‘08 Subaru Forester upper radiator hose

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Aug 15, 2009
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523
Location
Colorado
Hey folks,

I need to replace the upper radiator house on this car soon. Can I replace the upper hose without draining the coolant?
 
You don't need to drain much from the radiator but use a OE hose and new OE clamps. Do not use Gates, Dayco or other aftermarket and worm clamps. that is asking for problems.
Yep I ordered an OE hose. I figured the existing original clamps could be reused though?
 
Yep I ordered an OE hose. I figured the existing original clamps could be reused though?
Some say spring tension clamps weaken with time, and I'm sure that's possible as all metals can fatigue.

Personally, if they don't "feel" weak I reuse them and just keep an eye on them. My hand dyno may be wildly inaccurate, though. Generally I'd rather have a used spring tension clamp than aftermarket worm drive, if those are my choices.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for the advice! I decided to go ahead and order new clamps and both the upper and lower hoses (all OEM) since they're both original. I'm replacing because the upper hose has signs of leakage at the connection from the engine. Anywho, this will obviously be a full drain & refill on the coolant too with both hoses getting replaced.

Thanks again.
 
Some say spring tension clamps weaken with time, and I'm sure that's possible as all metals can fatigue.

Personally, if they don't "feel" weak I reuse them and just keep an eye on them. My hand dyno may be wildly inaccurate, though. Generally I'd rather have a used spring tension clamp than aftermarket worm drive, if those are my choices.

Your hand dyno (and eyeballs) are likely just fine. I still have the OE spring-style clamps on my '05 Caravan and '08 Charger. They're no worse for wear after many years and miles.
 
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Everyone,

Thanks for the advice! I decided to go ahead and order new clamps and both the upper and lower hoses (all OEM) since they're both original. I'm replacing because the upper hose has signs of leakage at the connection from the engine. Anywho, this will obviously be a full drain & refill on the coolant too with both hoses getting replaced.

Thanks again.
That could be a indicator of a weak clamp or pitting in the aluminum connector at the crossover pipe, clean it good with a small wire brush and use some Hylomar or high tack on the pipe before pushing the hose on and clamping it.
 
That could be a indicator of a weak clamp or pitting in the aluminum connector at the crossover pipe, clean it good with a small wire brush and use some Hylomar or high tack on the pipe before pushing the hose on and clamping it.
Interesting, I hadn't thought to grab any sealant. So after cleaning just apply some Hylomar Blue on the pipe and slide the hose on?
 
That's it. I will not hinder removal in future but insures a good seal, good insurance especially on pitted and plastic fittings that like to leak when the temps drop to the 0f range if a worm or weak clamp is used.
 
That's it. I will not hinder removal in future but insures a good seal, good insurance especially on pitted and plastic fittings that like to leak when the temps drop to the 0f range if a worm or weak clamp is used.
Thanks for the tip. My local store didn’t have any Hylomar, but I picked up Permatex Super High Tack Gasket Sealant. The package says “seals hose connection & rubber, paper, & cork gaskets.” Assuming this is fine?
 
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