hope the wind helps dry them out. I can't reassemble really unless they're bone dry.

To be continued...

 

[Astro14]

The plan for this weekend was a full service, replace the glowplugs and also the failing power steering pump. Unfortunately, as my last post showed, my Wife parked the car in a space known for flooding during heavy rain. Therefore, the interior needed a good strip, clean and dry. I was hoping a heater and a dehumidifier would solve the issues but the sloshing about when driving quickly told me there was an awful lot of water in the car and something needed to be done.

Luckily for me, the carpet is in 3 sections. There's a drivers footwell section, a passengers footwell section and a rear footwell section.

I removed the drivers footwell carpet first and was greeted by a good 2" of water sat in the footwell...

View attachment 246209
View attachment 246210

The carpet has an open cell foam backer bonded to it which has absorbed water like an absolute sponge.

View attachment 246211

Passengers side is even worse...
View attachment 246212

And the entire interior ripped out and the car thoroughly dried using a wet vac and compressed air...

View attachment 246213

You can see the puddle around the rear carpet where the water had been running out of it while it stood there for an hour...


View attachment 246214

Getting the water out of this foam backing it turning out to be an issue. I've tried extracting it to no avail and I left the carpets upright in the garage overnight with a 1kw heater blower pushing air over them but it didn't seem to help at all...

View attachment 246215

We have a dry night forecast with 47mph winds, so the carpets are now lying on the patio out the back garden while I hope the wind helps dry them out. I can't reassemble really unless they're bone dry.

To be continued...

You’re doing this the proper way. A lot of work, but a lot of future headaches (from corrosion and mold) avoided.

 

[Bailes1992]

Well since the night I cleaned the PAS reservoir and did 3 drain and fills, I've done another 4 drain and fills and the fluid still doesn't look too great. I'm still running under the assumption that the PAS system is full of sludge and the new fluid is just cleaning it up.

I'm hoping to get the pump changed this weekend, and I've purchased a brand new reservoir. I think I'll continue with my drain and fills even with the new pump until it starts to clean up.

This was after a drain and fill last night followed by a 10 minute drive around.

Anyway, onto the very wet interior. I had a nightmare drying out the foam on the back of the carpets. After 3 days with the heaters on them they were still totally sodden. I then brought them in the house and leaned them up against a radiator but that didn't help either. I started to consider buying new carpets but the carpets in the available breakers didn't look great and a new set came in at over £400. In a last ditch effort to save the carpets, I put all our clean towels (much to the delight of my Wife) on the floor of our dining room, put the carpets on top and then walked around on the carpets for 20 minutes. Low and behold, they were almost dry! Another 24 hours in the house and they were dry to touch.

The floors in the car were 'dusty', I don't think this was from the flood, but rather foam 'dust' that has fallen off the back of the carpets over the last 16 years of our Volvo's life.

Not the best picture, but you can kind-of see the dust here...

I spent half hour just giving the floors a good scrub with an anti-bacterial all purpose cleaner and some brushes. I figured it would be wise, not only to clean up the dust, but also to kill any germs that might be lurking from the wet and potentially cause smells later on...

It was kind of surprising how much better the floors looked after a good scrub. You can kind of see a comparison between the O/S and N/S in this photo...

I had some sound deadening material on the shelf which I bought for our Dacia Logan a few years ago and never put to use. So I figured it wouldn't hurt to install it in the Volvo while the carpets were up...

The carpet was wet-vac'd again, this time with fresh water to ensure any remaining cleaning products were removed and treated with an application of Valet-Pro Enzyme Odour Eater before reinstallation...

Centre console cleaned and reassembled...

And seats back in...

I found two plugs under the passengers seat that didn't seem to have homes. The seats are working just fine, so if anyone has any idea it would be appreciated.

 

[Bailes1992]

Next puzzle I need to solve was found while I was stripping out the interior.

We have the rear seat entertainment package which includes a DVD player in the armrest and screens in the back seats. However, we cannot get audio out of it.

When I removed the armrest I found this weird make-shift bodge job connecting the AUX port to the car loom...

If you can't work it out. There appears to be strands of what looks like the inner cored of a CAT5e or CAT 6 cable connected to a short loom from the AUX port with WAGO connectors.

Now looking back at the wiring diagram, I can't work out if cars with rear seat entertainment have a different AUX port to those without. It seems to be listed as two separate items...

But I can't work out if that means two separate part number, or just that they're wired differently.

The wiring diagram for the standard audio system shows 3 pins or cables connected to the AUX port...

I'm assuming here that 74/403 is the connector the cable has been kind-of jammed into. And as you can see, here the AUX port is just labelled as 16/123.

Then if you have rear seat entertainment the AUX port looks like this...

As you can see, the AUX port is now called 16/123.2 but also has 7 pins connected to it, 4 of those going to the DVD player.

I think the plan of attack here is to find out if the AUX ports are the same. Initial thing to check would be to count exactly how many pins there are in the back of the AUX port, if there is only 3 then it's obvious that there are different AUX ports and we have the wrong one. If there is 7 then I need to start looking into part numbers.

Once I've worked out if we have the right AUX port, and if we don't get the correct item then I need to look for the loom (or looms?) that sit between the AUX port and DVD player/car.

Of course, if anyone is able to advise on this, it would be appreciated.

For the time being, I've just put it back the way I found it but taped it up better.

At this moment in time I'm assuming the AUX port has broken and someone has replaced it with the wrong one. And that green connector is supposed to go directly into the correct AUX port. However, that also means that connector isn't 74/403 like I said above.

 

[Bailes1992]

So a little research later and I found the installation manual for the rear seat entertainment system if you were to purchase it as a retrofit.

This is the AUX port currently fitted to our car with 4 pins...

And the RSE kit comes with a replacement AUX port that's clearly wider to accommodate the additional pins in the connector...

I can't find any of the correct AUX ports on eBay. I also cannot find a part number for it anywhere. If anyone is able to assist then I would be quite grateful.

I'm going with the theory that at some point the old AUX port has failed and someone has replaced it with the incorrect item and bodged some kind of solution together.

EDIT - I found it, the part number is 30790263 but I can't find one anywhere! The part is discontinued by Volvo, so I guess that's why the 'wrong' AUX port has been hacked into our XC70.

 

[Bailes1992]

Well I’m feeling quite annoyed with myself. So since we bought the car, the power steering pump was getting a little lazy. When the car wasn’t moving and the engine was at idle, there was very little assistance.

I always advise people should buy parts from a reputable manufacturer, ideally OEM as there’s an awful lot of junk out there.

I ordered a pump via AUTODOC from a Polish manufacturer called ESEN SVK. The pump had a couple of good reviews against it and I figured it’s not in AUTODOCs interest to sell junk.

I started this morning by getting the car in the air…

And I drained the PAS fluid…

And removed the old reservoir…

I then removed the O/S arch liner to gain access to the tensioner and pump…

And in short order had the belt off!…

At this point I stopped taking pictures for a little bit. The pump required the A/C compressor to be removed along with the PAS pulley while in situ. With the length of the D5 engine, very little room remained and it was quite a fiddly affair. But eventually, out it came…

And transferred the suction pipe and flow pipe bracket over to the new pump…

Again, I forgot to take any photos due to the frustratingly fiddly nature of installation of the new pump. But I did take this photo showcasing the new pump buried deep down the front of the engine below the alternator and the new reservoir fitted and filled with fluid…

While bleeding the new pump I was happy to note fully functional power steering. However, there is a whine and an occasional gravelley rattling coming from the new pump.

So, it seems like I need to do this 4-5 hour job all over again. Who knows, maybe I’ll be faster this time.

I’ve found a few local companies who might be able to refurbish the old ZF pump. If not I’ll order up a new Meyle one for around 1.5x what I paid for this one.

I also found the air conditioning compressor totally siezed with the belt missing, so I guess that’s why the A/C doesn’t work.

Starting to feel like this car has it in for me right now. Every job I do I have to revisit or I find something else I need to go back to and put right. But maybe this one is my fault for going with an unknown brand.

TBC.

Oh, my Wife has removed the rear tints, and the car does look so much better for it! So I guess that’s one good thing.